Photo Timeline of my 4Runner {LOTS OF PICS}
- Thread starter LINY4Runner
- Start date
fightman80
New member
Do yourself a favor, and get rid of it. I'll take it off your hands for you if you like
Seriously though... shitty about the shifter.... but you guys will figure out the problem soon enough!
You got this far didn't you!
downpour11
New member
Nice Bryan! Lemme know how it drives!
4Running Daily
New member
It looks REALLY tall. How much will it settle?
LINY4Runner
New member
Made some progress today;
Exhaust is patched together complete with the O2 sensor bung. Power steering return line is in and I started the engine for the first time in 3 months. LOTS of lights that have to get dealt with, but there's still a bunch that is unplugged...just wanted to make sure we didn't fry anything with all that welding.
Case is out, pulleys swapped and all that jazz. Took the tail housing off the tranny so I can take it to work and press out the old bearing and seal and press in the new seal. Tail housing and case go in for good tomorrow.
Rear shaft is gonna fit!! Absolute jackpot!
Frame height is 23" dead right in front of the rear lower link bracket and 23 3/4" right in front of the front lower link bracket...the front has to come down at least an inch and it'll be EXACTLY where I want it!
here's a few more pitchas...
baby flex shot; wayy more flex than I had with IFS and there was still about 3.5" of shaft showing...need a taller jack...
Power steering lines in for good- areoquip fittings and hose for the pressure side for that bling factor, and the OE fittings and some regular hose for the return
ghetto fab exhaust complete with booger welds and BFH mod to clearance the transfer case
they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, right [MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION]? I think Dan was browsing the 00 Runner build when he made this strut tower bar...
Exhaust is patched together complete with the O2 sensor bung. Power steering return line is in and I started the engine for the first time in 3 months. LOTS of lights that have to get dealt with, but there's still a bunch that is unplugged...just wanted to make sure we didn't fry anything with all that welding.
Case is out, pulleys swapped and all that jazz. Took the tail housing off the tranny so I can take it to work and press out the old bearing and seal and press in the new seal. Tail housing and case go in for good tomorrow.
Rear shaft is gonna fit!! Absolute jackpot!
Frame height is 23" dead right in front of the rear lower link bracket and 23 3/4" right in front of the front lower link bracket...the front has to come down at least an inch and it'll be EXACTLY where I want it!
here's a few more pitchas...
baby flex shot; wayy more flex than I had with IFS and there was still about 3.5" of shaft showing...need a taller jack...
Power steering lines in for good- areoquip fittings and hose for the pressure side for that bling factor, and the OE fittings and some regular hose for the return
ghetto fab exhaust complete with booger welds and BFH mod to clearance the transfer case
they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, right [MENTION=17736]AddictedOffroad[/MENTION]? I think Dan was browsing the 00 Runner build when he made this strut tower bar...
LINY4Runner
New member
It is pretty tall right now...but not terrible...close to 24" frame height at the front...gonna bring it down to around 23", my target frame height, plus the springs will settle a bit as they break in.
It's a SAS 4Runner though so it's gotta be tall in order for it to work, but it'll be no bigger than Scotty's
AddictedOffroad
New member
Looks good. FWIW, I was a 22.5" on 37s.
Just one thing I noticed. The front upper link mount has a lot of leverage. You welded it to a 3/16" wall axle tube. Gusset it more or you will rip it off.
LINY4Runner
New member
WOW it dropped down to 22.5"? Okay so I may be slightly taller...hopefully around 23" which is think is absolutely possible
thanks for the tip- I'll reinforce the back side of it too!
downpour11
New member
Your body lift is just making it look taller than it really is. You can also look in my build thread and find the pics when I first put it on it's own weight. That is 23" frame height with 37's. Very do-able. We both have a lot of cutting to do though lol. I'm gonna have to hack up my ODL bumper a little bit.
LINY4Runner
New member
I honestly think the only thing I need to do in terms of cutting is to relocate the washer bottle
LINY4Runner
New member
By the way, transfer case is in for good, along with the rear driveshaft and crossmember!
Brakes and hubs next...
Brakes and hubs next...
LINY4Runner
New member
added to the first post:
=SPECIFICATIONS=
Wheelbase- 106"
Frame Height- 23.5"
Approach Angle- 51°
Departure Angle- 43°
Ground Clearance (lowest point)- 11.5" (front differential)
Ground Clearance (center of truck)- 19.5" (center crossmember)
Lift Height (ground to fender)(front/rear)- 43"/43.5"
RTI Score- TBD
=SPECIFICATIONS=
Wheelbase- 106"
Frame Height- 23.5"
Approach Angle- 51°
Departure Angle- 43°
Ground Clearance (lowest point)- 11.5" (front differential)
Ground Clearance (center of truck)- 19.5" (center crossmember)
Lift Height (ground to fender)(front/rear)- 43"/43.5"
RTI Score- TBD
LINY4Runner
New member
Got the brakes all finished up, just need to be bled
ABS/VSC/TRAC permanent disable
and I lowered it a good inch and a half in the front...still just SLIGHTLY higher in the front but I'm happy with it. Front can't go any lower so I may do those 10mm spacers in the rear to level it out.
Here's some more standing pics...
ABS/VSC/TRAC permanent disable
and I lowered it a good inch and a half in the front...still just SLIGHTLY higher in the front but I'm happy with it. Front can't go any lower so I may do those 10mm spacers in the rear to level it out.
Here's some more standing pics...
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LINY4Runner
New member
[MENTION=56044]downpour11[/MENTION]...anything I'm missing?
downpour11
New member
Looks good to me. How did you hookup your brakes? Did you do it like I did and go through the abs unit?
LINY4Runner
New member
Yeah left everything as it was from the factory minus the stainless lines and Tundra brakes
downpour11
New member
Alright, you might have problems bleeding. Took us like 2 hours lol. Bleed normally, if there's still squishy/no pedal, you'll want to gravity bleed the abs unit. So gravity bleed every one of those lines on the abs unit, then gravity bleed the line into the master cylinder, then gravity bleed the abs unit again. You might ask a friend to step on the pedal once or twice while you do this. Then bleed the brakes normally again at all four corners. Check your pedal. If it's still bad, gravity bleed again, master cylinder then abs unit.
FYI we also used a vacuum bleeder on the rear, but it didn't seem to do anything. Gravity bleeding is what worked.
Pedal is good and normal again for me! Let me know if you run into any issues, I can take some pics of where I bled if you need.
LINY4Runner
New member
I'm gonna gravity bleed them for now...double-pump it all the way to work tomorrow and run the truck on the brake flush machine :biggrin1:
