Pull to the right but it's "aligned"?

[Troybylt]

Hey 3rd's my truck has a slight pull to the right even though the shop swears it is aligned, and I am fairly certain my 160lb rear isn't upsetting the geometry THAT much.

That said I am missing my right hand front sway bar end link. Left is still attached but I must have snapped my right one on the trail. Looking at the break from what was left of the broken one it had been ready to go for a while.

So now the question is take the whole bar out or replace both of the end links?
if I do OEM or I have heard the Duralast Autozones are beefy. (Beefy doesn't always mean stronger though!)

And do you think the missing right link could cause the right pull?

 

[KidVermicious]

The missing link takes the sway bar completely out of the equation, it's not causing the pull.

Try rotating your tires.

 

[Troybylt]

The missing link takes the sway bar completely out of the equation, it's not causing the pull.

Try rotating your tires.

I figured the left one may be pushing down, but I will rotate tires and report back later today.

 

[KidVermicious]

I figured the left one may be pushing down,

Not unless it's seized in the frame bushings. The sway bar is supposed to rotate freely on the frame. Easy enough to check it if you think that's the trouble though, unbolt the side that still has a link and see if your pull goes away.

 

[snow junky]

Sometimes tacos and 4runners lean to one side on flat ground.

Uneven worn tires will cause major pull

Some roads are crown to the side to drain water

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Hey 3rd's my truck has a slight pull to the right even though the shop swears it is aligned, and I am fairly certain my 160lb rear isn't upsetting the geometry THAT much.

That said I am missing my right hand front sway bar end link. Left is still attached but I must have snapped my right one on the trail. Looking at the break from what was left of the broken one it had been ready to go for a while.

So now the question is take the whole bar out or replace both of the end links?
if I do OEM or I have heard the Duralast Autozones are beefy. (Beefy doesn't always mean stronger though!)

And do you think the missing right link could cause the right pull?

Do you have a print out of your alignment you could upload? Or give your exact caster, camber, and toe readings. How bad does it pull? Did this occur after the alignment was done? Finally, why was the truck getting aligned to begin with?

The MOOG end links are beefier than stock. They have a grease fitting also.

 

[86SupraMKII]

Also I would check the tire pressure along with the tire rotation.

 

[squabeggz]

Stuck caliper, maybe?

 

[Troybylt]

Rotated tires, X pattern, still has slight right pull though less notice able now. Just a little extra tire noise as they wear back in.

Sometimes tacos and 4runners lean to one side on flat ground.
Uneven worn tires will cause major pull
Some roads are crown to the side to drain water

I don't seem to have a lean, I just installed some rear springs and the measurements are 21" in the back both sides and 20" up front both sides. (Factory springs and I had the pull before the install still have it now springs did no change.)

Tires all appear to have the same wear and have only about 10k on them.

The Pull is subtle enough that I figured it was the road crowning as I usually plant myself in the "get passed" lane until I noticed one day I was in the passing lane for a good while (construction had my lane closed) and the truck still wanted to "climb" the noticeable crown.

Do you have a print out of your alignment you could upload? Or give your exact caster, camber, and toe readings. How bad does it pull? Did this occur after the alignment was done? Finally, why was the truck getting aligned to begin with?

The MOOG end links are beefier than stock. They have a grease fitting also.

I do not have the print out though I remember seeing it on the computer screen I don't recall exact measurements but everything was in the green.

Pull is fairly slight I was attributing it to road crown until I was on the other side of the crown and realized it wanted to "climb" the crown vs veer away.

I don't recall it pulling immediately after the alignment but I was also not happy with the service and didn't want anything to be wrong as I didn't want to go back AGAIN. (Had to take my tires back 4 times to get balanced 265/75 r 16 BFG A/T KO's They kept telling me "live with it AT tires will never be balanced perfectly" I called BS.)

