Question on 33's

[JayRolla]

At least 650$ for UCAs. Little bit much for me to be spending right now on those. Wheel spacers for now I believe. 1.25 or 1.5?

1.25" at most. If you run this spacer with out a body lift when at full stuff there is a huge chance you will hit the fender causing it to bend. Be careful. 1.5 pushes tire way out and fenders won't be happy.

 

[Fit4Action]

1.25" at most. If you run this spacer with out a body lift when at full stuff there is a huge chance you will hit the fender causing it to bend. Be careful. 1.5 pushes tire way out and fenders won't be happy.

Ok, do I get hub centric or lug centric spacers?

 

[AssBurns]

Always hub centric

 

[BrandonF]

1.25" at most. If you run this spacer with out a body lift when at full stuff there is a huge chance you will hit the fender causing it to bend. Be careful. 1.5 pushes tire way out and fenders won't be happy.

Yeah, I had to trim the bottom corners of my front fenders by the firewall for my 285's. However, I have 8" wide wheels with 4.5" backspacing + 1.25" spacers. At full bottom out, they don't touch the fender at the top of the wheel well but its close. 295's may touch it. Just remove your shock, put the tire back on, and raise the lower control arm with a floor jack until you hit bumpstop. This is the only way to ensure you won't rub at full lock and full compression.

 

[Fit4Action]

MAN, looks like you beat the crap outta the pinch weld.

Just got my spacers over at 4wheelparts. Ordered a Toytec BL so that will be in tomorrow. Should help with any clearing issues correct?



Would I even need to beat on my pinchweld after doing a BL with Spacers?

Probably a little trimming, but not nearly as much?

 

[JayRolla]

MAN, looks like you beat the crap outta the pinch weld.

Just got my spacers over at 4wheelparts. Ordered a Toytec BL so that will be in tomorrow. Should help with any clearing issues correct?



Would I even need to beat on my pinchweld after doing a BL with Spacers?

Probably a little trimming, but not nearly as much?

With my 1.5" body lift and 1.25" spacers my 305's cleared and didnt rub the pinchweld.

Once I installed SPC LR UCA's and aligned they rubbed pretty bad. I had to cut the flare and pinch weld to help clear. It still rubs a little when backing out down a curb and turning.

Thats even with the caster pushing the tire as far forward as the UCA's and LCA's will allow.

 

[Fit4Action]

With my 1.5" body lift and 1.25" spacers my 305's cleared and didnt rub the pinchweld.

Once I installed SPC LR UCA's and aligned they rubbed pretty bad. I had to cut the flare and pinch weld to help clear. It still rubs a little when backing out down a curb and turning.

Thats even with the caster pushing the tire as far forward as the UCA's and LCA's will allow.

I have been told if you wanted to go with a bodylift, that 2 inches is the sweetspot were they correct? or is 2 inches too much?

 

[JayRolla]

I have been told if you wanted to go with a bodylift, that 2 inches is the sweetspot were they correct? or is 2 inches too much?

I dont know really, preference I guess. All I know is 1.5" is almost needed to clear 35's. IMO 2" is too much. That little more makes it look pretty jacked up .

 

[Fit4Action]

I dont know really, preference I guess. All I know is 1.5" is almost needed to clear 35's. IMO 2" is too much. That little more makes it look pretty jacked up .

Heres how it sits right now tires mounted balanced with wheel spacers. VERY MINOR rubbing issues only with the fenders. No control arm issues that we can see at the moment.

Bodylift will be in tomorrow so it should be an interesting new awesome look.

What do yall think? Any input is super valuable at this stage since the tires are here to stay.

 

[nc-grayson]

Not much input other than it looks great!

 

[JayRolla]

Heres how it sits right now tires mounted balanced with wheel spacers. VERY MINOR rubbing issues only with the fenders. No control arm issues that we can see at the moment.

Bodylift will be in tomorrow so it should be an interesting new awesome look.

What do yall think? Any input is super valuable at this stage since the tires are here to stay.

Looks good. You need to fully flex it out to see where it rubs. Those are not to aggressive so they won't run as bad as my muds.

 

[papabeach]

I like it!

 

[AssBurns]

Looks killer man! Try to solve the rubbing issues before the BL. That way you don't need to run it if you eliminate all the rubbing. BL raises center of gravity so I always avoid that stuff whenever possible

 

[BrandonF]

Looks great. Very noticeably bigger than a 285.

