Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit
- Thread starter midcoma
- Start date
G’s_4runnah
New member
I cut above it. Ultimately you are cutting all but about 16 inches of the outer cable cover off by the end of the install.
halfway (?) through the install now. I offer this bit of advice, it was very difficult for me to drill the front two holes needed to mount the bracket, all of my drill bits wanted to walk on me due to the ridge in the body material. In the end, I had to drill the holes larger to position the screws to fit into the bracket. I would think it would be possible to move the two front mounting holes to a different spot, there's plenty of room on the bracket. Maybe longer screws to help with thread engagement while positioning the bracket? I'm not exactly sure but that spot is just not great for drilling.
to help get everything aligned, I loosened the couplers on the front screws and just barely put them through the bracket, no nuts yet. I think put the rear screws in about one or two threads at most. Once everything was aligned and where it needed to be, only then could I start to tighten the couplers, but still only just enough to get the nuts started, maybe 1 thread max, then go back and tighten the rear screws, but still not all the way, maybe 2/3s screwed in. Then go back and tighten the front couplers all the way, tightening the nuts until the nyloc touches the threads, that way you know those screws won't slip out of the bracket holes. Once you finish tightening the couplers, then unthread the nyloc nuts and add a washer, one at a time, and go ahead and torque them down snug. Then be sure to finish the rear screws and don't forget the washers back there too.
Probably every runner will be slightly different so this is not an easy problem to solve. [MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION] put together a fantastic kit at a great price so let's not loose sight of that.
Finally, if you have a body lift, you do no need to remove the driveshaft completely. I have a 1.5" body lift and was able to only disconnect from the axle, leaving the transfer case nuts attached, and just moved the driveshaft off to the side.
Good luck, I'm excited to be done this week and go wheeling again.
to help get everything aligned, I loosened the couplers on the front screws and just barely put them through the bracket, no nuts yet. I think put the rear screws in about one or two threads at most. Once everything was aligned and where it needed to be, only then could I start to tighten the couplers, but still only just enough to get the nuts started, maybe 1 thread max, then go back and tighten the rear screws, but still not all the way, maybe 2/3s screwed in. Then go back and tighten the front couplers all the way, tightening the nuts until the nyloc touches the threads, that way you know those screws won't slip out of the bracket holes. Once you finish tightening the couplers, then unthread the nyloc nuts and add a washer, one at a time, and go ahead and torque them down snug. Then be sure to finish the rear screws and don't forget the washers back there too.
Probably every runner will be slightly different so this is not an easy problem to solve. [MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION] put together a fantastic kit at a great price so let's not loose sight of that.
Finally, if you have a body lift, you do no need to remove the driveshaft completely. I have a 1.5" body lift and was able to only disconnect from the axle, leaving the transfer case nuts attached, and just moved the driveshaft off to the side.
Good luck, I'm excited to be done this week and go wheeling again.
Grgg1978
Member
Well. Just finished with the disc brake install. I had a friend of mine that’s a mechanic do most of the work. Besides a possible leak from one of the new brake lines that came in the kit, everything installed as expected. There is a slight squishy feel to the pedal but that could be from the TBU or maybe when I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder a couple of years ago I didn’t do the install and gapping of the brake booster right. I will need to recheck all my old work to be sure.
Even though I might need more adjustments the brakes are better than what the drums provided in my opinion. Might need to adjust the handbrake a bit more otherwise I’m pretty satisfied as is.
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Even though I might need more adjustments the brakes are better than what the drums provided in my opinion. Might need to adjust the handbrake a bit more otherwise I’m pretty satisfied as is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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RandyBobandy
New member
atcpup
New member
I delayed my post for almost 3 weeks because I wanted to see how the brakes were holding up after a little time. This was the second install for me (helped G's_4Runna on his 2001)and the second time around was definitely easier. Not to mention we weren't dealing with the 2001's Evap cannister and associated hoses that occupy the tunnel.
