Still code free. I'd say the gauge cluster circuit board for sure was the fix.
In other updates:
Starter contacts have been replaced. The starter that was on there was a Denso reman from some years ago (not sure exactly, I'd have to check the maintenance log). I was able to get the starter out through the wheel well opening. I used some brake clean to clean it and it stripped the paint of the motor. Oops. So, the motor body has been repainted black.
Steering rack, inner and outer tie rods replaced. All OEM parts. The rack was leaking and original. The outer tie rods are also probably original. During the 4WD swap there was some thread damage done to one of them, so it was time. I had to transfer over my poly rack bushings, which turned out to be pretty easy off the truck.
And the fun part... Suspension time! I have had a set of '14 4Runner springs for at least a year sitting in the garage, along with some Bilstein 5100's for a few months, just sitting there taunting me...
First, I found what I think is the cause of the clunk/pop in the front that I was getting recently:
Disconnect your Addco front bar if you go wheeling...
So, let's get on with it... For the front, my goal is/was to get as much out of the stock front arms as possible. I took some extra time to do this with the front. I figure (and I could be wrong!) that I should go with the softest front springs possible, which ended up being my stock front ('99 2WD springs), maybe. Some measurements:
'97 4WD springs: 16mm wire, 9 wraps
'14 4WD springs: 17mm wire, 9 wraps
'99 2WD springs: 16mm wire, 8 wraps
I didn't get free-length measurements, but probably should have. The 2WD springs barely have to be compressed to fit in the shocks, so I figured they would be more 'progressive' because they aren't pre-loaded as much. I had a couple different top plate spacers (1/4" and 3/8") to mix and match to get the extended length of the shocks to match the max droop of the upper arm (stock, droop is limited by the upper ball joint without the shock in place).
Turns out, with 4Runner 5100's (and the 4600's they replaced) that a 3/8" top plate spacer is all you can fit before the upper ball joint is the limiting factor. The shocks are about 1/4" shorter than full droop, so that pretty much maxes that out. I checked full compression of the shocks and the shock shaft has a little less than 1/2" compression when the truck weight is on the bump stop with no springs:
So, with upper arms, you might be able to get another 1/2" to 3/4" of wheel travel before shock damage occurs with 'stock' length shocks. As it stands, hub center to wheel well measurements after all was said and done:
Full extension: 25.25"
Full compression: 16.75"
At ride height: 21.25"
I only 'lifted' the front a little over an inch from stock. That is a 3/8" top plate spacer and the 5100's on the second perch and using springs meant for a 2WD 4Runner. Out of the 8.5" of travel available, I currently have 4" of droop and 4.5" of compression. I was a bit surprised when I first measured the new ride height (~22"), but I realized I forgot to put my front armor back on for that measurement. Back on, it dropped that much!
Installed:
Oh, and somehow one of my lower bolts decided to gall. I have no idea why, no rust or anything... Had to cut it off. At least I have extras laying around from the parts truck.
On to the rear. The plan was to stiffen it and lift it with '14 4Runner rear springs and 10mm trim packers. Spring measurements and pics:
'99 2WD rear: 13mm wire, 6.5 wraps
'14 4WD rear: 16.25mm wire, 6.25 wraps
That makes the 5th gen springs MUCH stiffer than the stock springs. This is a good thing - the 5100's are valved for stiffer springs and the stock springs are WAYYY too soft. I ended up at 22" in the rear, which is right where I wanted to be.
Rear shock install 'secret' is to use an offset wrench for the nut and a hex/allen driver on a ratchet. It still takes a while, sadly:
And, the before and after comparison:
Overall, very subtle. I've only done a quick shake-down run since I only did a quick eyeball alignment. The front rear balance is opposite what it used to be. The front is pretty plush and the rear is (so far) nicely stiff. I'm not 100% happy with the fit of the 5th gen rear springs (too large diameter top and bottom, though they do fit) so I will probably change over to OME 906's in the rear, which should have the same ride height with the trim packer removed.
I also installed some front swaybar disconnects from JKS, meant for a Jeep XJ (I think). It wasn't at all bolt-in and I'll do a write up if they turn out to work well...
Ok, that's it for the wall of pics/text.
-Charlie
