Really gummed up intake, under the intake manifold. Advice?

[csp]

The OP already covered the condition under the valve covers in post #30, including pictures of what they look like.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

After a healthy cleaning you should change your PCV Valve and clean the throttle body.. If the intake has that much grime I would be concerned with the rest of the engine. Like under the valve covers...

Absolutely, that's good advice. I have the PCV grommet out and I'll be replacing it and the PCV valve. I've cleaned the throttle body some months ago but I'll do it again and clean the IAC. I really think I should get a catch can, to prevent this type of build up in the future.

 

[TheDurk]

If it were mine and I was this deep into the engine, I would pull the manifold and clean as much as I could. I'm lazy like that. I hate to do a job twice. Plus you can get a look at your intake valves and see what they look like. Just be careful. Get yourself 2" masking tape and cover all the holes. As we speak, go and cover up the holes in your manifold. The last thing you want to do is drop a non-magnetic washer in there. I've seen a thread on here about that before.

As for vacuum lines, just replace the ones that look old and dried out. Once together you can always check for leaks. Invest in a scangauge or at least an OBDII reader. I watch my A/F, trans temp and coolant temp all the time. 14.53 is what I average on A/F.

If you get a CEL and its a 0420 code (O2 sensor or "catalytic efficiency" I think is how its worded) you'll know. Your rig goes into failsafe mode and your gas gauge moves faster than your speedometer. The computer is trying to protect your engine.

Generally good advice here, but P0420 does not call a fail-safe and has zero effect on engine performance.

DTC No. Fail-Safe Operation Fail-Safe Deactivation Conditions
P0100 Ignition timing fixed at 10° BTDC Returned to normal condition
P0110 Intake air temp. is fixed at 20°C (68°F) Returned to normal condition
P0115 Engine coolant temp. is fixed at 80°C (176°F) Returned to normal condition
P0120 VTA is fixed at 0°
Following condition must be repeated at least 2 times consecutively:
(a) VTA 0.1 V and
0.95 V, Vehicle speed= 0 km/h (only
ECT)
(b) Vehicle speed: 0 km/h (0 mph) (only for A/T)
P0135
P0141
The heater circuit in witch an abnormality is detected is
turned off Ignition switch OFF
P0325
P0330 Max. timing retardation Ignition switch OFF
P1300 Fuel cut Returned to normal condition

Sorry about the format but the above is the list of codes that set fail safe from the FSM, followed by what the fail-safe setiing is )parameter and value) and then what it takes to make it go away. Earlier years have different codes for front O2 sensor fails that set a fail safe, but in no case does a p0420.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/preche.pdf
Item 4 at p. 184.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I got the intake ports cleaned up. Sorry the picture is blurry. I also installed new gaskets and reinstalled the intake manifold and fuel rails. Now, I just need to finish up the valve cover gaskets and put everything back together.

 

[Scramble]

Absolutely, that's good advice. I have the PCV grommet out and I'll be replacing it and the PCV valve. I've cleaned the throttle body some months ago but I'll do it again and clean the IAC. I really think I should get a catch can, to prevent this type of build up in the future.

The OP already covered the condition under the valve covers in post #30, including pictures of what they look like.

I replied to a bot the other day. It was my first time.:yo:

Good work Shootter, I've never dug into my engine this deep before but I'll be close when I take my intake manifold off for the SC & I need to do my valve cover gasket too. Instead of cleaning my valve cover (I have only one I'm going to buy a new one & paint it. :artist:

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I replied to a bot the other day. It was my first time.:yo:

Good work Shootter, I've never dug into my engine this deep before but I'll be close when I take my intake manifold off for the SC & I need to do my valve cover gasket too. Instead of cleaning my valve cover (I have only one I'm going to buy a new one & paint it. :artist:

Thanks Scramble. I'm not sure how much my other thread about removing the intake manifold will help you, but maybe take a look

I'm dragging my feet on putting the new valve cover gaskets in place and sealing them up. I'm just worried that, if it isn't perfect, it is going to leak again.

I'm kinda taking everything apart while I have gone into it. Took the IAC off, throttle body is coming off for cleaning, I might do some cleaning of the plenums. I'm concerned with things getting gummed up again without changing something more major. Maybe, hopefully, the new PCV valve will fix some of the mess. Would I be best off to get an oil catch can for the PCV exhaust hose?

 

[Rock_Rat]

Generally good advice here, but P0420 does not call a fail-safe and has zero effect on engine performance.

Thanks for keeping me honest and keeping the thread true. Since I was dealing with my knock sensors for so long I had mistaken the fail safe mode with my knock sensor codes!!

A failed wideband A/F (O2 sensor) will have a negative effect on fuel efficiency in that it will lose it's ability to provide the ECU with the ability to tune to exact A/F values. Like you said no decrease in engine performance.

Engine is looking clean! Nice job.

OK could not find "mud in my face" icon. Feel free....haha

 

[Scramble]

Thanks Scramble. I'm not sure how much my other thread about removing the intake manifold will help you, but maybe take a look

I'm dragging my feet on putting the new valve cover gaskets in place and sealing them up. I'm just worried that, if it isn't perfect, it is going to leak again.