Truck was being aligned as I have a free year alignment with the tires I bought, 10k miles ago, I had time and had just returned from some trail riding at that time it had a slight left pull. I did not tell the shop of any symptoms as I didn't want them to over correct. Come to think of it it has been 3 weeks of driving (On road only) I may as well take it back, just hope I get a competent tire tech.

Also I would check the tire pressure along with the tire rotation.

Tires are all at 47psi (3 Ply LT tires are supposed to run higher according to my research, I have had no issues running at 47 with these tires and have no high or low wear spots.)

Stuck caliper, maybe?

Possible though not likely, something I hadn't considered as I put all new 199mm Tundra brakes on it 13k miles ago when I bought the truck.


I have not yet pulled the remaining sway bar link but may just get new end links on it this coming weekend if that doesn't fix it; back to the dreaded shop.

I need to get a post lift, I don't like other mech's handling my girl.

Thanks for all the help and additional ideas guys!

 

[99ToyoRunner]

I was going to say a stuck brake caliber? My passenger side sway bar link was sheared off but I put 10k on my truck and have brand new tires and there's no uneven wear at all. I had a similar situation with subaru...I had the car aligned and it kept wondering to the left constantly. I couldn't figure it out since I had it aligned and it would just keep wondering but it turns out since I hit the curb pretty hard scraping the crap out of my front passenger side wheel it messed up the balance of my front wheel. As soon as I put my summer wheels on my car it didn't wonder off to the left on the highway at all anymore. So I'd check the balance on your wheels

 

[Troybylt]

I was going to say a stuck brake caliber? My passenger side sway bar link was sheared off but I put 10k on my truck and have brand new tires and there's no uneven wear at all. I had a similar situation with subaru...I had the car aligned and it kept wondering to the left constantly. I couldn't figure it out since I had it aligned and it would just keep wondering but it turns out since I hit the curb pretty hard scraping the crap out of my front passenger side wheel it messed up the balance of my front wheel. As soon as I put my summer wheels on my car it didn't wonder off to the left on the highway at all anymore. So I'd check the balance on your wheels

Well I may have the shop check the balance and alignment again but I'm definitely going to try a new shop. The two I've been to are bollocks!

 

[Konkordmusk]

Tires are all at 47psi (3 Ply LT tires are supposed to run higher according to my research, I have had no issues running at 47 with these tires and have no high or low wear spots.)

Woah. You should have a look at your door jamb sticker, I think stock tire pressure is like 27psi isn't it? That's for a non-LT too. So you've a thicker tire designed to hold its round shape using less pressure. I happily run my 315's at 32psi. I recommend airing down, at least a little. The sidewalls of your tires are an essential component of your suspension as they act similar to a spring.

As for the issue at hand, without seeing the alignment specs, we can't really be sure what's going on. Be sure to get a print out or at least snap a pic of the numbers. Just because the numbers are in the green, doesn't mean it will pull straight. I'm gonna hazard a guess at the left caster being ~0.3º ahead of the right, give or take a few tenths.

 

[Troybylt]

Woah. You should have a look at your door jamb sticker, I think stock tire pressure is like 27psi isn't it? That's for a non-LT too. So you've a thicker tire designed to hold its round shape using less pressure. I happily run my 315's at 32psi. I recommend airing down, at least a little. The sidewalls of your tires are an essential component of your suspension as they act similar to a spring.

As for the issue at hand, without seeing the alignment specs, we can't really be sure what's going on. Be sure to get a print out or at least snap a pic of the numbers. Just because the numbers are in the green, doesn't mean it will pull straight. I'm gonna hazard a guess at the left caster being ~0.3º ahead of the right, give or take a few tenths.

