Quick question for timing belt change

[Atlanta_man]

I did rad hoses last year. That bottom one took some real work to get it off. Factory epoxy ?

 

[Unner]

I have changed mine out, but did it by removing the alternator and going through the wheel well. Not fun, but I really only saw a slight advantage (frees up a little more space) to performing this preventative maintenance with no timing belt so I did it at a later time.

Crank seal with the right tool takes all of maybe 10 minutes. I didn't do the cam seals since in the twenty timing belts jobs I have done over the years the bolts for the cam gears to remove can be a royal PITA. I had to use a 1" impact once. And they weren't leaking.

My advice Unner is to post a thread about two weeks or so before you do the job. You will get advice and the like. But if you have done the rear axle seal and the like, the TB job won't be hard with the right tools.

One to get ya going:
New Timing Belt Water-Pump 5vz-fe 3.4L Write-up for Review - YotaTech Forums

That's an awesome write up, exactly what I had been searching for but couldn't find. Very well written with good pictures. The cam seals do seem like a pain to get to, if mine aren't leaking I'll probably just leave those. What are the right tools for removing and replacing the crank seal?

Also, am I reading it right that you did the oil cooler hoses at a separate time from the timing belt change? If they aren't expensive I may order them and just keep them on hand in-case mine are looking rough.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Yep, did the oil cooler hoses probably six months later. I used a Matco pair similar to these to remove the hose clamps:
Amazon.com: OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers: Automotive

And a pair of pliers similar to these to remove and install the hoses:
Mac Tools New 11" Long Reach Medium Hose 3 4" Gripper Plier P301788 | eBay

The Lisle seal puller which makes pulling most shallow recessed seals a breeze. $15 on Amazon. To see my pic go to page 3 of the link from YT, not the write up itself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrVwf6BHLTw

 

[kball]

I plan to change the radiator hoses as well as the radiator when I do mine. What kind of shape were those oil cooler hoses in when you pulled them off? I've seen a few posts about them, but not a lot. I don't recall anyone having issues with them either. I would just hate to replace them and have an issue with them because I messed with them. I think that's my mindset for the cam and crank seals as well, if they aren't leaking when I get in there.

Mine had 190K on them so they looked.... old. I haven't heard of them failing and getting to them is a pain no matter if doing the TB or not so it's up to you. Just thought I'd bring it up.

 

[Unner]

Yep, did the oil cooler hoses probably six months later. I used a Matco pair similar to these to remove the hose clamps:
Amazon.com: OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers: Automotive

And a pair of pliers similar to these to remove and install the hoses:
Mac Tools New 11" Long Reach Medium Hose 3 4" Gripper Plier P301788 | eBay

The Lisle seal puller which makes pulling most shallow recessed seals a breeze. $15 on Amazon. To see my pic go to page 3 of the link from YT, not the write up itself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrVwf6BHLTw

Thanks for the links. That seal puller looks like a great tool. So simple, but effective. I'll probably be picking one of those up. Two more questions for now. How does the crank gear come off? Does it just slide off the crank?

Also, is it recommended to replace that fan bracket while I'm in there as a just in case?

Mine had 190K on them so they looked.... old. I haven't heard of them failing and getting to them is a pain no matter if doing the TB or not so it's up to you. Just thought I'd bring it up.

I'll have probably a little under 180k by the time I get to changing everything. I may just pick up the hoses and keep them on hand if I don't change them when I do the timing belt. I don't plan to get rid of the 4Runner any time soon and I may just get bored one Saturday and decide to replace them. I've still got my Inner and outer tie rods sitting in a box. I can't wait until late September when the temperatures return to reasonable here...

Sorry for derailing the thread OP, but I think this is all good info to have out there. Thanks so much to everyone helping out with my questions!

 

[LittleCaesar]

Yep, the crank gear just slides off.

The balancer can be a PITA if rusted on, but being in Bama, I doubt it. My brother has used his Harbor Freight one a lot for such and other applications:
Pittsburgh Automotive Bolt Type Wheel Puller Set | eBay

I had found an Aisin fan bracket for $60 on Ebay some time back so I bought it to replace mine at 110,000 miles. Did it need it? Not really. I would say that if the fan clutch is original you may want to invest in an new Aisin down the road.

This kit has all you want, Toyota OEM, except for new upper and lower radiator hoses, an OEM cap, and coolant.
Genuine Toyota 3 4 Liter 5VZFE V6 Complete 15pcs Timing Belt Pump Kit | eBay

 

[Unner]

Yep, the crank gear just slides off.

The balancer can be a PITA if rusted on, but being in Bama, I doubt it. My brother has used his Harbor Freight one a lot for such and other applications:
Pittsburgh Automotive Bolt Type Wheel Puller Set | eBay

I had found an Aisin fan bracket for $60 on Ebay some time back so I bought it to replace mine at 110,000 miles. Did it need it? Not really. I would say that if the fan clutch is original you may want to invest in an new Aisin down the road.