I'm kinda taking everything apart while I have gone into it. Took the IAC off, throttle body is coming off for cleaning, I might do some cleaning of the plenums. I'm concerned with things getting gummed up again without changing something more major. Maybe, hopefully, the new PCV valve will fix some of the mess. Would I be best off to get an oil catch can for the PCV exhaust hose?

Yep, read that thread, it's great. thanks. There's some good videos on Youtube with the 3RZ too.

I wouldn't worry about it getting gummed up again. You're gonna keep up on the maintenance better than the previous owners. Use a good oil & filter every 3000. Use the 3M Fuel cleaner kit. I've never used a catch can but people here that I respect use & recommend them so do it. You'll be good for another 200,000 if the engine lasts that long.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks for keeping me honest and keeping the thread true. Since I was dealing with my knock sensors for so long I had mistaken the fail safe mode with my knock sensor codes!!

A failed wideband A/F (O2 sensor) will have a negative effect on fuel efficiency in that it will lose it's ability to provide the ECU with the ability to tune to exact A/F values. Like you said no decrease in engine performance.

Engine is looking clean! Nice job.

OK could not find "mud in my face" icon. Feel free....haha

You are correct about the A/F sensor, but that is a less common source of a P0420. The rear O2 is the more likely cause, but that affects neither performance nor fuel efficiency. It just measures cat performance. I really don't see how muck in the intake could lead to a P0420, at least not without other codes as well.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Nice work on getting this cleaned up.

What I would also recommend is a BG Induction service at a shop. We do them in ours just for this issue. The chemical will eat that crap up. It makes a hell of a mess in our shop but it works well. You will have a very thick cloud of white smoke rolling out your 4runner when it's done I'll bet money on it.

Blue

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Nice work on getting this cleaned up.

What I would also recommend is a BG Induction service at a shop. We do them in ours just for this issue. The chemical will eat that crap up. It makes a hell of a mess in our shop but it works well. You will have a very thick cloud of white smoke rolling out your 4runner when it's done I'll bet money on it.

Blue

Is that like Seafoam but more intense cleaning? What does that usually cost?

 

[Ol'Blue]

Is that like Seafoam but more intense cleaning? What does that usually cost?

Sort of but not really. It kinda works the same but different. You need a canister that holds the chemicals and it has a part to hook up air to it so it fogs the intake system and cleans it. Takes about an hour or so at least and runs about 155 or so with labor and parts. That's normally what we charge. It took care of my lazy fuel injector issue not to far back before I lost my engine in my 99.

Blue

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

More frustration, typical of doing car work I was getting everything put back together and taking my time to get it done the correct way. I was about to put the top plenum on and I dropped a bolt for it behind the engine. Now, I am taking parts off the engine to try to find that bolt. I have looked for it for almost an hour, early this morning, including using a magnet. I am mostly worried that I will now need to buy another plenum gasket, since I had the lower plenum installed with its new gasket on.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

All put back together. I still need to reorganize the spark plug wires but it runs again.



Next job, timing belt and water pump.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

So... in my test-starts, I'm not really satisfied. The idle is high, but I suppose I should expect it after cleaning the IAC and throttle body. I will give it time to re-adjust. The bigger issues are that it idles really roughly. I have double checked the spark plug connections but it feels like it is missing a cylinder. Also, I'm getting a strong scent of gas. I kinda don't want to tear it all apart again. I went really slowly when putting it together and made sure everything was in order.

 

[St Runner]

My guess would be you knocked one of your injectors loose when you moved them out of the way. Do a visual inspection of them while running before you tear things apart

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

My guess would be you knocked one of your injectors loose when you moved them out of the way. Do a visual inspection of them while running before you tear things apart

That's a good idea. I did remove all the injectors for thorough cleaning of the intake manifold. They were very difficult to reinstall. Maybe I didn't get one seated fully. I will check them.

Also, I think it is running pretty rough since I did scrap a lot of intake crap further into the intake. I'm sure that junk is going to take some time to burn off. I will be doing a Seafoam treatment after I get it all put back together and filled with coolant. Any other ideas?

 

[csp]

Not saying this is the case, but a high idle is indicative of the computer compensating for a vacuum leak. Given the other things you're noticing it's a real possibility.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Seating your Fuel Injectors

That's a good idea. I did remove all the injectors for thorough cleaning of the intake manifold. They were very difficult to reinstall. Maybe I didn't get one seated fully. I will check them.

They should not have been difficult to install at all. Sounds like you may have sliced an O ring. It's pretty common. Use a petroleum based lube (oil or Vaseline) on the ring before installing them. If you have a dealer close by, go pick up some OEM rings. Can't be more than a couple of bucks. If not you'll have to use NAPA or an aftermarket O ring.

Injector Installation

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

They should not have been difficult to install at all. Sounds like you may have sliced an O ring. It's pretty common. Use a petroleum based lube (oil or Vaseline) on the ring before installing them. If you have a dealer close by, go pick up some OEM rings. Can't be more than a couple of bucks. If not you'll have to use NAPA or an aftermarket O ring.

Injector Installation

I'll need to remove the plenums again to get at the injectors, won't I? Then, I will need to use new plenum gaskets to reinstall?