Question on speaker swap

[Cygan1008]

My front 6x9s for my jbl synthesis system are shot and I can't afford to gut and redo the entire setup so i have to replace them. My question is has anyone replaced them with 2 way 6x9's before and what were the results? I am thinking it could pose a problem since it seems that those speakers only handle mid bass and the tweeter on the 2 ways is subsequently going to sound like poo.....

Or should I do component 6.5s, replace the stock 6x9 with the 6.5" woofer and then swap the stock tweeter for the component tweeter without the components cross over?????

This is driving me insane trying to get this figured out and there is NOTHING online about this other than just gut your system and start new. NOT AN OPTION haha. I just want something thats not blown and sounds ok. The stock system sounded great but I'm scared to buy used speakers from someone.

Please help me. I'm trying to get this stuff ordered and replaced asap its been nearly a month with blown speakers so basically no radio....

 

[jimithing]

Have you looked at the speakers to see exactly what is wrong with them? if it's just the foam surround that's cracked you can probably get a repair kit on Ebay. I did that for my wife's Jeep that has an Infinity system. It also sucks to replace individual components on it so that's why I went for the repair. I did the repair about 2 years ago and so far it still sounds great.

 

[zopperman]

Alpine type s 6x9. Couldn't be happier.

 

[Cygan1008]

Have you looked at the speakers to see exactly what is wrong with them? if it's just the foam surround that's cracked you can probably get a repair kit on Ebay. I did that for my wife's Jeep that has an Infinity system. It also sucks to replace individual components on it so that's why I went for the repair. I did the repair about 2 years ago and so far it still sounds great.

I took them out thinking it was just the foam around the cones but the speakers look just fine. Its something "mechanical" with the speakers i guess. I obviously don't know enough about stereo systems lol. I did see the foam kits and stuff so I was hoping it was just that but no such luck.

 

[Cygan1008]

Alpine type s 6x9. Couldn't be happier.

Awesome. Thanks I was going Infinity Reference 6x9 since they are 2 ohm which is what i have found on the factory setup so this info is exactly what i was looking for thanks.

 

[riceandpho]

pioneer also makes drop in replacement speaker, i think is the g seiries.

 

[MikeInNH]

Just going to replace them the one thing you want to try and match is the efficiency rating. This will tell you how little power a speaker needs. By matching them you then can expect the same loudness at the same setting. This isn't a problem if the system only has one set of speakers...but with mis-matched efficiency then it could become a problem. If the new speakers are MORE efficient..they could drown out the other speakers...if they are LESS efficient....you may not even hear them. So keep the efficiency rating as close as possible. You can find a very wide range out there.

Speakers like Bose are usually very inefficient. Around the mid 80's db level. While JBL is usually VERY efficient - usually in the low to mid 90's db. That would mean you'd have to put in almost 10 times of power into the Bose to sound as loud as the JBL's.

 

[Cygan1008]

Thank you. I think these infinity's will be just what the dr ordered then. They are basically identical to the JBL GTO series in specs and have a 94bd rating. I was going to go with the JBL's but they say 2 ohm and then later on say true 4 ohm technology so I dont know what the **** they really are. These infinity's sound like the way to go.

For anyone interested I WILL be doing a follow up post on this as soon as its done in an effort to try and assist anyone that may be thinking of doing the same. I am actually going to replace th 6x9s, 6.5s and the sub woofer with what I beleive will be as close to straight drop ins s possible.

I'm not going for improoved sound I just want to replace blown components so we will see how it goes.

Side note, I read that the stock 6x9 driver has a built in cross over the powers the tweeter so if I switch to different speakers then I loose the stock tweeter...... Anyone heard of this? I thought the cross over signals were al from the radio/amp which is why this system is such a pain in the a$$ in the first place.

 

[zopperman]

It does have a stock crossover right by the speaker, but I didn't lose tweeters?

 

[Cygan1008]

Alright, it is all ordered and should be here by the end of the week. Luckily I'm off all weekend so there should be a follow up posted soon.
This is what is going in:
Infinity Reference 9632cf (2ohm 6x9" 2way)
Infinity Reference 6032cf (2ohm 6.5" 2 way)
Kicker 40CWD82 (2ohm dual voice coil sub)
Metra speaker adapters (i'm lazy)
AUX 3.5 Input Module (plugs in where the cd changer plug is)

Just realized today that it sounds like the tweeters in the rear hatch area are blown to so if this works out I will start the search for mid/high range tweeter to replace those with.

 

[Cygan1008]

For those interested....
The sub (Kicker 40CWD82) came in yesterday and is now installed. It is about as close to a direct drop in as we can get I guess. It is actually a smaller diameter than the stock sub and a little deeper so I made an adaptor ring out of 3/4" ply wood using a jig saw. Marked the stock holes, drilled them and mounted the adaptor in place. Then took the stock sub power wires and took the clips apart which reveals the standard speaker wire blade connectors inside. Plugged the wires in. Screwed the sub into place and then cranked it up. It sounds really good. I can't compare it to a stock sub because mine was blown when I bought it but it is a very clean sound.

