Rear Driveshaft Rebuild/Replace?

Have you tried changing the flange to drive shaft by rotating shaft 180 degrees then rebolting to see if any difference in vibration. Then try 90 degree and rebolt?
It's a bad U joint on the slip yoke, I jacked up the back and the joint is very sloppy.

I'm looking into installing a new u joint in the original slip yoke or just getting a whole new driveshaft via Tom Woods. But I need a temp fix.
 
It's a bad U joint on the slip yoke, I jacked up the back and the joint is very sloppy.

I'm looking into installing a new u joint in the original slip yoke or just getting a whole new driveshaft via Tom Woods. But I need a temp fix.

[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] and I have a video that will help you out.

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If you have some skills it can be done in a garage , but a shop with a press and experienced technician is faster.
Getting the correct new U-joint that fits is your challenge now. Do you have a caliper? Measure existing and new replacement carefully before trying to replace.
 
I have enough experience to feel like I could probably get the job done but also enough to know I might get stuck. The garage (and half of my tools) are at my parents' house about an hour away. That's why I'm looking for a temp fix - if I attempt the u-joint repair and something goes wrong, I can slap the other slip yoke in there and at least drive home.

It's Tim's video that got me a little bit wary of attempting the fix without a fallback. As is typical, most of the videos out there (Chris Fix, for one) talk about how easy this job is. Tim doesn't sugar coat it.

I guess I'll just have to see if junk yard slip yoke fits before I do anything else. I got the tools for that at my place.
 
I have enough experience to feel like I could probably get the job done but also enough to know I might get stuck. The garage (and half of my tools) are at my parents' house about an hour away. That's why I'm looking for a temp fix - if I attempt the u-joint repair and something goes wrong, I can slap the other slip yoke in there and at least drive home.

It's Tim's video that got me a little bit wary of attempting the fix without a fallback. As is typical, most of the videos out there (Chris Fix, for one) talk about how easy this job is. Tim doesn't sugar coat it.

I guess I'll just have to see if junk yard slip yoke fits before I do anything else. I got the tools for that at my place.

I'm a decent mechanic, and I was unable do this job. I ended up messing up the yoke, and had to buy a new one. It was only like 275 dollars for a new rear yoke with Neapco U-joint, a new U-joint put in the spare used yoke I had, and a balance of the shaft.


I found a local driveshaft shop. Worth every penny. I would not mess with a U-joint again unless I REAAALLY had to.
 
Unless Im missing something, why dont u remove the driveshaft and put it in 4WD and drive it around like that while ur working in rear driveshaft? Or, have that as backup plan if things go south when trying to replace rear u-joint?

Thanks

MikeM
 
I have enough experience to feel like I could probably get the job done but also enough to know I might get stuck. The garage (and half of my tools) are at my parents' house about an hour away. That's why I'm looking for a temp fix - if I attempt the u-joint repair and something goes wrong, I can slap the other slip yoke in there and at least drive home.

It's Tim's video that got me a little bit wary of attempting the fix without a fallback. As is typical, most of the videos out there (Chris Fix, for one) talk about how easy this job is. Tim doesn't sugar coat it.

I guess I'll just have to see if junk yard slip yoke fits before I do anything else. I got the tools for that at my place.

Yep, for Chris Fix, everything is EASY, which it is, until it's not. I like being honest with our audience on what the job is really like. I especially like how Chris Fix gives people the illusion that showing a repair on one make/model vehicle means you could do it on any vehicle with the information he provides. Like, "Hey Guys, I'm going to show you how to pull a transmission on a Ford Mustang, and now you can do it for any other make & model vehicle." But, a lot of people love that guy's content, so he clearly doing something right.

I think you're smart having a back-up plan with the spare slip yoke in case something doesn't go right with the u-joint replacement.
 
Unless Im missing something, why dont u remove the driveshaft and put it in 4WD and drive it around like that while ur working in rear driveshaft? Or, have that as backup plan if things go south when trying to replace rear u-joint?

Thanks

MikeM

What you're missing is it's not advisable to drive on pavement in 4wheel drive. The wheels in a turn can bind because there's no slippage of the tires on the pavement. The tires grab. The end result is a broken CV axle, or worse yet, a broken front differential.
 
I didnt think the cv joints binding was an Issue when the rear drive shaft is off. Understand that being a problem with both driveshafts on and being in 4wd

Thanks

MikeM
 
I didnt think the cv joints binding was an Issue when the rear drive shaft is off. Understand that being a problem with both driveshafts on and being in 4wd

Thanks

MikeM
It would be fine - I think Tim misunderstood what you were saying.

It is a bit sketchy since you can always guarantee the front diff will be engaged (it *should* stay engaged, but...) so you can't guarantee the "Park" function in the transmission will keep the truck from rolling when parked. There is no limit to driving speed or anything once everything is locked in place (ADD, transfer case, etc.). I wouldn't put high loads on it or long drives - the front diff and transfer case aren't meant for being loaded that way for long periods of time (overheating gears/bearings).

-Charlie
 
It would be fine - I think Tim misunderstood what you were saying.

It is a bit sketchy since you can always guarantee the front diff will be engaged (it *should* stay engaged, but...) so you can't guarantee the "Park" function in the transmission will keep the truck from rolling when parked. There is no limit to driving speed or anything once everything is locked in place (ADD, transfer case, etc.). I wouldn't put high loads on it or long drives - the front diff and transfer case aren't meant for being loaded that way for long periods of time (overheating gears/bearings).

-Charlie

I didn't misunderstand what he was saying. Even with the rear driveshaft disconnected, I thought you could get binding on a tight turn while in 4wd. I don't see how not having the rear driveshaft connected stops the binding of the axles during a tight turn.
 
I didn't misunderstand what he was saying. Even with the rear driveshaft disconnected, I thought you could get binding on a tight turn while in 4wd. I don't see how not having the rear driveshaft connected stops the binding of the axles during a tight turn.
The binding comes from the locked center, but as soon as you remove either the front or rear driveshaft, there is nothing left to lock them together. You are then just driving a FWD 4Runner.

-Charlie
 
Well, I got the u joint installed. Took about 7 hours, partly due to stupid mistakes. The '96 slip yoke was a functional match (though not exactly identical - there are a few minor differences in the casting) but I didn't end up needing it.

I had to use some heat and hammering in addition to the two jaw puller to get the first bearing cap to cooperate, but eventually it came out far enough to use the grinder and vice method from Tim and Jordan's video, which worked perfectly. The second cap was easy. The third also required a bit of heat to get started. The last one was not budging, I had pushed the cap out too far when removing the opposite side and it was going back in askew. Eventually I gave up trying to get it out and pushed it all the way in then took an angle grinder to it in order to remove enough from the cap to get the spider out. I had marred up the bearing seat pretty bad with all the hammering and pressing so I had to get the smoothed out with a file. The reinstall was perfectly easy.

Having watched Tim's video probably 3 times at this point, I realized part of the reason his vids are so helpful. It's not just the attention to detail and thorough explanation. It's that Tim, like most of the rest of us, is an amature. He approaches the job with a lot of care, caution, and thoughtfulness because he (like us) is kinda figuring it out as he goes. He shows the problems he runs into and explains the difficulties. Contrast this with some expert mechanic who's done dozens of U-joint jobs in his life and explains it as if it's as easy for you as it is for him. That expert mechanic might be objectively more knowledgeable but is ultimately way less helpful. Especially when the "help" consists of snarky comments left on other people's content....

So anyway, thanks Tim. I doubt I would have finished the job in one day (or maybe at all) without your video.
 

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