I thought the kit was well thought out and had great instructions. Just getting the vehicle to the point of starting to install took awhile (removing drum brakes and cutting the drum backing plates off) We also had the benefit of a lift. Even with the lift it's a 7-9 hour job. I'm sure professionals wouldn't take that long but professionals we are not :nono:
After three weeks of driving (almost 700 miles) the brakes feel great! Slightly better feel than the drums but this is only seat of the pants testing, no before and after to compare.
Would I do this over again? Hell Yes!
I thought the kit was well thought out and had great instructions. Just getting the vehicle to the point of starting to install took awhile (removing drum brakes and cutting the drum backing plates off) We also had the benefit of a lift. Even with the lift it's a 7-9 hour job. I'm sure professionals wouldn't take that long but professionals we are not :nono:
After three weeks of driving (almost 700 miles) the brakes feel great! Slightly better feel than the drums but this is only seat of the pants testing, no before and after to compare.
Would I do this over again? Hell Yes!
Grgg1978
Member
This was one hell of a planned out kit. Will definitely be doing this to all my 3rd gens I’ll ever own. Very well planned out and semi easy to install. 2 things. 1. Make sure your calipers have banjo bolts or order a set, glad the auto part store had them. 2. Make sure that the valve you buy, if you need it, for the brakes has a male end and female, hardware store for the save for me. Had another issue that was resolved pretty quickly. Would totally recommend for anyone that hates drum brakes or wants a legit kit to upgrade your brakes.
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AntonioCm1983
New member
I have a question I have finally sorted the 2004 svt cobra rear calipers... I noticed it states any rotors from 2003 4runner or newer now my questions is .. do I need the 319mm 12.56 inch rotors or the 338mm 13.31 inch rotors what will work best with the svt cobra calipers and brackets?
You need 4th gen rear rotors. Says so in the 1st post here. The rears only came in one size as far as I know. 312 mm if I remember correctly.
AntonioCm1983
New member
They actually come in 2 sizes the post says any rotors 2003 or newer and the 2 sizes I provide are the 2 sizes you can get that is why I asked wasn't sure what would fit better
AntonioCm1983
New member
First post actually says 2003 to present right now that would be 2003 to 2021 4runners and I wanted to make it simple since I got the 2004 cobra calipers to use 2004 4runner rear rotors and there is 2 size options for the rotors which is what I provided in the first message I asked... and I originally thought there was only 1 size also but there is actually a 338mm size just thought asking on here would also help people if they wanted to know which one to get I do appreciate your response
AntonioCm1983
New member
Here is a photo of some info on the 2 sizes I talked about as well as the post on here about it info below
I believe that only the Sport models had the 338mm rotors. The 319mm rotors should have a 13WG or 13WL marking on the calipers while the 338mm rotors have a 13WH marking on the calipers. Here's the rotor diameter as indicated by the markings on the calipers:
13WH- 13.3"/338mm rotor diameter
13WL- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter
13WG- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter
This thread may also help:
How To: Upgrading to Sport Brakes (319 to 338mm)
I believe that only the Sport models had the 338mm rotors. The 319mm rotors should have a 13WG or 13WL marking on the calipers while the 338mm rotors have a 13WH marking on the calipers. Here's the rotor diameter as indicated by the markings on the calipers:
13WH- 13.3"/338mm rotor diameter
13WL- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter
13WG- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter
This thread may also help:
How To: Upgrading to Sport Brakes (319 to 338mm)
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Doc2012
Senior Member
rear rotors
All the options you listed are front rotors and calipers. You need rear rotors to go on the rear axle for this rear disk brake conversion
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weekendclimber
New member
Doc2012
Senior Member
Are these kits still for sale or was it a one time group buy?
Kits are still available; however, I'm waiting for more parking brake cables to come in.
Sorry that I've been a little absent lately. My real job picked back up and I haven't had much free time to be on the forums. I'm glad to see some of these kits getting installed though! Thanks for sharing all the pictures and lessons learned.
