Pro's/Con's: Plastidip

Aludew5

New member
I've been reading up on this product a little and am unsure of exactly how it works or what it's best for.

Is it true you can spray it over plastic and metal and it will only stick to the plastic parts? IE- bare plastic sr5 fender flares but not the paint around them?

I just ordered a new oem front bumper and was planning on spray painting the lower apprin w/ black spray paint, rubberized coating, truck bedliner, or plastidip. Would Plastidip be appropriate for this?

What is the best process for using plastidip on emblems?

Thanks for input and techniques for this product. :roadkill:
 
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Plasti-Dip

Plasti-Dip will stick great to both plastic and metal. It will stick to the sr5 fender flares and the painted metal around it. The great thing about Plasti-Dip is that it will peel off what you don't want painted. But don't get worried, it wont peel easy. It has kind of a abnormal texture to it, its even a little rough. But overall it is a great product. Plasti-Dip is the best product for your bumper. If you end up not liking it, just take it off. I Plasti-Dipped my emblems. The best way to do this is to tape off the emblems then cover them with the Plasti-Dip. Try this page: Club Lexus Forums - View Single Post - DIY - Matte Black Emblems - Plastidip, no emblem removal required! . I know its not a 4runner, but it is the best page on it. I used about 5-6 coats, and it looks and is holding up great! No wear, no car-wash damage, nothing! That is my personal opinion on this product.
 
My plastidipped valence has gone through a he'll of a winter and to date there are no chips, but when I polished my chrome I accidentally hit the valence with polish and it stained it bad, so I would just clear coat the plastidipped if I were you.
 
I bought a spray-can each of Plasti-Dip and Rust-Olium bed liner then tested it on a 5 gal. plastic bucket. The Plasti-Dip cured to a flat rubbery finish that could be scuffed/torn with a fingernail and the spray-on bed liner dried to a tough textured finish.

I planned on off-roading with my runner so I used the bed liner on everything I wanted to black-out. It has held up well to repeated sponge washing and pressure washing. When waxing, I do have to mask-off or stay away from the textured finish or it will dry white where the wax touched it, but cleans off easily with a soapy sponge.
4Runner007.jpg~original
 
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Thanks for the link on the emblems! Ive been wondering about that and its so easy :)
Ive used plastidip so far on my centercaps and chrome trim- its held up really well so far...love the stuff
 
Great link.

Anymore input?

I'm still torn on to whether go truck bed liner or plastidip...

Plastidip seems much quicker and if it doesn't hold up as well seems like it's not a huge deal to do it over.
 
Great link.

Anymore input?

I'm still torn on to whether go truck bed liner or plastidip...

Plastidip seems much quicker and if it doesn't hold up as well seems like it's not a huge deal to do it over.

At $6 a can and i only used one can for my valence, just start with the plastidip, like i said it has been through hell and it has scrapped snow banks, and had ice form on it, and covered in salt, and no peeling or cracking. Plus you can remove it and then bedline it if you feel it is not adequate for your needs...
 
The problem I had with it was that it would stain very easily, and when it was stained, it was impossible to remove the said stain. Any time I hit a mud puddle or something it would have to be redone so it wouldn't look like crap.
 
The problem I had with it was that it would stain very easily, and when it was stained, it was impossible to remove the said stain. Any time I hit a mud puddle or something it would have to be redone so it wouldn't look like crap.

Clear coat will resolve the problem above.
 
Clear coat will resolve the problem above.

At this point is it worth it?

The redeeming qualities of Plasti-dip include the fact that it can be peeled off if you don't like it, other than that it is not a good finish. Always has the orange peel texture, very rough to the touch. Sure Plasti-dip something to see if you want it black, but if you are going to clear coat it, remove the Plasti-dip and go over it with some REAL rattle can! ( I prefer Rustoleum Industrial Enamel) But I am a bit of a connoisseur :bigok:
 
But Plasti-Dip lets you easily paint your logos black that would be very difficult and messy with a rattle can.

I can agree with that especially if it's a nice new car, you don't want to mess up the paint removing an emblem. For me, I just removed mine and painted them off the car, hard to get anything resembling "Black Pearl" with Plasti-Dip
 
I bought a spray-can each of Plasti-Dip and Rust-Olium bed liner then tested it on a 5 gal. plastic bucket. The Plasti-Dip cured to a flat rubbery finish that could be scuffed/torn with a fingernail and the spray-on bed liner dried to a tough textured finish.



I planned on off-roading with my runner so I used the bed liner on everything I wanted to black-out. It has held up well to repeated sponge washing and pressure washing. When waxing, I do have to mask-off or stay away from the textured finish or it will dry white where the wax touched it, but cleans off easily with a soapy sponge.

4Runner007.jpg~original


I like the trim you have under the doors! Where did you get that?
 
I know I'm bumping an old thread, but this question was probably not worth a new one:

When Plasti-Dipping fender flares, how do you tape off the rest of the body?
I would assume that the body would have to be taped off multiple times; that you'd have to peel the tape after each coat while it's still wet so you don't peel it all off at the very end.
I saw something like this concerning Plasti-Dipping wheels.
Am I correct?
 
DipYourCar.com is the official PlastiDip painting website. They have tutorial videos. Its more than just spraying and if done properly will be stronger than "just peeling with a fingernail" so read up on it before use. Ive seen cars that have lasted in mint condition for years. They also have a facebook page.
 
My wife and I dipped a few bits here and there on her Quicksand TRDP. Among those parts were the silver roof rails, but mounting anything on them severely damaged the plastidip. That said, people act like it will peel off like a vinyl wrap, but it is actually pretty tedious to remove entirely. Honestly, I think the only benefit is that it can be removed if you want to experiment with small parts with the ability to remove it.

So, for me, as long as you use care in masking the rest of the car, I would use regular spray paint for amything I wanted to actually be permanent.
 
Plasti Dip is Great!

I just got my 4Runner and didn't really like the chrome badges so I plasti dipped them. I had no experience with it and first tried to tape off just the badges which didn't go so well. When I tried to take the tape off, it peeled the plasti dip off the badges. I had to re-do it all and the second time, I taped off about two inches from the badges.

** Tip: Right after you spray on the plasti dip, use a tooth pick and go around the edges of the badges BEFORE it dries. When it does dry, it makes it SOOOO much easier to peel off!! The plasti dip peels off the truck paint very easily and leaves no mark.
 
I bought a spray-can each of Plasti-Dip and Rust-Olium bed liner then tested it on a 5 gal. plastic bucket. The Plasti-Dip cured to a flat rubbery finish that could be scuffed/torn with a fingernail and the spray-on bed liner dried to a tough textured finish.



I planned on off-roading with my runner so I used the bed liner on everything I wanted to black-out. It has held up well to repeated sponge washing and pressure washing. When waxing, I do have to mask-off or stay away from the textured finish or it will dry white where the wax touched it, but cleans off easily with a soapy sponge.

4Runner007.jpg~original



Looks really good. How did you prep your bumper before painting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think it looks like someone drove through roofing tar in an elusive Sport Edition and ruined the monochromatic paint scheme.

I think we need to leave plastidip back in 2011 where it belongs. I'll never understand why forum "enthusiasts" get a boner over painting things flat black.
 

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