2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Look above your post. Prothane makes front and rear kits with zerks, I listed part numbers. Nice fit, better ride.
Poly sway bar bushings?
- Thread starter Scharfschütze
- Start date
Look above your post. Prothane makes front and rear kits with zerks, I listed part numbers. Nice fit, better ride.
TRUSTYAXE
New member
I’ve been running whiteline front and rear for about 10 months now, the rear are greaseless but I do have to grease the fronts once in while. Major reduction in body roll.
Front Sway Bar Bushings - 29 mm | Toyota 4Runner
Might try the fronts with zerks, if the bracket compares to stock?
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
I bought the kit on Amazon. Comes with the bushings and brackets. Great thing about the brackets is the bolt holes are slotted. This allows you to position the sway bar rearward just a little bit for more clearance between the bar and the lower radiator support brackets. Really only matters if you're lifted but either way they are a bolt in swap in 15 minutes.
how squeeky does the front get? Can you hear it while driving?
TRUSTYAXE
New member
Just speed bumps in parking lots. But loud enough to be annoying. I installed the fronts with zerks over the weekend. Better quality than I expected. Put some grease on to start and then verified the alignment with the zerk after installation. Tested this afternoon while picking up the boy from school, not a sound. This is one of the best bang for your buck mods you can do, and the zerks make it even better.
Yoderguy
New member
Did you ever find an answer with this? I'm trying to order mine soon.
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Yoderguy
New member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/250357-21mm-sway-bars.html
that page might have your answer
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Yep and I ordered greasable Prothane bushings from Amazon. 19 rear, 29 front. Both are direct bolt in swaps.
Rear PN 19-1162-BL
Front PN 19-1185
Yoderguy
New member
I have a 10 SR5. Still not sure on the rear bushing. .787" = 19.98mm which is right in between sizing for either the 19 or 21mm rear bushing.
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Yoderguy
New member
Did some rear poly bushings today. Haven't had a chance to drive it but installation was a breeze. I used 19mm bushings but I think the more ideal bushing would have been 20mm. I measured the bar and got something between 19mm to 20mm. I went w/ this forums recommendation of 19mm anyway. Prothane website also recommends the 19mm but the ones I've installed arent Prothanes (Or are they?). The bushing did not close completely like the OEM rubbers did. But from what I gather from the world wide interweb is that smaller isnt an issue. The bushing sat snug within the U bracket and there was no gaps between the bushing and bracket. Torqued the rear all down to 33ft/lb. Says grease is not required as it has some fuzzy lining inside the bushing itself. I went ahead and applied some silicon plumbers grease anyway. It's high temp and silicone grease so no harm done for 2 dollars a tube.
Not going to try front bushings until I get some positive impressions first.
Not going to try front bushings until I get some positive impressions first.
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borfoo3
New member
Looking forward for the test drive results!
ScarfaceT4R
New member
For the record, I went with 20mm. REALLY wish I went with 21mm as 20mm leaves a small gap as others have stated..
Here's some pics:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/254531-rear-sway-bar-bushing-bracket-install.html
Here's some pics:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/254531-rear-sway-bar-bushing-bracket-install.html
7.3.18 updates
The rear bushings alone did not make enough improvement to call things an "improvement". In fact I felt it was less safe than the OEM rubber bushings. Rubber fronts + poly rears = bad unpredictable snappy steering.
So i went ahead and decided to just try to front to rebalance things again. And rebalance it did. Now im able to call it improvement. Less boat rocking motion on uneven road.
So do yourself a favor and replace both sets front and rear rather than experiment like i did.
Rears were super easy. Jack not required if your slim enough. Fronts were also simple. Did not have to remove skids. I turned the wheels all the way to one side to the other for access. Be careful not to drop bolts, brackets, bushings into the skids. If you do then you gotta remove 20 fricking bolts to retrieve it all.
SR5's require a 29mm bushing and here are some side by side photos to show the size difference. Poly bushing was noticeable smaller but it fit within the bracket almost snug but not quite as snug as OEM bushing. I did not feel this is an issue. The ID is almost a perfect fit around the bar. I felt the rears would fit better w/ a 20mm ID bushing.
Torque it all down to 21ft/lb front and rears and go autocrossing
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2012sr5
New member
Just installed these, greased them up, and went for a test drive. I immediately noticed less lean while turning and better handling overall. For $40 and half an hour of my time, I'd say it was well worth it.
My OEM rubber bushings seemed pretty soft, but they weren't cracked or anything. Still, the poly made a noticeable difference.