 

[Fit4Action]

Looks killer man! Try to solve the rubbing issues before the BL. That way you don't need to run it if you eliminate all the rubbing. BL raises center of gravity so I always avoid that stuff whenever possible

Bro it seems impossible without it hahaha. I mean were talking intensive care unit surgery on fenders pinchweld..etc. But I guess that's the price you pay. I will let you guys know how today ends. I drove it home and tbere was no rubbing anywhere. But thats just flat streets. I knos I will for sure rub when flexed.

 

[AssBurns]

If you either have the tools or enough will, you can even make 35's fit. If you have access to a welder you can even cut out the spots it rubs and patch with more sheet metal. Here is a link from I found a while back.
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/news.php?id=48
Or you can do what I did and cut away what you can and hammer the rest. This way doesn't look as pretty but IMO it looks better and performs better than a BL. I actually don't even have a lift on my 2000 yet and I eliminated all my rubbing besides the frame at full lock and the UCA. I'm running 285/75r16 pro comp MT2's. If I were to do it again or if I ever go to 35's I will cut and patch with sheet metal.
I'm not saying don't do a BL but for Offroad purposes it is better to keep your COG lower as much as possible. And If you are going to need to raise your COG at least make it more suspension travel. BL does ra give you any more travel. Just think of a BL as a last option if you ever want to seriously wheel it. Lots of guys do it but there is always another way.

 

[JayRolla]

If you either have the tools or enough will, you can even make 35's fit. If you have access to a welder you can even cut out the spots it rubs and patch with more sheet metal. Here is a link from I found a while back.
4Runner on 35's... | Trails Less Traveled
Or you can do what I did and cut away what you can and hammer the rest. This way doesn't look as pretty but IMO it looks better and performs better than a BL. I actually don't even have a lift on my 2000 yet and I eliminated all my rubbing besides the frame at full lock and the UCA. I'm running 285/75r16 pro comp MT2's. If I were to do it again or if I ever go to 35's I will cut and patch with sheet metal.
I'm not saying don't do a BL but for Offroad purposes it is better to keep your COG lower as much as possible. And If you are going to need to raise your COG at least make it more suspension travel. BL does ra give you any more travel. Just think of a BL as a last option if you ever want to seriously wheel it. Lots of guys do it but there is always another way.

Or he can add a body lift. Man that was so much easier.

I wheel my rig pretty much as hard as it can go. I never have once felt like I was going over. 5" total lift and it feels fine. Anything over 1.5" is way too much. IMO he could even go with a .5-1" and its still easier than cutting and welding. The frame doesnt lift so gravity is not raised so much. Also having correct lenght sway bar links and keeping them connected helps a lot on the trail to keep you planted. Body roll puts you on the side more than a 1.5" body lift.

 

[AssBurns]

BL is definitely easier. I've worked for a couple Offroad shops and I've always been told to avoid BL as much as possible to avoid high COG. Not saying a BL is really bad but IMO it's just not preferred. It's all preference I guess. Do what's right for you man! Truck looks good with those tires forsure

 

[BrandonF]

Or he can add a body lift. Man that was so much easier.

I wheel my rig pretty much as hard as it can go. I never have once felt like I was going over. 5" total lift and it feels fine. Anything over 1.5" is way too much. IMO he could even go with a .5-1" and its still easier than cutting and welding. The frame doesnt lift so gravity is not raised so much. Also having correct lenght sway bar links and keeping them connected helps a lot on the trail to keep you planted. Body roll puts you on the side more than a 1.5" body lift.

Sorry but if you aren't lifting wheels and getting into tippy situations, you aren't wheeling your rig as hard as it can go. Those are the very situations where you find the limitations of your vehicle.

 

[TBuzz]

I think your truck looks great like that. I don't see the need for abody lift to clear 33's. If you look into some of the quality builds here most guys really tried to avoid this. Many just used a 1/2" for 33" and some an 1" for 35's as a last resort. We all have our favorite builds but I built my truck basing it off a few of the veterans experiences here. The majority of your rubbing should be on the rear of the drivers front fender. Some trimming and pw hammering should do the trick. I rub there on my limited flare now when turning bc my spacers are back on, but only in extreme flex. But that's when I'm actually wheeling. Driving around on dirt roads looking for a rock to park on for a picture is not wheeling. A body lift will obv create gap between your stock bumpers. And be aware that once you get 33's and a few more parts, no one that struggles to have 35's on their truck is going to go any farther than you.
I don't know how a body lit can gain you an clearance or save your rocker panels. I think the sliders are for that and my skid plates would hit before the body ever did.