Plug and Play speaker options when retaining stock HU

[RunninInGA]

To start off, I am a complete noob when it comes to electricity and wiring and the older I get, the less I know about speakers, head units, etc. That said, I have come to realize my rear speakers are blown and needing to be replaced.

I do not want to replace the stock head unit at this time. I prefer to retain the stock setup, including the amp if possible to avoid any additional wiring issues. While I'm replacing the rear speakers, I would also like to replace the front speakers, as well as the tweeter. This means I'll need a component system up front, correct?

I searched, but haven't come up with any threads offering direct plug and play options for the configuration detailed above. If your ninja search skills exceed mine, please post a link here.

Can anyone recommend some options that would fit the requirements above? My budget is up to $500 for front and rear speakers, which I believe should be more than enough to find upgraded replacements.

 

[A.Wilson013]

You can get some very nice speakers for $500...

That said, yes you'll want components.

As far as I know, nothing will be plug and play. You will need to just cut the stock connecter, hook the positive to the positive on the new speaker, and the negative to the negative...

I run the Infinity Kappas... General consensus on here is that they're pretty good... I like them a lot.

 

[RunninInGA]

You can get some very nice speakers for $500...

That said, yes you'll want components.

As far as I know, nothing will be plug and play. You will need to just cut the stock connecter, hook the positive to the positive on the new speaker, and the negative to the negative...

I run the Infinity Kappas... General consensus on here is that they're pretty good... I like them a lot.

this, I can do.

On Crutchfield (used for reference), I read where it was suggested to run a separate amp, losing the stock amp altogether with the components. I may have misunderstood however. I've been looking at the Kappas for the front and Reference 5032 for the rear, but then I started second-guessing the install and came here.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Hey,

I am running the Kappas. You do not want to run them off a stock deck & amp.

Serious Reason 1: most stock car amps produce 15W RMS. Kappas are desinged to run 50-75 W RMS.

Serious Reason 2: what is the impedence (ohm) of the stock speakers? I bet they are not 4 ohms like most aftermarket speakers. they are probably 6 ohm.

If you want to go aftermarket then go all the way and get a head unit and run new wires. TBST just went through this.

If you go ahead and there is a mismatch it may sound good for a few days / weeks then will likely blow. Reason: running low power in watts to speakers that need it will damage them.

 

[RunninInGA]

Hey,

I am running the Kappas. You do not want to run them off a stock deck & amp.

Serious Reason 1: most stock car amps produce 15W RMS. Kappas are desinged to run 50-75 W RMS.

Serious Reason 2: what is the impedence (ohm) of the stock speakers? I bet they are not 4 ohms like most aftermarket speakers. they are probably 6 ohm.

If you want to go aftermarket then go all the way and get a head unit and run new wires. TBST just went through this.

If you go ahead and there is a mismatch it may sound good for a few days / weeks then will likely blow. Reason: running low power in watts to speakers that need it will damage them.

Ok. Perhaps what I understood was somewhat right. What options would you recommend with the requirements above? I can't believe you'd have to replace everything just because some of the stock speakers are blown, right?

 

[IanB]

1st thing is 1st: the biggest single difference you can make is replacing the factory head unit with pretty well anything aftermarket, no other single component will make as big a difference.

You've got blown speakers though, and those need replaced. If you're keeping the stock head unit, you want something with a high sensitivity level, so you get good output from the low power in the stock HU. I would seriously set your budget at $200 for front and rear speakers, the cheaper, lower power handling ones will actually sound better than expensive, high output ones.

I just picked up some Pioneer 5.25" and 6.5" coax units, I've only installed the rears so far. You need an adapter plate (or make some) to run the 5.25" in the rears, and you won't end up using the factory separate tweeter if you run coax in the front. They are an easy install, and will get the job done though. I paid $80 for all 4, brand new in box. I can track down the model #'s if you want.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Well if I was keeping the stock head unit I would probably just replace the speakers with factory Toyota parts based on the assumption the head unit is best paired with the speakers. That is my intuition, i dont have solid facts with regards to Wattage and impedance for a stock radio.

If you want to upgrade the stock to something else I suggest finding out the stock speakers wattage and ohm rating. Then looking for a similar set online.

So if stocks are 15W then try to find low watt speakers because ideally you want to pair the speaker to the radio which is why i meantioned Kappas and a stock head unit would be a worst scenario.

 

[absalom]

You should seriously considering replacing the factory HU. It makes a huge difference in sound, you get ton more options including AUX input for iphone, mp3, etc. You are able to adjust your EQ, and much more as well.

In addition, you will also get pre amp outputs allowing you to hook up an amp to power your speakers.

Here is my very low budget system and it ABSOLUTELY DESTROYS the factory system. It's to the point now where I can't NOT wait to drive my car, it just sounds that good!

Headunit - Pioneer DEH1300 MP - Brand new for $60. (This headunit looks very modern and not at all intrusive.)

Amplifier - JBL - This is a 4 channel amp. Used from Craigslist for $55. This means it has separate channels for each of your speakers. You could run this amp and the above headunit and notice a tremendous increase in clarity, and power over the factory system.

