Rear axle seal leaking. Help

I just bought a 99 5Speed with 140K.. The dealer replaced both rear wheel bearings about two years ago. I noticed that the E brake was really tight and when I removed the drum I could see a small amount of gear oil at the bottom of the shoes and they were stuck to the drum.. It is a very small leak. I am assuming that when the dealer replaced the bearings they failed to repair the seal and the bearing had wallowed out the seal previously. I guess they just missed it. The bearings look fine. Do you guys think I could get away with just replacing the inner seal on that side?



Can ANYONE give me an opinion on this one?

THANKS !!!!
 
I know you are looking for a quick yes no answer but its not that simple. Start by making sure the vent isn't blocked. That will allow the build up of pressure in the housing and push the lube out thru the seals. I can't imagine the dealer didn't install a new seal. They probably didn't position the inner retainer correctly. If they missed it, the oil will simply leak past the seal.

You need to start by pulling the axle out. Smear some bearing grease on the retainer, re-insert the axle, spin it, pull it and see where the seal is making contact. The typical mistake is pressing the retainer on too far.

It's a messy job and doing both sides only adds 45 minutes to the job. Do both at the same time.
 
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I know you are looking for a quick yes no answer but its not that simple. Start by making sure the vent isn't blocked. That will allow the build up of pressure in the housing and push the lube out thru the seals. I can't imagine the dealer didn't install a new seal. They probably didn't position the inner retainer correctly. If they missed it, the oil will simply leak past the seal.

You need to start by pulling the axle out. Smear some bearing grease on the retainer, re-insert the axle, spin it, pull it and see where the seal is making contact. The typical mistake is pressing the retainer on too far.

It's a messy job and doing both sides only adds 45 minutes to the job. Do both at the same time.

:iagree:
I agree with this assessment...

The axle breather is usually the culprit when premature axle seal failure is evident, so definitely plan to replace that first thing... You can see how nasty my breather was in my pictures... I opted for the reloaction kit so the breather is now protected from road grime and rust behind the gas fill door...however, if that seems like too much work, I have seen others that run with something like this:

Creeper Breather - Differential Breather Kit | Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts

The axle seals are cheap to replace, just like the breather, but everything in the above quote will need to be taken into account as well...

Each axle shaft comes out with just four nuts being removed...the biggest pain is any other rusted components like brake lines or your e-brake hardware...

If the bearings are already done, cool, but those are part of the hub assembly, not the axle tube like the seals and breather are...

Hope this helps...
 
I have taken the time to check the breather. It was not blocked or clogged in any way. The invoice from the dealer (from the previous owner) stated that left and right wheel bearings were replaced. In the parts section, there was no mention of the inner seals being replaced. I will remove the axle and check the contact on the seal like you recommend. My question is if the dealer did not replace the seals, it is very possible that the dealer either damaged the seal when reinserting the axle or they pushed the seal in too far? With such a small leak, I doubt the fluid washed the grease out of the bearing so the bearing should still be fine. IF so, this becomes a very inexpensive and relatively quick job.
 
The seals do not have to come out for the axles to be removed... They are so cheap and easy to do, I am floored that they were not replaced...

It is possible that the action of removing and replacing the axle caused them to no longer seal properly - especially if they are old...

I say have them replaced... It will cost more in labor than parts, but everything should come apart easy if you just had the bearing work done...

Remember to replace brake shoes that got diff fluid on them, and hose down the drums with lots of brake clean before buttoning it back up...
 

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