Hey guys, I took my 99 2WD 4runner to a local shop who told me the shaking I've been experiencing is due to the driveshaft. Today I went to a local junkyard and found a 2001 driveshaft so I'm glad it's going to be a newer component. The ends may have been dragged in the dirt though while I was pulling it from the car. Anything I should do to it before putting it on the car other than brush off the dirt? Should I grease it with anything prior to installing it? All the guides I've watched show that I should mark the thing before removing to know how to place it back, since this is from another car, how would I know how it was supposed to go back in?
Pulled a used (newer) drive shaft, what should I know?
- Thread starter crespoh69
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Clean inspect lube u-joints inside sleeve yoke it's used.
Indexing it hit or miss. Put it on you notice vibration driving, disconnect rear flange rotate
90* 180* 270* take your pick reattach drive. Rinse repeat maybe maybe not.
Could be lucky first try.
Indexing it hit or miss. Put it on you notice vibration driving, disconnect rear flange rotate
90* 180* 270* take your pick reattach drive. Rinse repeat maybe maybe not.
Could be lucky first try.
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Any particular lube you'd recommend?
96RedRunner
Senior Member
FSM says Molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
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I appreciate your help!
phattyduck
Elite Member
The OEM 2WD shaft is not greaseable. If there are greaseable joints in the shaft, somebody was previously fighting the same vibration you are feeling. Also, there are no alignment issues with the 2WD shaft - it is a single-piece and cannot come apart (slip yoke in the trans, not the shaft).
The problem is *not* the u-joints. The main part of the shaft is two pieces that are connected with rubber. This rubber wears out with time and the whole shaft must be replaced. They can be purchased pre-made 100% new (with a solid tube...) from multiple sources.
Shaft replacement is just 4 bolts/nuts on the rear diff and it just comes right out.
-Charlie
The problem is *not* the u-joints. The main part of the shaft is two pieces that are connected with rubber. This rubber wears out with time and the whole shaft must be replaced. They can be purchased pre-made 100% new (with a solid tube...) from multiple sources.
Shaft replacement is just 4 bolts/nuts on the rear diff and it just comes right out.
-Charlie
96RedRunner
Senior Member
It's only help when its good help, Charlie got me to look again, I'll just get back in the truck.
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Devbot
New member
The entire double cardan can't be rebuilt, at least not without some seriously custom tools. Toyota thought it was a great idea to scallop and taper the yokes so nothing can sit flat or even firm on there. Getting it apart is a nightmare though possible, but getting them reassembled again is next to impossible. I made the mistake of trying without doing my research a couple years back and I think it ended up being an 8 hour job. Even shattered two caps for the u-joints in the process because they would get so bound up halfway down.
If you take it to a driveline shop and they'll probably offer to sell you a shaft that CAN be rebuilt and stronger than OEM for less than what Toyota charges. Last I checked Toyota asks $450-500 for a replacement, whereas my new shaft from my local builder cost me $350. I think Tom Woods is in the same ballpark. I would highly, highly recommend getting aftermarket over OEM.
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Twisted Sid
Member
If the brand used driveshaft is in good condition with good u joints, why would it need to be taken in to a shop to be rebuilt?
Also, 2wd shafts don't have the double cardan joint. It's just 2 regular u joints
Also, 2wd shafts don't have the double cardan joint. It's just 2 regular u joints
What about the exposed polished end that would have touched dirt? Wouldn't I still grease that before loading it into the truck? Or just use a brush to take off the debris?
Twisted Sid
Member
Do not grease that part. Spray the slip yolk with brake clean and wipe it off. Make sure to do the inside part where the splines are too. That goes right into the tail shaft of the transmission and you don't want any dirt or small rocks to get in there. That will get oiled inside the trans by the ATF.
phattyduck
Elite Member
If you are storing it, you'll want to put some sort of oil on it to keep it from rusting, but that's it. Clean it before install, and if you really want - a thin film of ATF. The 2WD slip yoke is not greased, it is lubed by ATF from inside the transmission.
If there are grease zerks on the u-joints, grease them - just know they are aftermarket, not OEM.
-Charlie
