Rear Defroster/rear wiper not working
- Thread starter Boaz
- Start date
4x4Homer
New member
I thought my defrost was blown until I ran across this thread. I couldn't go to sleep without trying this. Sure enough, I got dressed, hoped in my truck, pushed the rear window up buttton, held it for a few seconds, and bingo the rear defrost started working again. In my case, I had just previously disconnected my battery, so the window must have moved ever so slightly.
2blu4u
New member
I had to switch out my dead battery for a fresh one. This exact thing happened, figured it was a fuse. Did a search and this thread popped up. Rolled my back window completely down and up, everything works again. Thank you everyone, in this thread.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Many Thanks sharp4runr for your post in 2005. I had a problem with the rear window wiper on my 2007 4Runner and your suggestion to run the window all the way up solved the problem.
Dave C
4genrunner
Member
Due to me being a new member I can't start a thread yet as I apparently don't have enough posts so I'm asking you guys for help here. I just bought an 03 4runner sport. The rear defrost aND wiper work fine but the rear window doesn't go up or down. Put key in the door and it doesn't work either. Tried the button on the key fob and the car just has a beep after I hold the button for about 5 seconds. Window won't do anything though. Any thoughts
4genrunner
Member
Anyone?
Angry_shoe
New member
I'm in a similar boat. My defroster doesn't work but the wipers and windows work fine.
VA4Runner09
New member
I know this sounds stupid but make sure you don't have the window lock on. Definitely has gotten me a few times.
4genrunner
Member
Definitely not on. Thank you though!
98 runner rear windo issue
Good day , I'm new to the forum.
I have 1998 4runner, I have been reading about the rear window issues on here, so here is mine any help would be great.
I came out and the rear window had rolled it self down , Tried the key and the switch to roll it back up , I checked to make sure the window lock was not locked,checked the fuses in the cab and under the hood, All fine, I disconnected the battery to try to reset the computer and messed with the rear wiper.
I am at a loss as what to look at other than the relay's.
Thanks.
Wingnut
Good day , I'm new to the forum.
I have 1998 4runner, I have been reading about the rear window issues on here, so here is mine any help would be great.
I came out and the rear window had rolled it self down , Tried the key and the switch to roll it back up , I checked to make sure the window lock was not locked,checked the fuses in the cab and under the hood, All fine, I disconnected the battery to try to reset the computer and messed with the rear wiper.
I am at a loss as what to look at other than the relay's.
Thanks.
Wingnut
Redstar2112
New member
Having a similar issue here. Today was the first morning cold enough to try the rear defroster on my '04 Sport, but I don't think it was working at all.
The window rolls down & up fine, wiper works, but I could not see that it was defrosting at all where the wires were. The mirrors defrosted just fine. Where should I begin to look for a problem?
The window rolls down & up fine, wiper works, but I could not see that it was defrosting at all where the wires were. The mirrors defrosted just fine. Where should I begin to look for a problem?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You can test the "wires"/grid with a volt/multi-meter, use the ohms setting and test with the probes(be careful not to scratch the grid with the metal probes which will create a break in the grid)until you see no reading showing there's a break in the grid, visually look for a break in the grid where the grid has been scratched or burnt creating a gap in the grid, it doesn't take much just a tiny scratch completely across the "wires" will be all it will take to have an issue in the curcuit, once you find the break/s, go to your locale auto parts store and you can buy a repair kit, the kit will allow you to repair the break/s by simply applying the repair solution over the span of the break/s, sorta like nail polish, let it dry and the defroster should work again, if it doesn't work or you don't find any breaks in the grid you may have a bad connector where the wires connect to the window inside the rear hatch or the "tab" where the connector connects could be not making a connection to the grid, you can use the same repair kit for this as well.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ar-window-defogger-repair-kit-09117/7160063-P
https://www.powersportsid.com/perma...MIy7yOq-Ks3gIVTIGzCh3Zbw59EAQYBCABEgJR-_D_BwE
https://www.jbtoolsales.com/loctite...MIy7yOq-Ks3gIVTIGzCh3Zbw59EAQYAiABEgIQY_D_BwE
Redstar2112
New member
Well, I inspected it as well as I can and I don't see any breaks in the lines. I tried the multimeter, but I couldn't get it to read any current anywhere on the lines. (Not sure if I'm using it correctly, I set it on DC and touched the black to the big strip on the side & touched various points with the red...nothing at all).
