raKnizek's 2000 SR5 Maintenance and Build
- Thread starter raKnizek
- Start date
raKnizek
Member
Not really proud of my work here but I got my platform "done". I am not a woodworker but I have ideas for what I can do better with a V2 someday. Didn't help that the wood I used ended up being very warped. I also used those 2x6 boards because I was planning to make drawers. Once it was clear the quality was not what I dreamed up I scratched that plan for now. I will just use some plastic bins.
I have two compartments right behind the back seat that flip up and the side lids of course. Tied down with turnbuckles. The front edge is cut at an angle that matches the angle of the rear seat backrest to maximize space. A second piece attaches to form a sleeping platform with the rear seats flipped up. It is held on with two hasps normally used for a gate. Probably the only innovative thing I did here. Cant have things moving around or act as a projectile in the event of an accident.
I have two compartments right behind the back seat that flip up and the side lids of course. Tied down with turnbuckles. The front edge is cut at an angle that matches the angle of the rear seat backrest to maximize space. A second piece attaches to form a sleeping platform with the rear seats flipped up. It is held on with two hasps normally used for a gate. Probably the only innovative thing I did here. Cant have things moving around or act as a projectile in the event of an accident.
raKnizek
Member
Interior lighting again
This must be the 3rd time I have done this but after messing with colors and whatnot I just went with the tried and true white LEDs. Should have done it from the start as there are basically no hotspots and it works well with the colored overlays used for the climate and other areas. Brightness is cranked just for the picture. I left some orange LEDs where hot spots were not an issue.
This must be the 3rd time I have done this but after messing with colors and whatnot I just went with the tried and true white LEDs. Should have done it from the start as there are basically no hotspots and it works well with the colored overlays used for the climate and other areas. Brightness is cranked just for the picture. I left some orange LEDs where hot spots were not an issue.
raKnizek
Member
Exterior lighting
Remade my little license plate light bar and swapped out the cheap pods for two Diode Dynamics Stage Series 6" light bars to act as fog lights. These are the SAE fog lens and I am very pleased. They are fun off road but honestly this was my solution for rainy weather night driving (a rare occurrence anyway) where the stock headlights fall on their face. Rather than doing retrofits.
If anyone has light bar to stock bumper mounting recommendations I am open.
I had ditch light brackets with no lights for around 8 months... Finally put on some Diode Dynamics Pro pod lights in the flood pattern.
Made my own harnesses. Just a glimpse of them here but this is cathartic and satisfying work if you invest in some decent tools. Everything is hooked up to an auxiliary fuse block under the hood. Standard stuff there.
Updated my switches accordingly. The green is left over from my first LED interior swap but oh well. Not worth buying new switches just for the color at the moment.
Remade my little license plate light bar and swapped out the cheap pods for two Diode Dynamics Stage Series 6" light bars to act as fog lights. These are the SAE fog lens and I am very pleased. They are fun off road but honestly this was my solution for rainy weather night driving (a rare occurrence anyway) where the stock headlights fall on their face. Rather than doing retrofits.
If anyone has light bar to stock bumper mounting recommendations I am open.
I had ditch light brackets with no lights for around 8 months... Finally put on some Diode Dynamics Pro pod lights in the flood pattern.
Made my own harnesses. Just a glimpse of them here but this is cathartic and satisfying work if you invest in some decent tools. Everything is hooked up to an auxiliary fuse block under the hood. Standard stuff there.
Updated my switches accordingly. The green is left over from my first LED interior swap but oh well. Not worth buying new switches just for the color at the moment.
JZiggy
Senior Member
[MENTION=143215]raKnizek[/MENTION] Nice build thread buddy!
I am planning a very similar lift to what you did back in 2017. My current ride height is basically the same as yours pre-lift and I'm shooting for the same (or slightly less) height than you gained with your lift.
I'll be using a Dobinsons kit with IMS shocks and JBA UCAs + PCK of course. Just wanted to query you on a few things:
- How did the ride quality change after the lift?
- Are you happy with the JBAs? What caster did you dial in when aligned?
- Why are the front control arm bumpstop extensions necessary?
- Would you do anything different if you had to do it over again?
Thanks!
I am planning a very similar lift to what you did back in 2017. My current ride height is basically the same as yours pre-lift and I'm shooting for the same (or slightly less) height than you gained with your lift.
I'll be using a Dobinsons kit with IMS shocks and JBA UCAs + PCK of course. Just wanted to query you on a few things:
- How did the ride quality change after the lift?
- Are you happy with the JBAs? What caster did you dial in when aligned?
- Why are the front control arm bumpstop extensions necessary?
- Would you do anything different if you had to do it over again?
Thanks!
raKnizek
Member
Thank you!
Interested to see what you think of the Dobinsons. I see the brand mentioned a lot recently. Maybe they will become the new bread and butter recommendation for 3rd gens?
