Power Fluctuation + Check Engine Light?

santanvalleydirt

New member
Hey everyone. I've been having a weird issue lately, at first it was really rare, but it's happening a lot more now.

I'll be driving down the road, and all of a sudden, my RPMs will slam down to 0, and my check engine light will come on. Even though the RPMs hit 0, the vehicle doesn't turn off. After a half a second of that, the RPMs will jump right back to where it was before while I was driving, and then the check engine light will turn off a few seconds after that. When it happens, and the RPMs slam down, my truck will act like I just totally let go of the gas w/out the clutch or like if I tapped the brake or something. What the hell would that be? I've found no correlation between how I'm driving and how often it happens.
 
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I can shut everything off in my truck by turning my key slightly off but not all the way, engine continues to run. Tach drops to zero and lights come on, it also unlocks my doors!

Perhaps its the ignition key or wiring? Maybe the ig switch is gettin' old like mine and its starting to break connections inside.
 
x2 igniter and or ignition coil . Same thing happened to me but my truck would not restart for awhile . Check for codes also...
 
Good indication that the part may be bad out of the box. Put the old one back in.

The old one is long gone. I had it done at a shop. I was having weird issues, and couldn't figure out what was wrong and finally took it to a shop, where they said the igniter was out. The new one didn't fix my original issue, and then rarely this new issues started. I went back insisting they put the old one in, but they have me half my money back for the new igniter and then found the REAL solution that I was having before and fixed it.
 
Try putting a spark tester in line and see if you have an interruption in your coil wire when this happens.
If you own a Go Pro, you can hook it up to take a movie of your spark tester while you drive. If not, and the duration is long enough, have a friend drive and when it stops, safely, run out, open the hood and have them crank the motor over while you watch the tester.
 
The old one is long gone. I had it done at a shop. I was having weird issues, and couldn't figure out what was wrong and finally took it to a shop, where they said the igniter was out. The new one didn't fix my original issue, and then rarely this new issues started. I went back insisting they put the old one in, but they have me half my money back for the new igniter and then found the REAL solution that I was having before and fixed it.


So it's fine now?
 

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