This kit has all you want, Toyota OEM, except for new upper and lower radiator hoses, an OEM cap, and coolant.
Genuine Toyota 3 4 Liter 5VZFE V6 Complete 15pcs Timing Belt Pump Kit | eBay

I don't think there will be any rust issues, the truck has virtually no rust anywhere. If I need a puller there's a harbor freight just down the road as well as every car parts store located within a mile of each other. If the crank gear just pulls off I'll probably change that seal then because of the ease. If the cam ones aren't leaking I'll let them be, and I may just let the fan bracket be too. It looks like they run about $110 on rockauto and with the kit, radiator, hoses, and the few tools I don't have this'll run me about $500.

A lot but still a lot better than the $1200-$1500 I was quoted to have everything replaced including pulleys and tensioners. Those quotes didn't include a radiator either though. All the places I called didn't seem to want to replace the pulleys and tensioner because "I don't need it" but I think my tensioner may be worn from reading that YT thread because my truck runs a little over 200F right now normally so the pump may not be working as much as it should be.

I think the fan clutch is still original too but when I spun it a little while back it seemed fine. I'll check it again though to make sure before I rip everything apart. Worst case I replace the bracket, clutch and everything else for $700 and have another worry free 180k miles ahead of me.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I'd replace the tensioner in a skinny minute, almost mandatory. If you are lucky like Kball you can take a swivel 1/4" 10mm socket to get to one of the bolts that is holding the tensioner to the block from underneath. I tried, broke the pawl in my 1/4 ratchet, cursed Kball a good dozen times, then proceeded to remove the AC compressor from the block and move it out of the way. If you have to go this route, a short (stubby) ratcheting 14mm wrench is your friend especially for putting the bolts back in.

You should be able just to pull the crank gear off. Be careful not to damage the teeth though. You can even rent a harmonic balancer pulley kit at some stores.

200F at idle, driving, or both?

 

[KainDrag]

I'd replace the tensioner in a skinny minute, almost mandatory. If you are lucky like Kball you can take a swivel 1/4" 10mm socket to get to one of the bolts that is holding the tensioner to the block from underneath. I tried, broke the pawl in my 1/4 ratchet, cursed Kball a good dozen times, then proceeded to remove the AC compressor from the block and move it out of the way. If you have to go this route, a short (stubby) ratcheting 14mm wrench is your friend especially for putting the bolts back in.

You should be able just to pull the crank gear off. Be careful not to damage the teeth though. You can even rent a harmonic balancer pulley kit at some stores.

200F at idle, driving, or both?

This is what i did, used like 10 extensions that were swivels and got the tensioner from underneath.

I can sell you my harmonic balancer that I bought if you want it, it's oem.

 

[Unner]

I'd replace the tensioner in a skinny minute, almost mandatory. If you are lucky like Kball you can take a swivel 1/4" 10mm socket to get to one of the bolts that is holding the tensioner to the block from underneath. I tried, broke the pawl in my 1/4 ratchet, cursed Kball a good dozen times, then proceeded to remove the AC compressor from the block and move it out of the way. If you have to go this route, a short (stubby) ratcheting 14mm wrench is your friend especially for putting the bolts back in.

You should be able just to pull the crank gear off. Be careful not to damage the teeth though. You can even rent a harmonic balancer pulley kit at some stores.

200F at idle, driving, or both?

Yeah I plan to replace the tensioner definitely while I'm in there. No one that I called really seemed like they wanted to replace the tensioner or idler pulleys. Not sure why, I guess most people don't even know what that is so no one ever mentions it....

After helping a friend do brakes on his A4(worst brake experience ever) I think I need to invest in a set of ratcheting wrenches. I'm kinda hoping I can get the tensioner off without pulling the AC compressor though.

If I let it warm up in the driveway to running temperature it might read about 195 or so, driving around the city I see 202-204 or so, and on the highway I see probably 190-198 unless I'm really pushing it up a steep hill or so it might climb up to 204 or so.

 

[KainDrag]

Yeah I plan to replace the tensioner definitely while I'm in there. No one that I called really seemed like they wanted to replace the tensioner or idler pulleys. Not sure why, I guess most people don't even know what that is so no one ever mentions it....

After helping a friend do brakes on his A4(worst brake experience ever) I think I need to invest in a set of ratcheting wrenches. I'm kinda hoping I can get the tensioner off without pulling the AC compressor though.

If I let it warm up in the driveway to running temperature it might read about 195 or so, driving around the city I see 202-204 or so, and on the highway I see probably 190-198 unless I'm really pushing it up a steep hill or so it might climb up to 204 or so.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLRUdVLgT-Q

Start it at 30 seconds