Front 6.5" components - Soundstream - $55 new from local stereo shop. People will knock the brand since they don't know it, but the fact of the matter is that they are a huge upgrade from the whimpy stock front speakers.

10" sub with 300w amp - Lightning audio - $120 used from robotunderground.com Even if you aren't a big fan of bass, having a small, reasonably powered sub like this will allow your speakers to focus only on mids and highs. You'll get louder, cleaner, fuller sounds.

That's all I have and it still blows the factory system away! If you have no clue how to install all this, fear not, I was in the same boat as you. Just look under "services" on Craigslist and you can find a super affordable installer that knows exactly how to make it all work. I had everything installed for 65$, a real bargain.

Long story short; headunit, and amp take precedence over speakers.

 

[THEREALTOR1]

Well if I was keeping the stock head unit I would probably just replace the speakers with factory Toyota parts based on the assumption the head unit is best paired with the speakers. That is my intuition, i dont have solid facts with regards to Wattage and impedance for a stock radio.

RunnininGA, I think I still have my factory speakers down in my basement in the box my Kenwoods came in (front and back). Nothing wrong with them whatsoever, I just decided to upgrade to aftermarket. If you decide to go the route of just replacing the blown outs with duplicates, let me know, i'll investigate further as to their exact whereabouts and i'll send them your way for cost of shipping. This will at least buy you some time to figure out exactly what you wanna do, and even get you behind the door panel so you can see exactly whats going on in there. Shoot me a PM if you're interested :thumb3:

 

[BrianSD_42]

If I were to build a moderate systen fron stratch this is what I would do.

First ... Head Unit:
$210 Alpine Premium Unit with Tilt (used, ebay) includes new faceplate
or
$300 Kenwood Excelon w/ HD radio (crutchfield)

Amplifier:
$150 Alpine 4-channel amp for under front seat (new, ebay)
or
$300 for the used PDX-1000 in classified section

Front 6.5 component door speakers:
$130 Infinity Kappas (new, ebay)
or
$140 Alpine Type-R (new, ebay, need 50W RMS)

4G Wiring Kit:
$50, probably from Amazon (must be true 4G)

Dynamat 4 Door Kit:
$99 really worth the upgrade but you can do it at anytime.
Use high quality dynamat for doors, cheap stuffbif you do rest rest of the car.

Rear:
Skip for now, add later.

Sub and Amp:
Skip for now, add later

CAP:
Skip forever, buy a better battery!

My main point is that you will be much happier in the long run if you get quality gear which takes some cash but go top notch for the items I listed above, save the rest for down the road so you dojt break the bank. I would much rather have high quality audio stuff for the front w/no sub for 6 months as opposed to low-med grade for next 5 yrs.

 

[RunninInGA]

Rear:
Skip for now, add later.

I can't really do this unless I turn the bias to only the front speakers due to the rears being blown. :redbrick:

I really am just looking for the easiest, least invasive way to solve this problem. Guess I'll send realtor a PM for the time being, thanking him for his graciousness.

I'm just having a hard time believing (or accepting maybe) I need to replace the entire sound system just because a couple speakers are blown. Thanks again guys, keep the comments coming.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Ok so my last post was meant as - if you consider a full upgrade do it this way ....

Simplest explanation: if you want to keep the stock head unit and non-blown front speakers then just replace the rears with the factory toyota speakers.

The factory sound system is not like ones you buy at best buy. You cannot just swap out OeM speakers for Pioneer / Infinity ect and make it work. If you do that, it will either sound like crap right away or blow a few weeks later.

The reasons for everything I am saying was already said at the beginning of this thread.

It has to do with wattage and impeadance, basic electrical 101.

Good luck!

 

[that$pit]

Have an old jvc headunit that came with my runner. Pretty sure ive got the aftermarket speakers that where in it too. If he cant find his pm me. All it'll cost you is shipping..
I replaced all my stuff when I picked up the rig. Went to kenwood Kiv 900? Neichi hertz up front with infinity references in back pushed with a jbl 4 channel 400w amp also have a rockford 800a2 pushing a solo bairic.10 sounds pretty damn good. All you would need to put the deck in is a adapter kit and wiring harness from wally world. $30 from sally world.
that said lets hear about my sentence structuring and paragraph layout, just got a new tablet and playing around with it

 

[RunninInGA]

Have an old jvc headunit that came with my runner. Pretty sure ive got the aftermarket speakers that where in it too. If he cant find his pm me. All it'll cost you is shipping..
I replaced all my stuff when I picked up the rig. Went to kenwood Kiv 900? Neichi hertz up front with infinity references in back pushed with a jbl 4 channel 400w amp also have a rockford 800a2 pushing a solo bairic.10 sounds pretty damn good. All you would need to put the deck in is a adapter kit and wiring harness from wally world. $30 from sally world.
that said lets hear about my sentence structuring and paragraph layout, just got a new tablet and playing around with it

LoL. Thanks, I'll let you know!

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I have a brand new in the box Alpine 30x4 amp I'd sell you if you want it. I'd have to go down stairs to get the model number.

The advice everyone has given here is good advice. But, you can just replace the speakers too if you want. It's not ideal but it will work. I do agree with Ian though, no point in going with real high end speakers if you're retaining the stock headunit and amp.