P0770: Deciding on repair options

[fourfive]

Update 1: Dropped my pan & saw metal shaving. Will be shopping for a new transmission. See post #35 page 3.
Update 2: Replaced my transmission with new reman transmission from Toyota & symptoms have resolved. See post #53 page 4.

=================================================

Got a pending P0770 last night: Shift Solenoid E malfunction (2002 4runner automatic 4wd)

Symptoms that started 2-3 weeks ago:
1. Decreased power & acceleration
2. Occasional shuddering with acceleration when symptoms first started but hasn't happened the last few hundred miles.
3. Metallic rattling sound that has recently become a duller rattle or rough propeller sound that can be heard at idle or slow acceleration in D, 2, L & R. The rattling might be there at higher speeds but if it is, it is drowned out by engine noise. In P & N the rattling is significantly reduced or gone. Using a mechanic's stethescope the sound seems to be coming from the bell housing but can't say that with confidence because the sound was pretty faint at the time.
4. Normal trans temps until I saw a pending P0770 the last mile on my drive home yesterday. Shortly after seeing the pending code my trans temps seemed about 10-20* hotter than normal.
5. ATF at operating temp was at proper level & color was the usual red.

The FSM says P0770 can be caused by:
-Shift solenoid valve SL is stuck open or closed
-Valve body blocked up or stuck
-Lock-up clutch/torque converter issue

Options I'm considering:
1. Replace all the solenoids (I've read suggestions to replace all solenoids instead of just the faulty one)
Pros: Less vehicle down time
Cons: OEM solenoids are pricey & may not fix the issue.

2. Get a new torque converter & solenoids:
Pros: Less down time due to not going through the FSM troubleshooting procedures & parts can be ordered now to begin the work.
Cons: Will require dropping the transmission, pricey & may not fix the issue.

3. Test solenoids per FSM guidelines & replace if faulty. Test torque converter per FSM guidelines & replace if faulty.
Pros: Repairing only what is needed; More efficient use of $
Cons: Significantly more down time due to dropping the transmission, troubleshooting solenoids & torque converter then having to order and wait on parts.

Ideally I would go with option 3 to fix what is actually needed but since this is my DD I want to minimize the down time. Since the FSM has narrowed P0770 to a few areas, I've considered shotgunning it & replacing the solenoid/solenoids, torque converter or both.

Part # for transmission solenoids (3): Called Toyota parts to confirm
35250-30050
35250-30070
35250-50030

FSM P0770 & solenoid testing procedure:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...ypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/at/cip0770.pdf

FSM torque converter testing procedure:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/at/tccadp/insp.pdf

 

[jgue467]

My '01 thru the 0770 about 4-5 years ago. I reset the ecu and it has not re-appeared since.

On the flip side, thus far, I've not experienced the other symptoms you mention.

I've had the fluid flushed once and I've drain/filled it twice since that in 5 years, clear and red fluid still.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:

 

[Bad Luck]

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] Have you considered doing option #1 first to see if that fixes your issue, then if it doesn't replace your torque converter? Not as scientific as FSM testing.

As far as likely suspects it's hard to say one over the other. The solenoid could be causing the torque converter clutch to not lock up or lock up fully causing the noises, or the torque converter clutch could be so worn that it won't lock up causing the solenoid to not function properly. Kinda like a which came first: the chicken or the egg?

I would do the solenoid before the torque converter in case the solenoid is the problem you don't want to mess up a new torque converter. I hope that makes sense.

 

[fourfive]

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] Have you considered doing option #1 first to see if that fixes your issue, then if it doesn't replace your torque converter? Not as scientific as FSM testing.

As far as likely suspects it's hard to say one over the other. The solenoid could be causing the torque converter clutch to not lock up or lock up fully causing the noises, or the torque converter clutch could be so worn that it won't lock up causing the solenoid to not function properly. Kinda like a which came first: the chicken or the egg?

I would do the solenoid before the torque converter in case the solenoid is the problem you don't want to mess up a new torque converter. I hope that makes sense.

I agree with your logic & was thinking similarly, you just happened to articulate it better than me lol. I was kinda leaning towards just replacing all the solenoids too & then praying it works because time is going to be really limited soon with a 2nd kid due in January.