AIR DOWN!? I LIKE 19.5 MPG! I suppose I could and try it. I got the three ply so I wouldn't have to worry about the sidewalls as much when going REALLY low for all the sand pits round here and possible rock crawlin'. I don't remember where I read it but a few sites actually recommended like 55PSI, I tried running at 50 for a time but it was like having stone tires. The site was not Toyota I do remember that (Chevy I believe?) and I know we have much smaller lighter trucks.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Maybe its different in Florida with humidity but here I don't think a shop would let you fill tires to 47 psi. I run my 315's at 35 and was instructed to run 30 since it wanders and pulls to the right. Same thing though.......alignment is spot on yet pulls. They rebalanced and rotated tires and it still does it. Lower pressure for sure and if the alignment is still good like they say don't worry about it.

 

[Konkordmusk]

AIR DOWN!? I LIKE 19.5 MPG! I suppose I could and try it. I got the three ply so I wouldn't have to worry about the sidewalls as much when going REALLY low for all the sand pits round here and possible rock crawlin'. I don't remember where I read it but a few sites actually recommended like 55PSI, I tried running at 50 for a time but it was like having stone tires. The site was not Toyota I do remember that (Chevy I believe?) and I know we have much smaller lighter trucks.

When I had my 275's, I got 19 mpg running them at 30psi

The door sticker actually has load ratings that are a decent guide to what pressures you should run. If you know what your current tires load rating is, and how much weight you carry CONSISTENTLY, you can adapt as such. Even then, I would only bring them up to 40psi tops.

 

[Troybylt]

When I had my 275's, I got 19 mpg running them at 30psi

The door sticker actually has load ratings that are a decent guide to what pressures you should run. If you know what your current tires load rating is, and how much weight you carry CONSISTENTLY, you can adapt as such. Even then, I would only bring them up to 40psi tops.

I was going of the Min/Max cold rating PSI on the tire, I figured with the larger than listed tire as well as being an LT the door sticker would be irrelevant.

When it get's light out I'll take another look at my current tire pressure, door sticker and pressures listed on the tire.

 

[slapdappy]

you have one busted end link, you run your tires at 47 psi, your tires aren't balanced because you took them 4x to a place you think does crappy work, where you also have a years worth of free crappy alignments,
Of course your truck doesn't track straight.
detach the end link like KV says, inflate tires to a reasonable normal psi, get your tires Road Force balanced with the lug centric adapter and the StraightTrak option on a Hunter GSP 9700 at a place that does good work and have the same place check the alignment.
Dude, not hating but come on, you can't have that many variables out of spec (47psi ?!) and wonder why it doesn't track straight.

 

[Troybylt]

you have one busted end link, you run your tires at 47 psi, your tires aren't balanced because you took them 4x to a place you think does crappy work, where you also have a years worth of free crappy alignments,
Of course your truck doesn't track straight.
detach the end link like KV says, inflate tires to a reasonable normal psi, get your tires Road Force balanced with the lug centric adapter and the StraightTrak option on a Hunter GSP 9700 at a place that does good work and have the same place check the alignment.
Dude, not hating but come on, you can't have that many variables out of spec (47psi ?!) and wonder why it doesn't track straight.

Hey man blunt reason is still reason, no harm no foul. This is my first truck, everything up this point has been lowered not lifted with Low pro Z tires. I'm entering a new world and have lived and learned a few lessons. Fortunately all my previous general Toyota knowledge carries over but when it comes to truck suspensions well I'm learning all the time.

Thanks for the recommendations and what machines to ask for. I'll try running at 37psi for a while and see what ends up effected.

If it means anything to you the shop(s) is Tire Kingdom, they will hire any window licker that can hold a wrench right along with their 35yr certified ASE techs , so some times it's hit or miss depending on the shop, day, and even hour. And even if you get a good tech he can be having a bad day and just wanna bust the job out so you get out of his face. OI!

(Previous cars 88Supra Right hand drive 92MR2 Turbo right hand drive 90MR2 left hand drive 08 Scion XD left hand drive)

 

[slapdappy]

Window licker. Ha. Good one.
Window licker. I'm adding it to my repertoire.