rear differential housing stud part #

[Herculean T4R]

Does anyone know the toyota part # for rear differential housing studs? I am installing ARB locker next weekend and want to buy a few studs as a backup incase I break/strip one or more studs. I wasn't able to find the part # on Camelback Toyota website.

Also, what's the recommended torque spec. I researched and found 18 ft lbs for diff w/ elocker and 54 ft lbs for diff w/o elocker. Not sure why the spec for diff w/o elocker is so high. Can someone confirm the corret spec.

thanks!

1999 4runner SR5 w/o elocker.

 

[nely]

Front range Offroad sells a kit for the elocker.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...-electric-e-locker-gasket-studs-hardware.html

If you order just the small studs that should be what you need for extra non elocker studs


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[Buckaroo]

I researched and found 18 ft lbs for diff w/ elocker and 54 ft lbs for diff w/o elocker. Not sure why the spec for diff w/o elocker is so high. Can someone confirm the corret spec.

I came to the conclusion that the 54 ft lb in the FSM for the open diff is an error - I believe I used the 19 ft lb number...unfortunately it was after I over torqued the nuts and then had to replace the studs. Sounds like you found the error before you made my mistake - good catch.

Regarding stud part number - this is what I have at the moment but don't have time to confirm the part number I purchased from the dealership - will do so later & post.

41110A BOLT, NO.1 (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SET)
90116-08233 S=14 & 14, L=42 2
90116-08329 S=17 & 12, L=37, W(265/70R16 TIRE)
90116-08330 S=17 & 12, L=111, W(265/70R16 TIRE)

Buckaroo

 

[Mauzer]

If you're going to replace one might as well replace them all and get rid of the annoying inside nut: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-toyota-differential-stud-eliminator-kit-140056-1-kit.html

 

[kolelt]

I just went to the dealer and got the studs, lock washer and nuts. Was about $60 ish.

I recommend installing with a stud installer. I borrowed it from a mechanic friend. Which can also remove the studs. I just tightened them down till I couldn't anymore and have it little extra. They are design to only go in so deep.

 

[krenaud33]

I just went down to the local hardware store and bought the bolts, washers, and nuts for fraction of the price of the trail gear kit.

 

[mtbtim]

Does anyone know the toyota part # for rear differential housing studs? I am installing ARB locker next weekend and want to buy a few studs as a backup incase I break/strip one or more studs. I wasn't able to find the part # on Camelback Toyota website.

Also, what's the recommended torque spec. I researched and found 18 ft lbs for diff w/ elocker and 54 ft lbs for diff w/o elocker. Not sure why the spec for diff w/o elocker is so high. Can someone confirm the corret spec.

thanks!

1999 4runner SR5 w/o elocker.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I just helped install ARB lockers from East Coast Gear Supply front and rear on [MENTION=142071]sunsetrunner[/MENTION] rig. When we pulled the 3rd member, 3 of the studs came out with the nut. We had to clamp the nut in a vice and use the double nut method on the other side of the stud to break the nut free. On the studs that came out, I just ran a thread cleaner on the female threads on the axle housing and cleaned up the male threads on the studs. When I reinstalled them, I put blue 242 loctite on the threads and installed it by grabbing the stud on the non-threaded center of the stud with a channel locks and ran it in until the thread bottomed out. Once you install the 3rd member and tighten the nuts to spec, which by the way is 18 ft-lbf, I doubt the stud could back out because the nut is holding tension on the stud keeping it from loosening up. At least I don't think it will loosen up once the nut is tightened down to spec. Does anyone else have an understanding with stud applications and how tight they need to be?

 

[Buckaroo]

Does anyone know the toyota part # for rear differential housing studs?

My stock, non-locking diff took 10 studs - two different part numbers. As I recall, two of them were longer....

8 - Toyota Part # 90116-A0118
2- Toyota Part # 90116-A0115

The nut part number is 90170-08204 - 10 req'd.

List price from dealership was $24.46 total for the studs and the nuts. I installed the studs using blue threadlocker.

Buckaroo

 

[octanejunkie]

Does anyone else have an understanding with stud applications and how tight they need to be?

From an engine builders guide book I have, in relation to general, non-specific studs

Install the studs into the block finger-tight only (or with a light preload if recommended). DO NOT double-nut the studs and tighten severely. As long as full thread engagement occurs (the “course” end of the stud is screwed into the hole fully), clamping load will be achieved by tightening the nut.​

Some studs require staking, some are knurled and some have specific torque recommendations, some require sealing compounds if the stud seals a water jacket. I have never done more than the above, with the addition of some blue loctite as per [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], on differential housing/cover studs, oil pan studs, etc.

Make sure the stud and threaded hole are clean and dry and install them with wet loctite. Allow them to "cure" overnight or longer for best results.

Hope that helps

 

[mendozer]

Front range Offroad sells a kit for the elocker.

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If you order just the small studs that should be what you need for extra non elocker studs


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Inside nuts? When I removed mine all the studs with exception of one came out. Bottom one stayed in. So I assume the nuts were rusted solid into the studs. Any issues with the flat headed bolts?

 

[Doc2012]

Could always just get M8x1.25 Allen head bolts and eliminate the studs all together.

What I did on mine 10 years ago.


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