Anyone already have part numbers to the solenoids (I think 5 total) for 01-02 4runners? If not I'll post them up once I find them.

 

[jgue467]

Do a search on this forum. I recall someone posting a how to (for all the solenoids), step by step with lots of pics. Should make it a breeze. Pethaps someone remembers who that member was.

Then again, I'm sure youtube has some how to's not to mention Timmy....

Luck. :cowboy:

 

[Riceye]

Anyone already have part numbers to the solenoids (I think 5 total) for 01-02 4runners? If not I'll post them up once I find them.

Looks like three. Two shift and one lock-up.

rockauto.com Rostra kit

There is an installation instruction sheet link on this page to read. Pretty basic stuff that I'll never need with a five speed.

 

[JMat]

Do a search on this forum. I recall someone posting a how to (for all the solenoids), step by step with lots of pics. Should make it a breeze. Pethaps someone remembers who that member was.

Then again, I'm sure youtube has some how to's not to mention Timmy....

Luck. :cowboy:

[MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] I believe did a write up on it or at the very least commented on replacing them. He picked his up on Amazon.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

Got a pending P0770 last night: Shift Solenoid E malfunction (2002 4runner automatic 4wd)

Symptoms that started 2-3 weeks ago:
1. Decreased power & acceleration
2. Occasional shuddering with acceleration when symptoms first started but hasn't happened the last few hundred miles.
3. Metallic rattling sound that has recently become a duller rattle or rough propeller sound that can be heard at idle or slow acceleration in D, 2, L & R. The rattling might be there at higher speeds but if it is, it is drowned out by engine noise. In P & N the rattling is significantly reduced or gone. Using a mechanic's stethescope the sound seems to be coming from the bell housing but can't say that with confidence because the sound was pretty faint at the time.
4. Normal trans temps until I saw a pending P0770 the last mile on my drive home yesterday. Shortly after seeing the pending code my trans temps seemed about 10-20* hotter than normal.

The FSM says P0770 can be caused by:
-Shift solenoid valve SL is stuck open or closed
-Valve body blocked up or stuck
-Lock-up clutch/torque converter issue

Options I'm considering:
1. Replace all the solenoids (I've read suggestions to replace all solenoids instead of just the faulty one)
Pros: Less vehicle down time
Cons: OEM solenoids are pricey & may not fix the issue.

2. Get a new torque converter & solenoids:
Pros: Less down time due to not going through the FSM troubleshooting procedures & parts can be ordered now to begin the work.
Cons: Will require dropping the transmission, pricey & may not fix the issue.

3. Test solenoids per FSM guidelines & replace if faulty. Test torque converter per FSM guidelines & replace if faulty.
Pros: Repairing only what is needed; More efficient use of $
Cons: Significantly more down time due to dropping the transmission, troubleshooting solenoids & torque converter then having to order and wait on parts.

Ideally I would go with option 3 to fix what is actually needed but since this is my DD I want to minimize the down time. Since the FSM has narrowed P0770 to a few areas, I've considered shotgunning it & replacing the solenoid/solenoids, torque converter or both. Any symptoms that point to the torque converter over the solenoids?

FSM P0770 & solenoid testing procedure:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...ypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/at/cip0770.pdf

FSM torque converter testing procedure:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/at/tccadp/insp.pdf

Practically speaking, you could buy a good used trans, swap them out then take your time fixing your current one. Minimal downtime and you end up with a spare trans or a whole bunch of parts you know are good.

 

[jbtvt]

Practically speaking, you could buy a good used trans, swap them out then take your time fixing your current one. Minimal downtime and you end up with a spare trans or a whole bunch of parts you know are good.

My vote, already have a backup for my DD. What about that blocked valve body? When was the last time you changed/flushed your fluid? That'd be the cheapest easiest fix of all. Know nothing about this code but if dirty fluid can cause blockage in this body then worth a shot.

Heard of solenoids going before but can't really see how, pretty simple, generally durable design, unlike a TC. Cleaned some that were filthy on VVTi and solenoid itself was still fine

 

[brillo_76]

That noise or rattle that less in N or P sounds like a TC to me. I have a rig that has a damaged TC in it. Also takes more rpm to move. Mine whines and it quite noticeable. I only move it from time to time and dont drive it at all.

