Potential ARB Locker Problems for a DD?

Seattle206

Senior Member
I'm in the process of ordering ARB twin compressor CKMTA12 and the ARB locker RD193. I won't be doing a re-gear as the 4R is my DD and I will never go beyond 285's. Going to tackle this job myself in the garage come May.

I am aware of the possible issues with air lockers off-road(leaking/torn airlines) but that isn't my main concern. Are there any possible negative impacts of adding a locker that may reduce the reliability of the mechanics in the rear diff? The locker will rarely be used but what possible concerns should I have that may effect the vehicle's driveability on-road? I got a smoking deal for a compressor/locker combo that I couldn't pass up.
 
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There's not much outside of a machine shop that I don't do myself, but I wouldn't mess with the carrier replacement required to install an ARB. There's only a few places I would trust to do the work correctly. I used ECGS.

My biggest worry would be that you are getting a counterfeit Chinese copy of an ARB locker, especially with a "smoking deal."

None of the installation/maintenance related items from an air locker should impact the daily driver reliability of the diff, just the actual operation of the locker, i.e. leaking airlines, fittings, O-rings, etc. You must replace the 1 way valve on the breather of your diff something that is "open" on the end.

ETA: Beacon Hill is Boston, right? Seriously, how often are you stuck or having to turn around with ATRAC where a locker would make the difference?
 
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I put in lockers last year, it has no impact on daily driving. I would still consider the 4.56 gearing though, it is really nice to crawl in L1 either up hill or downhill.
 
Beacon Hill in Seattle.

Good to know about the carrier replacement. I haven't got too much experience with diffs but do have experience doing engine, clutch/flywheel work and thought this would be a good opportunity to get to know the diff system of the 5th gen.

The ARB parts are genuine coming from an authorized dealer here in WA. Though the deal may not be "smoking" to others the sales guy can get me them for list price if I buy the compressor and locker together. I intended on getting the compressor only but I'd get a better deal if I purchased the locker too.
 
I wouldn't do the install myself but to each their own and kudos if you do it right. As far as "issues" what you mentioned isn't "issues". if you run the air lines properly it shouldn't be an issue but if I were to have a line issue on the trail I'd rather replace a section of hose than have to rewire a locker
 
I'll repeat what other said.

ARBs are extremely well made and dead nuts reliable when installed properly

I emphasize installed properly because there are many ARB failures... but I would argue 99% relate back to improper installation or simple abuse. If your locker won't hold air... Don't use it... (a constantly cycling compressor is a warning sign, duh) Either run open or get off the trail.

It carrier could be DIY installed... but it is 1) Tricky and requires several tools I'm sure you don't have 2) Do you really trust yourself to do it right the very first time. Saving a few bucks may result in a much bigger replacement cost and frustration down the road.

I ordered assembled 3rds from ECGS. Still requires some wrenching, but stuff you really can't screw up.

Also, take the time to route the air lines properly and shield them well. I've seen some really stupid stuff where people wonder why they are having issues...

For daily driving you will never know it is there. It only makes the diff stronger, should be 0 reliability issues if the install is done correctly.
 
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As long as you have the proper tools, do your research, and fully understand what you're getting into, I don't see any problem with installing it yourself. Regearing/ARB install is on my list of items I want to do someday. Probably not on my 4Runner but I'd like to do it just for the experience. I had an ARB in the rear of my 2003 Tacoma and it in no way affected daily driving. There's not much to worry about with them. Only issue I had was that my air line would fill up with diff fluid if I didn't use the locker vey often. All I had to do was climb under the truck, unplug the airline from the diff, and turn the compressor on to blow the line out and it was good to go. It just became part of my routine before wheeling kind of like airing down, attaching shackles to recovery points, and making sure all critical parts are torqued down.

If you decide to tackle the install yourself, post up pics of the process!
 
No way would I tackle a arb install. Leave that for a gear shop. Running the compressor is do able though. Why did you go with the twin compressor. The little one does just fine.
 
No way would I tackle a arb install. Leave that for a gear shop. Running the compressor is do able though. Why did you go with the twin compressor. The little one does just fine.

The small compressor is unsuitable for airing up tires, running air tools, etc. While the twin is not ideal for these things ever it is definitely capable of it. Airing up tires with the small compressor takes a while and will get the compressor way too hot. Especially if mounted under the hood with a running engine. I wouldn't use the smaller compressor for anything other than actuating lockers.
 