 

[zopperman]

For those interested....
The sub (Kicker 40CWD82) came in yesterday and is now installed. It is about as close to a direct drop in as we can get I guess. It is actually a smaller diameter than the stock sub and a little deeper so I made an adaptor ring out of 3/4" ply wood using a jig saw. Marked the stock holes, drilled them and mounted the adaptor in place. Then took the stock sub power wires and took the clips apart which reveals the standard speaker wire blade connectors inside. Plugged the wires in. Screwed the sub into place and then cranked it up. It sounds really good. I can't compare it to a stock sub because mine was blown when I bought it but it is a very clean sound.

Did you add an extra amp for the sub?

 

[Cygan1008]

NOPE! stock amp and wiring. This sub is dual voice coil 2ohm same as stock. A different amp would undoubtedly sound better but I was going for straight stock speaker replacement.

 

[riverwolf]

Alright, it is all ordered and should be here by the end of the week. Luckily I'm off all weekend so there should be a follow up posted soon.
This is what is going in:
Infinity Reference 9632cf (2ohm 6x9" 2way)
Infinity Reference 6032cf (2ohm 6.5" 2 way)
Kicker 40CWD82 (2ohm dual voice coil sub)
Metra speaker adapters (i'm lazy)
AUX 3.5 Input Module (plugs in where the cd changer plug is)

Just realized today that it sounds like the tweeters in the rear hatch area are blown to so if this works out I will start the search for mid/high range tweeter to replace those with.

I wouldn't bother replacing the rear 65mm drivers. They're wired in mono...kind of a rear center speaker. If they're really blown, just disconnect them; the grill pops right off. The rear door 6.5"s will handle your full range rear fill without them.

BTW, the door, center dash, and rear "tweeters" really aren't tweeters. They're full range 2.5" drivers with a simple capacitor on them to filter out bass...I'd say round 200Hz judging by ear. The door 6x9s are run full range with no filter.

-Brent

 

[Cygan1008]

I wouldn't bother replacing the rear 65mm drivers. They're wired in mono...kind of a rear center speaker. If they're really blown, just disconnect them; the grill pops right off. The rear door 6.5"s will handle your full range rear fill without them.

BTW, the door, center dash, and rear "tweeters" really aren't tweeters. They're full range 2.5" drivers with a simple capacitor on them to filter out bass...I'd say round 200Hz judging by ear. The door 6x9s are run full range with no filter.

-Brent

Oh OK, well that's very good info Thank You very much. Any suggestions on replacing them as they go? Is it even worth it? Do they pull power from the 6x9s supy or does the amp run wires directly to them?

 

[zopperman]

Oh OK, well that's very good info Thank You very much. Any suggestions on replacing them as they go? Is it even worth it? Do they pull power from the 6x9s supy or does the amp run wires directly to them?

Replacing them with 1" tweeters tremendously improved my sound system and brough it more level with my ears.

 

[riverwolf]

Oh OK, well that's very good info Thank You very much. Any suggestions on replacing them as they go? Is it even worth it? Do they pull power from the 6x9s supy or does the amp run wires directly to them?

The front door 6x9 and 65mm driver are wired in parallel on one channel of the amp. The cap on the 65mm driver effectively blocks frequencies below ~200hz (not measured, just a guestimate). Above the xover frequency they will be playing together since there doesn't appear to be a xover on the 6x9, however its impedance will rise with frequency so power drawn will diminish with rising frequency.

Maybe I'm an oddball, but using a traditional component system with 1" tweeter doesn't seem terribly desirable given the mid-woofer's location. If you look at a chart showing the frequency ranges of musical instruments, you'll see that the majority of sound is well below the 2kHz-5kHz typically used for the woofer/tweeter xover frequency. This means that a majority of your music will be aimed at your ankles with a typical component system. The lower in frequency you can get the "tweeter" replacement to play, the better, IMHO. A little searching will show threads where some have successfully replaced the 65mm drivers with 3.5" coaxials.

If you want to say with full range drivers, but don't want to go OEM, you might can find a full range 2.5" or 3" driver from somebody like Parts-Express or Madisound that will fit. If I ever get ambitious enough to swap speakers, this driver is on my short list. Dimensional drawing suggests its real close to being a drop in replacement.

 

[Cygan1008]

I found where a few people have used the 3.5" infinity's but I didnt exactly want to go beating dents in my door to make it fit. I am going to check into the Dayton you linked.

I got the 6x9 and 6.5s in today. Sounds WAY better then the crackeled up noise I had befor but holy crap was it a pain in my A$$ to make it work. The infinity 6x9s were to large and and the 6.5s were to small to fit the stock spaces. Finally got them in though and it does sound good. I am still very impressed with the little kicker sub running on the stock amp.