Please review my cart for rear brakes
- Thread starter thor999
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From your pic, the Carlson 17253 part number already includes the part listed at the bottom Dorman HW1177.. According to the pics the Wagner kit and the brake shoes include them as well!
Honestly I have just reused the factory Toyota bars/brackets and adjuster on my '96. Mine were not rusted and were not froze so I just cleaned them and relubed for the reinstallation. Could save you $25.
Just re-did my rear brakes a couple weeks ago. I ran the Wagner H17183 hardware kit and it came with all springs, spring washers and those clips that are needed. Picked up that kit, new rear shoes and did not need anything else. If you dont have any, pick up some brake part lube and brake cleaner. I use the purple ceramic lube stuff which I think is by permatex.
Here is the stuff I used on my '96 SR5 4wd, not sure if the 01 would make a difference. And I picked up some new Toyota drums from TRDParts.com.
Link to the Wagner H17183 kit i used: Brake Hardware
Link to brake lube (but cheaper stuff is fine too): Brake Lube
Link to Shoes: Brake shoes They had some damaged box units in stock for $6.
Honestly I have just reused the factory Toyota bars/brackets and adjuster on my '96. Mine were not rusted and were not froze so I just cleaned them and relubed for the reinstallation. Could save you $25.
Just re-did my rear brakes a couple weeks ago. I ran the Wagner H17183 hardware kit and it came with all springs, spring washers and those clips that are needed. Picked up that kit, new rear shoes and did not need anything else. If you dont have any, pick up some brake part lube and brake cleaner. I use the purple ceramic lube stuff which I think is by permatex.
Here is the stuff I used on my '96 SR5 4wd, not sure if the 01 would make a difference. And I picked up some new Toyota drums from TRDParts.com.
Link to the Wagner H17183 kit i used: Brake Hardware
Link to brake lube (but cheaper stuff is fine too): Brake Lube
Link to Shoes: Brake shoes They had some damaged box units in stock for $6.
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Thanks for the input, but it looks like (according to Rockauto at least) that those shoes won't work on a '01
wake_rider
New member
I cannot state enough.... ONLY use OEM rear shoes. You can use anything OEM replacement equivalent anywhere else in the rear brake setup, but I went through 4 pairs of shoes with dragging/fitment issues before just taking the loss and buying OEM shoes. Problem resolved.
There is something to the arc of aftermarket replacement that does not n perfectly match up with the drum. It's a quality control issue with consistency of thickness of the adhesive used to attach the brake media to the metal shoe frame, I believe.
I had a problem with all 4 I tried, and there was extreme overheating and glazing that took place. OEM shoes and a resurfacing/removal of the glazing on the drums completely resolved my issue, but it would have been so much more time and cost efficient had I not cheaped out the first go around. Plus, the shoes make way less grabby noise than other sets I tried.
Are you sure you adjusted your shoes properly after doing your brakes? I had no problems with cheapo aftermarket shoes on my old 2nd gen (which has the same setup as the 3rd gen).
I see now that the 2001 calls for the xx764.
Amazon has the PAB764 for $17 - LINK
I bought mine this way and they had box damage yet the shoes were fine.
Scramble
New member
I dont know crap about our rear brakes. Mine are still original & I've had them professionally cleaned & adjusted 2 or 3 times over the last 17 years. Can I just replace the shoes & drums, (with OEM of course). Or do I need to change springs, cylinders & other "do-hickeys" in there too?
Thanks!
Mike
Thanks!
Mike
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
Wheel cylinders should be fine as long as they aren't super rusty. I always end up having to buy a hardware kit for every vehicle I work on cuz they rust easily and it's just easier to buy a new kit instead of trying to reuse old rusty crap.
wake_rider
New member
Positive that I had them correctly adjusted. The problem was that the crescent shape of the shoe was not perfectly matched to the inner circumference of the drum; normally the edges flared out a bit, causing severe rubbing if adjusted close, or giving almost no braking power at all if adjusted more loose in order to keep from dragging.
When I would more closely look at the shoes, the adhesive used to keep the brake media would be built up in places, causing a bulge away from the shape of the metal portion of the shoe. That dragging was super problematic, and would cause red-hot drums and a horrible burning smell. The OEM shoes had much tighter tolerances and fit the inner circumference of the drum perfectly, alleviating all rubbing issues even with a close adjustment on the auto adjusters.
when and if I do mine, I will prob look at new cylinders, after all mine is currently 16 years old, 176k and the rubber seals will go out at some point. I will also replace all the rubber flex hoses.
I have had too many times, rebuilt an old brake system and not replace cylinders or hoses and a few months later one of them goes out.
I have had too many times, rebuilt an old brake system and not replace cylinders or hoses and a few months later one of them goes out.
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sorry you had such issues, but thanks for pointing it out. New shoes from Toyota are 82 bucks, and since these originals have lasted 16 years, well I don't want the issues you had, and if 82 bucks versus 40 if I have no issues and get 16 years out of them, its worth it to me
this Toyota will prob be my last car, so I want my repairs to last ( currently 64 years young)
Scramble
New member
And the drums are around $115ea at Camelback. I too will spend the extra coin for a trouble free, long lasting replacement. When you go cheap with non Toyota parts you end up doing it over again & not saving any money.
Scramble
New member
This Raybestos hardware kit on Amazon gets the best reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C73JZO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C73JZO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I have been told and read , that if properly maintained and you did not drive when you heard metal on metal in the back you rarely need to replace the 4 runner drums. besides most of the stopping on these is with the front, thus TBU. My 4runner is on its 3rd set of pads, and the original drums and shoes. I have all dealer records of all repairs b4 I bought it, so I know mine are original.
side note, with front pads, I switched out perfectly good ones for EBC greens, thinking I would get a increase in stopping, mistake, dusty, fast wearing, little if any increase in breaking, put the old Toyota ones back on. When I do my TBU, I pretty sure I will go with Toyota pads
I'm on my first 4runner but it all my years dealing with drum brakes from the 60s and 70s american cars I would just replace the pads unless the other bits had issues. Cylinders leak to let you know, other than that I never replaced the other bits. Of course I am in dry CA so rust is just a word in the dictionary.
Jason
Jason
Scramble
New member
Should I just get the drums turned then?
I have my original drums with 160,000 miles & I have an e-locker axle with drums at about 180-200,000 miles. They both have surface rust so maybe I'll just wire wheel & paint them to match my front calipers.
My original front pads lasted 133,000 miles! Then I got about 30,000 out of cheap NAPA pads. Now I'm back to OEM on my TBU so these should last more than 133,000! I have a manual so I brake less than an A/T.
