Parts you should have replaced with the timing belt

[mtbtim]

In case the OP has a change of heart and wants to do his own wrenching for this job and for anyone else finding this thread doing research for the timing belt job, here's a couple videos [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made that show how to replace the whole ball of wax. When it gets to the time to putting the timing belt on, disregard what we show in Part 1 and use the technique we showcase in Part 2. Also, read the video descriptions for additional information and helpful tips.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Dan.3]

In case the OP has a change of heart and wants to do his own wrenching for this job and for anyone else finding this thread doing research for the timing belt job, here's a couple videos [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made that show how to replace the whole ball of wax. When it gets to the time to putting the timing belt on, disregard what we show in Part 1 and use the technique we showcase in Part 2. Also, read the video descriptions for additional information and helpful tips.

Thanks for the info but I have actually replaced the timing belt and water pump on the 3.4 before. However I did it while I had it on an engine stand before I dropped it into my first gen when I did the 3.4 swap. I can replace it. I just dont want to do the work. At this point I'd just rather pay someone else.

 

[Kelevra]

Are ya'll changing your fan pully bracket (false waterpump), as well? Seems like the better move.

 

[nobb]

Yes, absolutely change out all the seals and pulleys while you are at it. These are 20 year old trucks and the seals are likely from factory. Every timing belt job I've done, the bearings on the idlers did not feel "fresh". Fan bracket bearing I would say is optional because the bearing on that is pretty beefy and should make alot of noise before failing. It's also relatively easy to access and you can get a sense of if it's in good condition by rotating the shaft and seeing if it still feels smooth.

 

[4Runnermex]

Are those pics a result of a seized water pump or idler?



Unfortunately, the dealer will not order from aircabinman. Per the forum majority we should all replace the timing belt every 90k or every 6 years or whatever the time limit is. Yet its been 19 years and 206k miles and here we are, still all original factory parts. Just trying to find out how far people have pushed their machines. Obviously, it not necessary to swap everything out every 90k miles as most of you believe. So it raises the question is it necessary to swap out the idlers at 200K?



Ill probably cough up the extra 400 to have the pulleys replaced as well by the dealer too. I dont care to the the guinea pig and find out to see what happens. I was just asking if anyone has skipped replacing the pulleys and has well over 200k with the orginals.

Pump and it ate up the idler so don’t chance it man.


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[I'mStock]

Listen to EVERYONE here, do it right. If you or your mechanic is going to have everything torn apart to the point where it would cost about the same in labor to go back and replace something you skimped on, aren't you gonna feel stupid?

Cheap people doing cheap things usually end up in regret.

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks for the info but I have actually replaced the timing belt and water pump on the 3.4 before. However I did it while I had it on an engine stand before I dropped it into my first gen when I did the 3.4 swap. I can replace it. I just dont want to do the work. At this point I'd just rather pay someone else.

Do you still have the 1st Gen? If so, it would be cool to see some pics.

 

[TheDurk]

If you read the TB mega-thread on Yotatech it is clear that the timing belts almost never fail on their own. Coolant leaks from the WP, or seized idlers or WPs are the usual culprits.

I made the decision to wait until 120k and then replace belt, idlers, and tensioner. I bought the seals but they looked tight so I left them.

Only 30k to go until 240k, and I will do the same again, plus the seals, no matter how they look.

You can all do you what you want, but this works for me. I just couldn't drive longer than 120k thinking about a leaking water pump. That DOES happen.

I may leave the tensioner until 360k since it was new at 120k. They rarely fail.

 

[Dan.3]

Do you still have the 1st Gen? If so, it would be cool to see some pics.

This is one of the last pics I have. Thought I wanted to go a different direction and I traded it back in 2010 for 94 fzj80 with dual lockers. Wasnt feeling the 80 and I switched jobs and company car was gone so I sold it and picked up my 3rd gen instead for a DD and hitting the trails once in a blue moon.

Looking back I probably should have kept one or the other. But now Im thinking of picking up a new DD, keeping the 3rd gen and throwing a radius arm SAS under it or getting a uzj100 and do a radius arm SAS under that.

I need a little more room in my back seats. 3 carseats is a really tight fit.