Really bad rust!

S

shahsmerdis

New member
Hi all,

Just got major service done on my car. He is a family friend, and he pointed out we have a lot of rust on the body. No one ever washed the car, and it lives in NYC. Family friend offered to let me use his lift tomorrow when the his shop isn't busy to spray paint the underbody. I was so happy he offered, but I don't think I'll have time to to prep the surface and grind off all the rust. I live 250 miles away or else I would have gone all out. Also would have been ready with more products but I didn't think he would let me use the lift by myself. I plan on getting a rust treatment when I'm back home, but I thought if i can get 3-4 cans before I go home I wouldn't hurt.

He suggested I just go to home depot buy couple of spray cans of black paint and spray whatever I can in like 30 min.



Let me ask you guys, is there any product that I can just spray on rust to hold it for a few weeks until I find a shop to do the rust treatment, or am I just wasting my time and I should have the shop do it. I won't have time to pressure wash, or scrub the underbody. Just time to spray paint a few cans.

I was thinking a few cans of Rust-Oleum on the really bad parts.


Thanks!
 

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How do the other parts of the frame look? That looks like the part right under the radiator? Honestly I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'd probably just get some sand paper or a metal brush and wipe off as much as I could in a short period of time and then spray coat it with undercoating.
 
Freyer said:
How do the other parts of the frame look? That looks like the part right under the radiator? Honestly I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'd probably just get some sand paper or a metal brush and wipe off as much as I could in a short period of time and then spray coat it with undercoating.
Click to expand...

Yeah that is right under the radiator,

Very similar, not as concentrated as that, but it is in patches. I really wish I brought my grinder.

which rust coating would you use? Im probably limited to home depot here...

Thanks!
 
I have bad rust in that exact spot. And mine's a California car its whole life. That exact spot in your picture, the hook can be pulled off by hand. The bottom portion is rusted out and flaking red metal pieces.
 
I clicked on this thread expecting to see really bad rust.. um,that's not really bad rust....

For a temporary solution anything from home depot will be better than leaving it uncoated during winter (surface prep is critical to whatever you apply). The best Long term solution is POR-15 (do it once, do it right) or you could apply semiannual applications of fluid film.

good luck
 
shahsmerdis said:
Yeah that is right under the radiator,

Very similar, not as concentrated as that, but it is in patches. I really wish I brought my grinder.

which rust coating would you use? Im probably limited to home depot here...

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Just go to advance auto/napa or your equivalent and get the "best" quality undercoat you can find. I think the one I used was made by dupli color. It won't last forever, but it's not that expensive, so you can touch it up later or if any scrapes off on rocks. I hit most areas under my truck (used about 3 cans). Also, fluid film on items like bolts in door jams helps too.
 
Get some rust converter, take a wire brush and knock off the scale, spray with converter then later spray some paint on it. Next summer take a wire wheel on a grinder and get busy with it. You can do that laying on the ground even, I do. I live in Northern Michigan so I know all to well about salt, dirt and rust. Fun stuff! lol Good luck man.
 
CXS said:
^ This!

It's the best way to deal with rust. Anything else is strictly a coverup that won't last.
Click to expand...

Its great stuff, just need to apply properly. I would order POR15's "Starter Kit" for this type of application (includes the cleaner & etch prep spray).
 
Rust converter is superior to just POR15. The chemical reaction with rust converter/naval jelly transforms the rust into an inert form of iron oxide, so it will not continue rusting in the future.

As someone else said, knock off the scale, put rust converter on it (liberally, preferably twice or three times), then clean and paint. Should be good to go for a long long time.
 
CXS said:
Like all topics here there are different opinions. Having used both I'll stick with POR-15 but anyone can try whatever they want - just not on my truck!
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POR-15 on top of a converted rust surface is the best of both worlds since it is a durable coating, but putting POR-15 on active rust is just asking for it to resurface.

The main problem is that regular rust is not chemically stable, so it will continue to corrode with ANY oxygen being present. As it corrodes, the outer surface has no more mechanical support, so it falls away. Therefore any coatings put on the outer layer of rust tend to not stick around for the long term, as it doesn't take much of a defect in the coating to kick the corrosion back into high gear.

Converting the rust into stable iron oxide via a rust converter/naval jelly then stops this corrosion mechanism, and serves a similar purpose to a passivated surface on a stainless steel piece or aluminum oxide barrier on an aluminum piece - both of which are very corrosion resistant in automotive usage.

This isn't an opinion - it's a metallurgical fact. Coatings on existing rust are not long term solutions due to the above corrosion mechanism.
 
I used Rustbullet on that area on mine and topcoated it with Rustoleum bedliner-in-a-can. So far so good.
 
shahsmerdis said:
Hi all,

He suggested I just go to home depot buy couple of spray cans of black paint and spray whatever I can in like 30 min.

Let me ask you guys, is there any product that I can just spray on rust to hold it for a few weeks until I find a shop to do the rust treatment, or am I just wasting my time and I should have the shop do it. I won't have time to pressure wash, or scrub the underbody. Just time to spray paint a few cans.

I was thinking a few cans of Rust-Oleum on the really bad parts.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

This is what I used. Previous owners didn't wash the under carriage, so mine was a mess similar to yours. I did take the time to remove most of the scale. I started with pressure washing and then used a needle scaler. We will see what it looks like this next Spring. As others have said, you have got to put a converter on it before you encapsulate it or you will be wasting your time.

7140921_dpl_RF129_pri_larg.jpg
 
TrdLtly said:
This is what I used. Previous owners didn't wash the under carriage, so mine was a mess similar to yours. I did take the time to remove most of the scale. I started with pressure washing and then used a needle scaler. We will see what it looks like this next Spring. As others have said, you have got to put a converter on it before you encapsulate it or you will be wasting your time.

7140921_dpl_RF129_pri_larg.jpg
Click to expand...

Okay,

I'm sorry can you guys please spell the details. It doesn't seem cost effective for a shop to do it. nor are there many that actually do it. I wonder why.

I don't have access to a lift anymore since I had to head back home. I might be going back to visit that area in a few weeks for thanksgiving so maybe I'll have another opportunity. I do have some ramps that will give me a lot of clearance though. I still hate working on my back.

please correct me, or add or subtract. still clueless.

Long way: Best way

1) pressure wash, with degreaser etc. That I can do ! Check!
2) Dry it completely check!
3) Okay no matter what approach its best to scrub and physically remove whatever I can. my arms are going to hate it. but okay Ill figure that out
4) apply rust converter, Which brand? does it come in a spray, what areas should I avoid? 2-3 coats.
5) Prime?
6) encapsulate whatever is left.

Is there a shorter way? or less steps? Or leveling, neutralizing, encapsulating only way to do it right?
 
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