Might be best like the others suggested and pull a good use one and see what's going on with the original. That way you're rolling with less downtime.

Unless you can exactly pinpoint the issue without a doubt.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[negusm]

Anyone got the TOYOTA part numbers for the solenoids? I am going to drop the pan and do a flush soon. May as well replace the solenoids. This is my DD too...so no afterrmarket junk if I can help it.

Also...my tranny sometimes doesn't like to shift into reverse. I mean physically the shifter will go there then the car doesn't want to back up much. If I go to D and back to R...we're all good to go.

I've gotten in the habit to never shift it from P to R without first going to D. Been doing it for a few years now...is that an issue of the solenoids? Worse?

-Mike

 

[fourfive]

Part numbers for transmission solenoids: 3 total

35250-30050
35250-30070
35250-50030 (most expensive)

Called online toyota parts to confirm part numbers.

 

[fourfive]

My vote, already have a backup for my DD. What about that blocked valve body? When was the last time you changed/flushed your fluid? That'd be the cheapest easiest fix of all. Know nothing about this code but if dirty fluid can cause blockage in this body then worth a shot.

Heard of solenoids going before but can't really see how, pretty simple, generally durable design, unlike a TC. Cleaned some that were filthy on VVTi and solenoid itself was still fine

I've actually been researching how to determine if the valve body is bad. Suggestions on that are welcomed. I've never flushed the transmission since I've owned it but I do a drain/fill every other oil change. I dropped the pan and replaced the filter about 60,000 miles ago.

 

[negusm]

Part numbers for transmission solenoids: 3 total

35250-30050 (most expensive)
35250-30070
35250-50030

Called online toyota parts to confirm part numbers.

uhhh....the last one is the most expensive.

35250-30050 = $76.36
35250-30070 = $76.36
35250-50030 = $218.61

Total = $371.33.

Pulled prices from here:
Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

-Mike

 

[negusm]

OK, I can verify that those seem to be the right numbers. I checked Partsouq.com with my vin off my 2002.

I couldn't find them before since the diagram for them is in the ELECTRONICS diagram section and not the DRIVE TRAIN page.

-Mike

 

[fourfive]

uhhh....the last one is the most expensive.

35250-30050 = $76.36
35250-30070 = $76.36
35250-50030 = $218.61

Total = $371.33.

Pulled prices from here:
Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online

-Mike

Thanks for catching that. I corrected my post.

 

[brillo_76]

So your gameplan is to change the solenoids and 1 gallon of fluid and see how it does?

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Prime30668]

Losing Power and Stalling

I keep having an issue with my 99 Sr5 where I’m losing power and it will stall randomly. It started hesitanting a little a few weeks before it became undrivable. I noticed just a little hesitation and figured I had some bad gas and I filled it up twice after it started. It then almost act as if it had a misfire and stalled twice on my way home one day. No CELs, it then became undrivable after. Stalling probably every 25-30 seconds after a startup(only after it was warmed up and in the middle of town) and it would lose all power going up slight inclines if I was doing 35-40 going up a small hill, I’d be doing 5-10 when I got to the top. It also had a “popping” noise that seemed to be coming from the air box area(really just the front passenger side) it is just so hard to tell whenever the popping only happened for a few minutes and hasn’t since. That all happened about a month or 2 ago and I’ve been trying to figure it out since. I’ve checked the MAF and it seems good, I had just changed plugs and wires a few months before, I’ve been told it was fuel pump, clogged cat, burnt valve. I just want to know where to start looking and if anyone else has had this issue. It also will idle fine for as long as you leave it running until you drive it over 40+ I’ve driven it down my road doing 25-30 and it’ll be fine until I go faster

 

[negusm]

I’ve been told it was fuel pump, clogged cat, burnt valve. I just want to know where to start looking and if anyone else has had this issue. It also will idle fine for as long as you leave it running until you drive it over 40+ I’ve driven it down my road doing 25-30 and it’ll be fine until I go faster

I'm calling the fuel pump. Everything else would probably cause a CEL? Also...why'd you post in a transmission thread?

 

[JMat]

I'm calling the fuel pump. Everything else would probably cause a CEL? Also...why'd you post in a transmission thread?

I'd say fuel pump as well.