Radiator bypass...

ajonesnv

ajonesnv

New member
My choice to bypass the radiator was based off of a logical, factual &...well great thread on the matter. Bypass the OE tranny cooler? - YotaTech Forums

The strawberry milkshake is obviously an issue, many guys on this board and others have had it happened and lost their tranny.

So here is the route I took. I bought the largest cooler to fit. I went with the B&M 70266, which is 11x8.5x1.5. I would recommend the TruCool 4589 and heres why; they are the same size, if fact the same cooler (manufactured by Long) the benefit of the TruCool is it has a built in bypass and welded on barbs. the B&M requires fittings to be installed and does not have the bypass. So if you are in cooler climates then you will need an external bypass.

IMG_2349.jpg~original
The finished install. I realize the sensor is in a far less than optimal position, but Im going to move it when I get the external bypass. Ill wait till closer to winter to do so. I also used my old cooler to my power steering.

IMG_2344.jpg~original
I had to do some modification to get it to fit...as I said it was the largest I could get to fit.

IMG_2340.jpg
IMG_2339.jpg~original
I spaced the condensor towards to radiator a bit, for some added confort.

Anyways...I hope this install is some help to anyone. I highly recommend the yodatech thread for any info on this.
 
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It's too bad we can't get a discussion going here in our own forum on the pros and cons of bypassing the radiator. That would be awesome...
 
How exactly does the external by pass work? I tried to do a couple google searchs but no real success.

Is it just a thermostat which opens to the cooler once a temp is reached or does it actually loop the fluid back to the trans without going through the cooler? It also looks like you have two coolers installed is that just replacing one or how is that system working?
 
Steve240 said:
How exactly does the external by pass work? I tried to do a couple google searchs but no real success.

Is it just a thermostat which opens to the cooler once a temp is reached or does it actually loop the fluid back to the trans without going through the cooler? It also looks like you have two coolers installed is that just replacing one or how is that system working?
Click to expand...

It loops the fluid back to the transmission until the temp exceeds the threshold, in which it will allow the fluid to the cooler. I assume that there are different temp thresholds, but I think typically its around 180.

Also, the second cooler is for the Power Steering.
 
The LPD sensor for my B&M 70264 is 180, even though it seems to start around 170.

Ajonesnv, that thing is massive. Do you need the cooler for the power steering?
 
If the radiator is much more than 10-12 years old it should be replaced anyway and if I did that I don't see why I'd worry about an external cooler unless I towed alot.

Off road the OEM tranny cooler in the radiator is more efficient at slow speeds more than the external which needs constant airflow to make a difference so if the radiator is new you're good for another 10 years.
 
LittleCaesar said:
The LPD sensor for my B&M 70264 is 180, even though it seems to start around 170.

Ajonesnv, that thing is massive. Do you need the cooler for the power steering?
Click to expand...

Probably dont need it, however it was one I was not using so it couldn't hurt. If anything its given me added capacity.
 
RonMAIDEN said:
If the radiator is much more than 10-12 years old it should be replaced anyway and if I did that I don't see why I'd worry about an external cooler unless I towed alot.

Off road the OEM tranny cooler in the radiator is more efficient at slow speeds more than the external which needs constant airflow to make a difference so if the radiator is new you're good for another 10 years.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Two reasons, 1. At slow speeds like that the engine is running hotter too, so the coolant isn't going to offer too much additional cooling below the engine temp...have you ever seen the "cooler" in the radiator. You can at best call it a operating temp heater. 2. The same air flow the radiator is getting the trans cooler is getting with hell of a lot more coverage. The fan will give it constant flow, less than driving but constant.

With a item that has a fail rate that it does you cant just say replace it and forget it. In all reality you may be right, but Ive read guys posts where they had a blown radiator at under 75,000 just like the one at 175,000. For some never. I dont care for the risk involved, so it makes perfect sense to remove the risk.
 
Gotcha ajonesnv; if I wheeled a good bit in the desert, mountains, etc., I'd have a PS cooler as well, or at least a Magnefine on the return line.

If I was a desert rat, I'd go with a tranny cooler setup similar to what this guy has on his jeep:
Transmission cooler with Spal fan

There was some guy on Yotatech some years ago who wheeled a great deal somewhere in NV, blew his transmission, got IPT to rebuild it, and it still went out on him 60,000 miles later. No transmission cooler used at any time. Heat, more than anything, kills transmissions IMO.
 
So I live in 120 degree AZ. I am currently running a 70268 as my tranny cooler (not in series with the radiator). Am I providing enough cooling to the tranny? Also, what type of cooler would you guys recommend for PS?
 
Absalom,

I'd first try and get a reading of the ATF temp just to gauge whether you are good to go or need more cooling ability using a Scangauge or the like.

As long as the cooler is mounted right up against the condenser and is in front of the fan, you should be good to go.

PS, eh, I'd say anything the size of the 70268 or smaller. Others may chime in who have more experience.
 
As far as PS cooler, consider whats cooling it now...nothing, so anything is better than nothing. Most PS coolers are very small. I just went with what I have because I already owned it.
 
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