p2440, That f'ing pump!!!!!!

[WillK]

OP- Sorry to hijack your thread...

I've been reading up on bypass options and found the one on Tundra Solutions.
Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass

Has anyone tried this?

Has anyone tried another bypass method??

I think I might be having the beginning of the pump failure and really don't want to take on changing the pump,but instead trying the bypass method.

Any advice would be helpful!

 

[slyfox75]

WillK
I did the relay version of the AIP bypass(not the one Paul makes for a few hundred bucks). It's pretty easy to do and takes less than an hour for a first timer. Not sure where you live but the pump won't come on unless air temp is over 41F......so if your in a cold climate, and park outside your "safe" until spring

Hokie, not sure why you are having issues on COLD days, should be the opposite(issues on warmer mornings????).

The relay mod actually tricks the ECU into thinking its 18F during the second or so the starter is engaged, so the pump does NOT come on. Do you have a link to where Paul talks about issues at low temps?? I haven't seen that and I personally have had no issues since Feb 13 when I installed mine. I would like to learn or understand it. Is it something with his solid state module or the Toyota ECU itself???

 

[txclimber]

RC: nice link. I found that one this morning too and have been reading up on it. Doesn't look too bad, just time consuming.

For those interested, here is a link to the GM part number for the pump. 1/10th of the cost.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/270178-gm-secondary-air-pump-replace-tundras/

Typically, I'm all for keeping my Toyota a Toyota, but for $1000, I'll pass. Besides, the whole point of all that is for reliability and it seems like toyota mailed it in on this one.

I've read up on the bypass/delete and I think it is a brilliant idea to scrap an troublesome and essentially useless part. However, the way I understand it, it is best used as a preventative measure, before the part(s) fail. Or it can be used for those who are "lucky" enough to have the valve(s) fail in the closed position.

My luck being what it is, the valve is stuck in the open position, hence the p2440. Not only does this put the truck into "limp" mode (the closed position one just throws codes), it can be hazardous (highly unlikely) because with it constantly blowing it can increase exhaust temps.

I'm all for modding and making improvements, but I like to start from a point where everything is actually working. Because of this, and the fact mine is stuck open, not closed, I will make that actual repair.

However, there's no way in hell I'm paying stealership prices. And there's no way I will buy that damn Toyota pump. I'll do the job myself and get the GM pump. I'm hoping that I can extract whatever is keeping the valve open and not have to buy the Toyota valves. They are $500 and $200.

Shit luck, being as it is, things always happen at the worst times. My newborn son is at the NICU in the hospital, so I'm facing a challenge fitting this job in. Stay tuned and I'll update you all as I get into it. Hoping to get started in the next couple of days.

Thank you all for the pdf's and helpful links. Keep 'em coming if anybody has anymore advice, I'm listening.....

 

[WillK]

Hey man, sorry to hear about your son. Hope everything turns out okay for him and your family.

 

[HokieRunner]

WillK
I did the relay version of the AIP bypass(not the one Paul makes for a few hundred bucks). It's pretty easy to do and takes less than an hour for a first timer. Not sure where you live but the pump won't come on unless air temp is over 41F......so if your in a cold climate, and park outside your "safe" until spring

Hokie, not sure why you are having issues on COLD days, should be the opposite(issues on warmer mornings????).

The relay mod actually tricks the ECU into thinking its 18F during the second or so the starter is engaged, so the pump does NOT come on. Do you have a link to where Paul talks about issues at low temps?? I haven't seen that and I personally have had no issues since Feb 13 when I installed mine. I would like to learn or understand it. Is it something with his solid state module or the Toyota ECU itself???

Sly, I've been discussing the issue with Paul over email. I'm intimately familiar with exactly how the module and bypass work and this is just a unique/rare issue. I need to run the diagnostics to ensure the module is properly functioning but the AIP has not run (I haven't heard it) since installing the bypass. The 2445 code has only shown up twice (weeks and hundreds of miles apart) and didn't pop up until after I'd been driving 20 mins or so

Once it warms up a bit and I can hook up my multimeter I'll see where I'm at. I don't have more details on the cold affecting the bypass except that Paul has seen the issue mostly with sequoias and is actively working on an update. I've also seen threads where folks have done the bypass etc and they'll get a p2445 code later on at random intervals. I was unable to find a resolved situation on this more rare issue. I'll update as new information is available.

 

[HokieRunner]

Shit luck, being as it is, things always happen at the worst times. My newborn son is at the NICU in the hospital, so I'm facing a challenge fitting this job in....

Sorry to hear this. You're definitely in my thoughts and I hope for the best. If I find anything else I'll send it your way.

 

[slyfox75]

Gah when it rains it pours right!! I hope he comes out with flying colors....my son is 2 and damn I love that lil terd

Hokie, thanks for the update. I haven't been actively involved really since I did mine last year(2005 4Runner) and no issues. Mine was a failing pump but not yet completely gone so the bypass has worked great(knock on wood).

