Rear axle seal leaking. Help

[spenedwrds]

I noticed some oil on my breaks and inner wheel when installing my lift researched it and found it was the seal. I found the write up and I plan on using it to help me out when I begin the project.

I just need some help with knowing exactly what parts I need to replace? And the best place to purchase these?

Any info would be very helpful Im still learning thanks!

 

[Mellow77]

BigFish did a pretty good write-up about it. I found it by searching "rear axle seal parts". Toyota of Dallas' prices on OEM parts are tough to beat.

LINKY

 

[spenedwrds]

yea thats the one i found too. im just not sure what parts to buy exactly guess ill just do a little more reading and searching. thanks!

 

[ifewel]

I just did this project following BigFishAllDay's writeup. These are all the parts listed there:
90301-88077, O-Ring x2
90310-50006, Seal, Type S Oil x2
90363-40020-77, Bearing x2
42423-20010, Retainers x4
43517-35010, Skid Control Rotor x2
90520-36045, Snap Ring x2
90313-48001, Outer Shaft Oil Seal x2

Those are the Toyota part numbers, so you can use them when you call the dealership.

 

[spenedwrds]

will i still need two of the parts if its only one side leaking. the passenger side was dry and the driver is where i noticed the leak and what about the x4 one?

 

[tbst]

You could just replace the seal and see if it goes away. As long as your bearings aren't acting up.

 

[spenedwrds]

thats true. but then again i might as well just replace it all while i have it apart so i dont have to go back right?

 

[tbst]

Well, I guess there are two schools of thought. The parts aren't cheap, even at shop cost you are looking at $255 or so. For just the seal you are looking at $5 or so.

It is about a 25 minute process, especially for one side. Will probably spend more time in bleeding the brakes.

I replaced both. One is leaking. I think this maybe because I set the seal too "far" back. It isn't supposed to be right against the axle housing, apparently.

So I am going to do round two on that side and THEN replace the bearings.

That's just me though.

 

[PNWRunner]

Your rear axle seals typically go for one of two reasons.

Either your diff breather is clogged and the expanding air in your diff found another way out through your axle seals
Or
Your bearings are going bad and the excess play has worn your seals and caused them to leak.

Check your diff breather and make sure the cap wiggles around, and also check to see if your bearings are throwing any grease. You may have to make the call on which route your going to take once you see the bearings.
My seal went at 200k and when I removed the shaft I could see that my bearing was puking grease. I took both shafts to a machine shop and had new bearings pressed for about $400 bucks (this covers abs retainer rings and other parts).

The seal itself is pretty easy, I just found a socket that was almost the exact OD of the bearing and gave it a couple smacks. 10k later and im good as new. Hope this help

 

[spenedwrds]

Yea I'm over the 200k mark At about 240k. And the throwing grease? There was grease all over the back side of my wheel. Would that be a result of the throwing grease?

 

[tbst]

That would be the result of your differential oil seals having gone bad and spraying oil when your tire turns. Doesn't mean your bearings aren't puking grease.

Take them out of the axle housing and see.

 

[Dewyz1100]

More than you need to know...Hopefully...

My driver's side axle seal was leaking as well - when the passenger's side was not... I also had a rusting/leaking differential "pumpkin" cover that required the entire rear axle housing to be replaced... I chose to replace EVERYTHING... Here is my repair thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/104883-rust-belt-rear-axle-housing-swap.html

Thankfully, as long as your axle housing is not rusted through like mine was, most of my thread is above and beyond anything you will have to do...

I recommend replacing the axle breather with a new one, or better yet, a new one with a relocation kit like I did. Even if the cap of your existing one wiggles, it still could be clogged in some way - it is cheap - replace it...

You know you need seals for your driver's side, and very likely at the very least, new brake pads as the gear oil has likely saturated the current ones...

