Parking Brake Adjustment advice?

[CarlosV]

Parking brake pedal adjustment

On my 2003 4R 2WD the parking brake pedal needs to be push all the way to barely hold the SUV. Trying if not stronger at least to make pedal travel shorter .
When should the adjustment be done in the console and when on the back wheels?
Can adjustment (instead of the console) be done at the brake pedal where there is a very easy access adjustment nut ?
Thanks Guys

 

[Montego Murph]

On my 2003 4R 2WD the parking brake pedal needs to be push all the way to barely hold the SUV. Trying if not stronger at least to make pedal travel shorter .
When should the adjustment be done in the console and when on the back wheels?
Can adjustment (instead of the console) be done at the brake pedal where there is a very easy access adjustment nut ?
Thanks Guys

Adjustment should start at the rear wheels to make sure the shoes are in the proper location. If they're out of whack, it's possible that it won't get any better adjusting the other cables.

Mine were the same as you describe. I compressed the disc brake pistons, turned the star wheels according to the manual, and it holds great.

 

[AuSeeker]

On my 2003 4R 2WD the parking brake pedal needs to be push all the way to barely hold the SUV. Trying if not stronger at least to make pedal travel shorter .
When should the adjustment be done in the console and when on the back wheels?
Can adjustment (instead of the console) be done at the brake pedal where there is a very easy access adjustment nut ?
Thanks Guys

Adjustment should start at the rear wheels to make sure the shoes are in the proper location. If they're out of whack, it's possible that it won't get any better adjusting the other cables.

Mine were the same as you describe. I compressed the disc brake pistons, turned the star wheels according to the manual, and it holds great.

As Montego Murph mentioned the adjustment at the wheel is where you should start to make sure the parking brake shoes are in the proper position first, and then go to the other adjustments, I would go to the console next even though it a pain because you have to remove the console to gain access to the adjustments and then if still needed to the pedal.

The reason you have 2 cable adjustment points is because you have 2 cables, one from the pedal to the console and one from the console to the rear, which cable to adjust really comes down to which cable has stretched the most.

 

[nevada]

its good to remember, they are now known as a parking brake. no longer are they considered an emergency brake.
they just do not have the holding power they used to have.

 

[CarlosV]

Adjustment should start at the rear wheels to make sure the shoes are in the proper location. If they're out of whack, it's possible that it won't get any better adjusting the other cables.

Mine were the same as you describe. I compressed the disc brake pistons, turned the star wheels according to the manual, and it holds great.

Thanks MM. This is a 24K miles 4R, I am going to assume brakes at the wheel are OK and try at the pedal. Thanks for th info

 

[CarlosV]

As Montego Murph mentioned the adjustment at the wheel is where you should start to make sure the parking brake shoes are in the proper position first, and then go to the other adjustments, I would go to the console next even though it a pain because you have to remove the console to gain access to the adjustments and then if still needed to the pedal.

The reason you have 2 cable adjustment points is because you have 2 cables, one from the pedal to the console and one from the console to the rear, which cable to adjust really comes down to which cable has stretched the most.

Understood, great info. Thanks Auseeker. Why would you go first to the console than the pedal, being more difficult? Longer cable most likely elongated?

 

[AuSeeker]

Understood, great info. Thanks Auseeker. Why would you go first to the console than the pedal, being more difficult? Longer cable most likely elongated?

Yes the longest cable is more likely to be stretched more.

 

[03V8Limited4Runner]

I am new to the page and suck at tech, so I need to ask for HELP. I know this post is old, but thought I'd try.
I have an 03 4Runner V8 Limited and I freaking LOVE IT. I got it used 2 years ago (230 000kms) and it's been freaking awesome! BUT!! The emergency brake shoes seized up and I couldn't get the truck to move (had the e-brake on while parked on a hilly part of the driveway for a few weeks, seriously, that's it). My dad has rebuilt engines and does everything for all of our family cars (except bodywork), and he has been LOSING IT on this ridiculous e-brake system... So, we replaced the shoes (pads were literally STUCK in the rotors) so we replaced those, then all 3 cables, and now the rotors... And we have had the wheels on and off more than I can say, (and the shoes on and off trying to troubleshoot) and we've tightened EVERYTHING sooo many times.... We have adjusted the shit out of these up and down, at the star on the e-brakes, under the console, and at the pedal. We can't get the balance where the wheels will spin in neutral, but the e-brakes will stop the car when in motion. And before I changed the rotors today, (but had done everything else), we removed the old rotors (for the 40th time) and the e-brake had obviously been catching somewhat, because the new e-brake pads had created a shit-ton of dust all in them and look scratched, but still wouldn't stop the wheel when in motion. So new rotors, re-adjusting, and the truck still rolls when the e-brake is on. I think it's making him crazy, and I've been there for a while. If you have any ideas on how to set this thing, I'd love to try them. THANK YOU!!

 

[G8rb8t]

Working through this today. It appears I had it too tight and was getting a brake smell in the test drive...

Going with the tighten (adjust up) until you can't spin it by hand with caliper piston compressed and then 3-4 clicks down to release.

 

[JackDuggan]

E-brake

I am new to the page and suck at tech, so I need to ask for HELP. I know this post is old, but thought I'd try.
I have an 03 4Runner V8 Limited and I freaking LOVE IT. I got it used 2 years ago (230 000kms) and it's been freaking awesome! BUT!! The emergency brake shoes seized up and I couldn't get the truck to move (had the e-brake on while parked on a hilly part of the driveway for a few weeks, seriously, that's it). My dad has rebuilt engines and does everything for all of our family cars (except bodywork), and he has been LOSING IT on this ridiculous e-brake system... So, we replaced the shoes (pads were literally STUCK in the rotors) so we replaced those, then all 3 cables, and now the rotors... And we have had the wheels on and off more than I can say, (and the shoes on and off trying to troubleshoot) and we've tightened EVERYTHING sooo many times.... We have adjusted the shit out of these up and down, at the star on the e-brakes, under the console, and at the pedal. We can't get the balance where the wheels will spin in neutral, but the e-brakes will stop the car when in motion. And before I changed the rotors today, (but had done everything else), we removed the old rotors (for the 40th time) and the e-brake had obviously been catching somewhat, because the new e-brake pads had created a shit-ton of dust all in them and look scratched, but still wouldn't stop the wheel when in motion. So new rotors, re-adjusting, and the truck still rolls when the e-brake is on. I think it's making him crazy, and I've been there for a while. If you have any ideas on how to set this thing, I'd love to try them. THANK YOU!!

I just changed my rear brakes. The E-brake worked OK but not great before, but after the new rotors, calipers and pads it wasn't holding at all. I took the wheels off and tightened until the rotor wouldn't turn, then I just eased off it a little. Now it works a little better than before. I just wanted it to hold on my driveway as I hate to leave a car holding on the Park pawl on a hill.

I think when I first reassembled it I just left them too loose. The second time I compressed the caliper so I wouldn't have any interference from the disc pads when turning it. Then I tightened it until it wouldn't turn, then backed off as little as I could.

I had some experience with this type of E-brake because the BMW 318ti I have uses the same system.

 

[jjpye]

I'm having an issue with my parking brakes too. Took her into the mechanic who said the cables were all seized and to replace them would be about $1000 cad with labor as you have to drop the fuel tank.

Does anybody have any advice or could point me in the right direction for a write up for this, please?