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The ARB parts are genuine coming from an authorized dealer here in WA. Though the deal may not be "smoking" to others the sales guy can get me them for list price if I buy the compressor and locker together.

List price? You are smoking if you think that's a deal....:smokin:

Dealer, or jobber price are deals.

As for the install, I'll do my own when I get them. Not that big of a deal from what I can tell. Backlash, torque, so what.
 
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Sorry, I met net price lol.

I'm gonna order the compressor and locker later this week. Come later this spring a buddy and I will tackle the job. He's a mechanic for industrial diesel trucks and we will use his shop since he has the lift and tools. Will post a step by step DIY when the time comes!
 
Also, take the time to route the air lines properly and shield them well. I've seen some really stupid stuff where people wonder why they are having issues...

^^ Can't emphasize this enough. The one time I've had an ARB locker issue was due to a melted air line because of a broken zip-tie.
 
The small compressor is unsuitable for airing up tires, running air tools, etc. While the twin is not ideal for these things ever it is definitely capable of it. Airing up tires with the small compressor takes a while and will get the compressor way too hot. Especially if mounted under the hood with a running engine. I wouldn't use the smaller compressor for anything other than actuating lockers.

I missed the part where he said he was going to be airing up tires.
 
I missed the part where he said he was going to be airing up tires.

He never did. But you asked why go with the larger compressor? So I gave some reason why someone would. It's a safe bet that if you're going somewhere that requires a locker to get there, you'll need to air down your tires as well. Unless you just wheel at the mall.
 
Northridge 4x4 near Bremerton is a great shop for off road install. I've also heard Randys Ring and Pinion is decent too.

ARB does sell a quick splice repair kit. Very handy 5 min fix for on the trail. Should cause zero problems using the ARB on the street. Be sure the diff breather tube is not plugged. Highly recommend extending the breather tube away from mud. Otherwise the diff will breath through the ARB solenoid.
 
I've said it once, I'll say it again, toyota diffs are not like chevy or ford diffs! And I've had one go out on me that was built by a reputable shop! A few thousands off with the shims is what caused it to grenade on me, and there's nothing fun about driving back to the shop with missing teeth in the ring gear!

I also have an arb in my '87 truck, its up front. Also installed by same shop, they got it right, and I got to watch part of the install. I've built engines from ground up, but I would not touch a toyota diff, there's a lot of things going on in there, preload, side load, which shim goes where, how many shims are needed, how much extra do I need to add/remove for final load to produce correct pattern, will the arb brass tube bend correctly without cracking or splitting it before its put into place, solid or crush sleeve, how do each change the loading, even if its miniscule. For those that do this daily at 4x4 shops, these questions are just second nature to them, for someone who's never touched one before? Sounds dangerous to me, and if you don't get it right, how much is the damage going to cost me? Beater truck that's used mainly for offroad trails? Yeah, maybe I'd chance it. 30+ thousand dollar 4 runner for daily driving? Not so much.

Just my $0.02. Oh yeah, the initial question of wear and tear on the vehicle while having a locker? With an arb, its really just an open diff when unlocked, so really no more wear than what you have right now. Locking the arb on the road? Quite a bit more wear on the gear set as well as loads on the axles, but toyota axles really are pretty damned strong. I've seen an s/c v6 tacoma smack ledges with wheels spinning and locker actuated, and nothing happens to the diff or gears. I think the biggest issue with arb lockers are when they start leaking internally and blow your seals out. I've read about this happening, but I've never seen it in real life, and certainly not on mine that's been in my truck for close to 10 years now. I really wouldn't worry about wear and tear with an arb...
 
I currently have an air leak somewhere in my rear diff . So when I hit my rear ARB locker the little compressor keeps cycling on and off about every five seconds . FWIW the ARB continues to lock up the rear , no problems despite the air leak .

I mention this to illustrate how durable and tough the ARB is , that even when it's obviously in need of a repair , it still locks and unlocks properly ... and yes the fix is on my to-do list.
 
is it just a leaky air line going to the arb, or is it leaking inside the diff? If its leaking from the diff, you'll see oil all over the area below your breather, and if that stops flowing, it will blow oil past the front seal and wheel seals.
 

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