If you are unable or unwilling to do both sides at once - focus on the driver's side for now and replace the seals, along will all the other parts listed in the BigFishAllDay's sticky on this repair. The QTY for each of the parts just has to be cut in half for the one side you plan on doing (both sides use the same part numbers).

Along with the pads, you may want to replace the rest of the braking components while you are in there... For my piece of mind, I replaced everything concerning the rear drum brakes just to know that everything is new, when everything was replaced, and know they should last a very long time.

My thread's 2nd page goes over this process...

Never hurts to drain out the old gear oil, clean up the drain plug's magnet, and replace with fresh gear oil while you are at it...

Later on, if/when the passenger's side starts to leak - you will have already science'd out the process on one side, and you will only have to repeat the processes for the other side... Plus this way there is no way to get the driver's side brake hardware (brackets, adjusters) confused with the passenger's side...They are different...the seals and bearings parts list is not...

Hope this helps...

 

[tbst]

Yeah, I would reccomend moving the breather as well.

Also, like Dewy said, the shoes will need replacing. I just sprayed mine with a ton of brake parts cleaner and they were ok. I wanted to see if it was going to leak again.

I would also reccomend getting a new drain plug if there is ANY rust on yours, along with a new filler plug. The last thing you want to do is have the drain plug strip off, or the filler for that matter.

 

[tbst]

Toyota Part # 90404-51319 - Union Fitting
Toyota Part # 90930-03136 - Breather Plug

Part numbers for the breather extension.

 

[Kurtis]

Don't skip the bearings when you do this. It is likely that the diff fluid has washed the grease out of the wheel bearing. And then you will be doing this all over again in a couple months.

 

[spenedwrds]

thanks guys for all the replays and help! So should I just order everything else besides the bearing and wait until ll I can actually look at it and see if it's alright? And just replace everything else, then if it needs a new bearing order that and replace it?

 

[tbst]

You can take the axle off now and see if it is the bearing. You should note that there is some play in all bearings, new and old. Excessive play is what you should be worried about. Identifying what is excessive play is hard to identify.

If you only have one vehicle, I'd take them off now and see, and then order all the parts and have the new bearings pressed on. You can't do this, unless you have a press. Here in WV they want $40 per side to have them pressed, FYI.

 

[PNWRunner]

I would get a good gear or machine shop lined up before you pull it. Your not going to want to tackle the bearings by yourself if they go bad, theres a couple retainer rings that need to be cold chisled off and its a PITA without the right setup.

A good shop will have it back to you ready to install in a day or two

 

[Dewyz1100]

Bearings...

Again, for peace of mind alone, it is not that expensive to replace everything concerning bearings, seals, and brakes on just one side of the truck... Do it and be done with it... Big Fish did a great job at showing how easy the seal is to take out and put back in - even if you don't buy the tools he used...

Just keep an eye on the passenger's side in the future to ensure that seal is not on its way out as well...

I did both sides at once, pulling the shafts at night after work (easy to take apart) then dropped them off at a shop first thing in the morning when they opened.

They had all the new parts on the axles by the end of the business day...even without an appointment...

You would just bolt it back in (4 nuts), connect the E-Brake (1 pin), connect the brake line (10mm open ended wrench), put new brake shoes on, (as well as any other brake hardware if you so choose - it is good to use a brake tool for the springs) spin the adjusters (flat blade screwdriver), bleed the brake lines (that same 10mm wrench and a helper to pump the pedal) and be back on the road in under 24 hours... Piece of cake...

Don't look too deep into this shallow puddle...

 

[jreask]

I just bought a 99 5Speed with 140K.. The dealer replaced both rear wheel bearings about two years ago. I noticed that the E brake was really tight and when I removed the drum I could see a small amount of gear oil at the bottom of the shoes and they were stuck to the drum.. It is a very small leak. I am assuming that when the dealer replaced the bearings they failed to repair the seal and the bearing had wallowed out the seal previously. I guess they just missed it. The bearings look fine. Do you guys think I could get away with just replacing the inner seal on that side?