The ride is undoubtedly more firm after lifting. But remember most people, myself included, are comparing old worn out suspension with brand new stuff and unless you're the original owner, or have driven one with new stock suspension, it may not be the most genuine comparison. That being said the ride feels more refined and the shocks take the edge off bumps much better. The body is very well controlled over bumps (with stock sway bars and extended links) despite being taller. It almost feels sporty in its own way. But you will feel that extra height during higher speed turns as it leans in with a notable (but predictable) delay relative to the steering input.
Tires made almost as big of a difference in my opinion. I tried load E General grabbers and it was too rough for me. Even with the new suspension. Moving to a load C helped solve that. But every tire will be different. Adding to that, mud terrain tires made my steering a bit more vague and it has a different response than with the all terrains (or highway tires).
JBAs are great. I replaced the bushings after not many miles but I did not grease them as much as I should have. And the bushings have been redesigned since then with channels to allow for better grease distribution. I have felt that they have allowed for the travel my coil-overs have. Owner and customer service have been excellent too. I even got an email reminder to grease the bushings based on when I purchased them.
I do not believe those front bump stop spacers were needed. I just did not know at the time and have since removed them. I should probably get the front DuroBumps to match the rear.
I don't think there is anything major I would do differently. Maybe get the rear DuroBumps from the start. The stock ones are just super hard. Other than that maybe I would just go for a 2.5 rear. More to future-proof rather than outright necessity. I would love to try other setups, too.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Yes I have seen a lot of feedback that Dobs shocks provide a comfortable ride... we'll see I guess. Right now I have stock 99 springs with 4600s and airbags in the back. It rides a little stiff but it's not too bad. Does not soak up big bumps well... honestly our little 2000 CRV does a much better job at that!
Thanks for the feedback. How much did you have to extend your swaybar links with that level of lift?
raKnizek
Member
You may want to double check me on this but I am pretty sure I used 3rd gen rear links up front and 2nd gen front links in the rear. It is some confusing combo like that but it is a relatively common change to get a little extra length. Should be able to confirm that with a search.
I also dug up my alignment sheet. I believe this is my most recent one. Camber is 2.7 degrees right and 3.1 left. Specified range is 2.3-3.8, so all good!
raKnizek
Member
Gas tank skid plate
Finally got myself Lil Skip's gas tank skid. This thing is well made and beefy. Fits right at home with the front and center skids already on the truck.
I also repurposed my old LED pods as reverse lights and put them on an independent circuit. I felt a little bad about cutting the dash to install the 3-switch bracket but it turned out nice and fits in well I think.
Finally got myself Lil Skip's gas tank skid. This thing is well made and beefy. Fits right at home with the front and center skids already on the truck.
I also repurposed my old LED pods as reverse lights and put them on an independent circuit. I felt a little bad about cutting the dash to install the 3-switch bracket but it turned out nice and fits in well I think.
raKnizek
Member
Compression Test
I decided to do a compression test, mostly just for fun and curiosity. I ended up with a Mityvac electronic kit and I have never performed a compression test so I decided to give it a go.
The numbers look decent, too, but the biggest difference is 18.5 and the FSM mentions 15 as the largest ideal spread.
#1: 191.5
#2: 200.5
#3: 182.0
#4: 187.0
#5: 198.0
#6: 188.0
I decided to do a compression test, mostly just for fun and curiosity. I ended up with a Mityvac electronic kit and I have never performed a compression test so I decided to give it a go.
The numbers look decent, too, but the biggest difference is 18.5 and the FSM mentions 15 as the largest ideal spread.
#1: 191.5
#2: 200.5
#3: 182.0
#4: 187.0
#5: 198.0
#6: 188.0
raKnizek
Member
Been a little while.
Nothing drastic but still messing around with suspension settings. Put 906's in the rear, which was long over due. Much better stiffness balance for my overall setup. The rear height is much better too, at about an inch less than both the 890's and Dobinsons springs. I also had the front coil overs rebuilt. Other odds and ends like front braided brake lines and durobump bump stops.
Had the front seats redone as well. New Toyota bottom cushions, which were not easy to find. I used covers from UsAutoSeatCover. It was the most reasonable option in the end. Katzkin didn't have the right pattern and having the upholstry shop make custom covers would have been too much. Happy with the end result. The stitching on the covers could have been better but the price was right and the color match is great.
I also recessed my fog lights into the bumper so they didnt stick out passed the already fat bumper.
Nothing drastic but still messing around with suspension settings. Put 906's in the rear, which was long over due. Much better stiffness balance for my overall setup. The rear height is much better too, at about an inch less than both the 890's and Dobinsons springs. I also had the front coil overs rebuilt. Other odds and ends like front braided brake lines and durobump bump stops.
Had the front seats redone as well. New Toyota bottom cushions, which were not easy to find. I used covers from UsAutoSeatCover. It was the most reasonable option in the end. Katzkin didn't have the right pattern and having the upholstry shop make custom covers would have been too much. Happy with the end result. The stitching on the covers could have been better but the price was right and the color match is great.
I also recessed my fog lights into the bumper so they didnt stick out passed the already fat bumper.