 

[txclimber]

Well, had a turn of luck yesterday. Warmer day, cleared the code on my 4runner, and the damn thing ran perfectly. No whooshing sound, no p2440, no limp mode. Can't explain it. Maybe the valves were frozen open, maybe if a bit of plastic or trash was holding it open it got blown out. I don't know. But I do know I don't trust it.

So, I'm taking advantage of this window of opportunity and using Slyfox75's relay. Also, because I had the stuck open DTC I'm going to take the extra step and install the block off plates as well, just for good measure. Got the parts on the way. Installing these should take no time. I'll add pics of those installs here.

Also, big thanks to those who expressed concern for my boy. It's been a roller coaster. He was born over 2 months early and we've been in the hospital for 40 days now. Things are looking good though. He's growing and getting stronger, and we hope to have him home in the next couple of weeks.

 

[txclimber]

Ok...I'm all fixed up. Here are some pics detailing the process. This may encourage some folks to take on this themselves.

Special thanks to Slyfox75 for getting the relay to me quickly with very detailed instructions.

 

[txclimber]

I decided to install the block off plates first. I hit the threads with a preemptive squirt of PB Blaster just in case.

I tried reaching the area from above and below, neither of which seemed possible unless you're Plastic Man. However, if you remove the little flap and go through the wheel well it's pretty easy.

The junction is seen here, in the center of the photo:

 

[txclimber]

Yeah, that's it lurking in the shadows back there. It is the joint where the tubes coming from the air injection pump go into the exhaust manifold. 2 10mm nuts need to be unscrewed most of the way, but do not completely remove.

I found a wrench to be the best tool. A ratchet really wouldn't fit for me. Once I broke the nut free, I did most of the unscrewing with a ratcheting wrench which sped things up.

Once the nuts were loose and there was enough space to fit the plate in, I used an old pry bar from the top to create space between the tube and the manifold. The tube will flex enough to accomplish this. NOTE: Make sure the thin "gasket" stays on the manifold side.

Here's my pry bar placement:

 

[txclimber]

Here is the plate installed on drivers side. It is the lighter silver colored plate between the brass colored flanges.



Tighten up those nuts and head on over to the passenger side.

 

[txclimber]

I found the passenger side to be little roomier and easier. My pry bar trick wouldn't work on this side though. I had to use a screwdriver near the work area. This meant both hands had to be in a small space, but it really wasn't too tricky.

Here is the screwdriver placement and the gap shown where the plate will go.

 

[txclimber]

Install the passenger side plate, tighten everything up and you're done with the block off plates.

Next comes the relay bypass, which is amazingly easy to install.

First, remove the purple starter relay:

 

[txclimber]

Slip the black and red wire from the relay gizmo into the #1 and #2 slots of the starter relay socket. Replace starter relay, with wires still in there:

 

[txclimber]

Run the long wire along the firewall over to the MAF. Snip the black and yellow wire and but one end into each of the wires with the really neat wire connectors that are included. Those are the red things on the end of the wires in this photo:

 

[txclimber]

Tape everything back up. Clean up and that's it. Really is that simple.


Disclaimer: This mod is for off road use only. Don't want to get the feds mad at you for bypassing their emissions gadgets. Even if they are incredibly poorly designed, difficult to get to, outrageously over-priced, next to useless gadgets.

So far everything runs great. No codes, no whooshing sound, and no limp mode. Weather is predicting a cold icy day later this week. Those are the conditions in which I first had problems so it should be a good test to make sure everything is working...or rather not working.

 

[HokieRunner]

Tape everything back up. Clean up and that's it. Really is that simple.


Disclaimer: This mod is for off road use only. Don't want to get the feds mad at you for bypassing their emissions gadgets. Even if they are incredibly poorly designed, difficult to get to, outrageously over-priced, next to useless gadgets.

So far everything runs great. No codes, no whooshing sound, and no limp mode. Weather is predicting a cold icy day later this week. Those are the conditions in which I first had problems so it should be a good test to make sure everything is working...or rather not working.

Great job txclimber! Glad you were able to get it all patched up. Nice pics on the block off plates - you either have a better camera or a steadier hand than me as the pics I took were terrible. Hopefully it's a permanent fix for you.

 

[WillK]

Glad you got it done, txclimber. I'm trying to decide if I'm going to bite the bullet and do this as a preventative thing as I have the swoosh already.

Thanks for the write up, too. Makes me more comfortable with it.

BTW, I hope your son is doing better.

 

[Atlanta_man]

I've heard from "a friend" that the fix works good for eliminating the codes. Except now... the autocrank function has to turn the engine over for several seconds before the truck starts. It used to start instantly before fix. Now it takes 4 or 5 seconds which seems like an eternity compared to pre-fix starts.