I tried rolling the window up & down many times, holding the switch down a few extra seconds every time...still nothing. There must be power going back there, as my rear wiper/fluids work fine and the mirror defrosters get nice & hot. I don't see a blown fuse anywhere, but I don't know where the specific fuse that controls the rear defrost is.
Sort of at a loss now...any other suggestions? I really appreciate the help.
I tried rolling the window up & down many times, holding the switch down a few extra seconds every time...still nothing. There must be power going back there, as my rear wiper/fluids work fine and the mirror defrosters get nice & hot. I don't see a blown fuse anywhere, but I don't know where the specific fuse that controls the rear defrost is.
Sort of at a loss now...any other suggestions? I really appreciate the help.
Redstar2112
New member
Update: I pulled the panel off the back gate and tried to find the connection for the defrost. I assume it's these 2 connectors on the bottom right of the window (these pics are seen from inside the panel). They look kind of burned out on the top. Could this be the issue? If so, how can I fix it?
Attachments
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You need to check continuity, not voltage, if you don't know how to use the ohms option on your multi-meter here's link to a YouTube video that explains it.
https://youtu.be/OOK8np4t40c
But before checking the continuity use your meter on the connector to check for voltage, in the DC setting with the defroster switch turn to on, if you get no voltage then you need to check for any blown fuses, if you don't find any blown fuses the switch could be bad, if you are getting voltage then proceed to check the window curcuit for continuity.
You can start checking the continuity on the tab terminals on the bottom of the window, do this with the connector disconnected, if you get a reading, e.g. the meter goes close to zero or really any change in the readout show there's continuity then everything on the window portion of the defroster is fine and you're not getting voltage to the terminals. if there no change in the readout you have a break somewhere in the window curcuit, at this point keep one of the probe on one of the tabs and then touch the other probe to the grid starting close to the tab the other probe is on, then work your way around the grid only moving a inch or two at a time until you get no change in the readout then you will know you just passed the break in the grid, if you get no change in the readout very close to the tab then the tab has lost connection with the grid and you should be able to repair the connection with one of the repair kits I posted above, be sure to check both tabs for a connection to the grid.
Last edited:
Redstar2112
New member
Well...this escalated quickly.
Before I had a chance to do any of what you suggested, the back window spontaneously exploded on me while driving to work this morning. I didn't even have the defrost on at the time (I had turned it on for maybe 5 minutes at the start of my drive to clear the side mirrors).
Took it to my glass guy who happened to be nearby & he replaced it for $180. Up/down & wipers work fine, but haven't tried the defrost yet because I'm frankly scared to now. Found the Toyota service bulletin that stated that they were aware of this problem and were extending the warranty - until April 30th of this past year. I might still call and see if they will reimburse me anyway.
And so life goes on...
Before I had a chance to do any of what you suggested, the back window spontaneously exploded on me while driving to work this morning. I didn't even have the defrost on at the time (I had turned it on for maybe 5 minutes at the start of my drive to clear the side mirrors).
Took it to my glass guy who happened to be nearby & he replaced it for $180. Up/down & wipers work fine, but haven't tried the defrost yet because I'm frankly scared to now. Found the Toyota service bulletin that stated that they were aware of this problem and were extending the warranty - until April 30th of this past year. I might still call and see if they will reimburse me anyway.
And so life goes on...
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Sorry to hear this, I wouldn't worry about using the defroster it should be fine now, the reason the old glass shatter and why Toyota was replacing them was the connector tabs getting hot and unevenly heating the glass, this it seems was caused by a poor design of the tabs.
