Rear drums leaking or just dirty?

[96RedRunner]

The Drcoffee method does work, have not had the need to use on 4Runner yet.
The trick is removing the seal without bending distorting it. be gentle, dental picks or something as small and stiff gets removal started use a second pick with the first.

 

[BoomerBob]

The red side plate can be carefully removed, clean out the gear oil and repack with Lithium grease. The bearing isnt very thick. Use a pick and pry off the inner plastic cover. Spray with non chlorinated brake cleaner until the grease is removed and blow out the cleaner with compressed air. Then work in the new grease.

Just to clarify; you're saying the bearing should be removed from the axle to clean and repack the bearing?

Also; why does it need to be non chlorinated brake cleaner?

 

[mtbtim]

Just to clarify; you're saying the bearing should be removed from the axle to clean and repack the bearing?

Also; why does it need to be non chlorinated brake cleaner?

No, I don't think that's what Dr Coffee meant. When you remove a bearing from the axle, you can't protect it from the huge side load you're applying to it to drive the axle shaft out so the bearing shouldn't be reused. When putting a new bearing onto the axle, the bearing can be protected because as the axle is being driven in on one side, the outer retainer is supporting the inner race on the opposing side so the bearing isn't incurring any load.

All you have to do is what people have suggested. Get yourself a little pick tool or small screwdriver and lift up the bearing cover. From there, use a rag and wipe up grease and gear oil out of the bearing. Next, do several rounds of spraying brake cleaner in the bearing to clean it out further. I would rest the axle end that goes into the 3rd member onto a block of wood on the ground and spray up into the bearing letting gravity help me get the old grease and gear oil out. Once you're satisfied the bearing is pretty clean, repack it with a good high temp wheel bearing grease. Push grease into the bearing, turn the the axle shaft back in forth to work the grease into bearing and repeat until the bearing looks to be full of grease. Push the bearing cover back on and you'll be golden Pony Boy.

But, like I suggested above, you're rolling the dice by not replacing the bearings and might find you're going back in to do this job all over again sooner than you would have hoped.

 

[BoomerBob]

Thanks Tim. I was trying to understand if doing this was possible with the bearing still on the axle. I guess I didn't need to buy the bearing removal tool after all. It will probably come in handy at some point I guess.

After giving it more thought I think I'll replace the bearing since I'll have the tools. What's another $60 at this point.... The rig only has 148k miles so I think I'll be good if I only change the seals on the other side.

By the way; I see the original tool maker added a plate to make it easier to remove the ABS gear and bearing but also bumped the price up to $269.

 

[Riceye]

And, all of you axle seal leak sufferers - Check your differential breather! Fix (clean), replace or modify with a breather extension hose. This is a major cause of initial axle seal leakage.

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks Tim. I was trying to understand if doing this was possible with the bearing still on the axle. I guess I didn't need to buy the bearing removal tool after all. It will probably come in handy at some point I guess.

After giving it more thought I think I'll replace the bearing since I'll have the tools. What's another $60 at this point.... The rig only has 148k miles so I think I'll be good if I only change the seals on the other side.

By the way; I see the original tool maker added a plate to make it easier to remove the ABS gear and bearing but also bumped the price up to $269.

The company I bought my original tool from was Durasolid. This looks to be another manufacturer with the same design. Maybe these companies are getting the tool from the same supplier and just putting their name on it. But, $260 is a huge ripoff compared to Duane's tool (Donald-the-bonald) that sells for only $170 and is much better built and is more functional. With Duane's tool, you don't need a bearing splitter and you don't need a press sleeve either. We actually suggested Duane make the driver tool with the built in sleeve because the tool originally was only meant to pull the parts off. He listened to our suggestion and made the driver tool because I told him I was reluctant to back a tool that doesn't also help you drive the parts back onto the axle. He was smart to work with us on the design because he's making lots more sales now that we have that video showcasing his tool. On top of it, Duane is a really cool guy so I'm glad we're helping him out instead of some company like Durasolid who never even once thanked us for plugging their product in our videos and generating tons of sales for them.

 

[BoomerBob]

That's the one I bought; from Donald the Bonald. Besides being $100 cheaper; it's a better tool for the reasons you mentioned.

Rear Wheel Axle Bearing Puller & Tone Ring Tool /Installer Toyota 4Runner et al | eBay

 

[TejasRunner01]

Do any of you know a way to get the retainer off in order to put a new on "flipped" as [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] suggested without a press? I am a bit nervous to use a cutting wheel because if I am not going to the trouble to replace down to the bearing I don't want to score the skid control rotor or the axle shaft.

Thoughts on how to get the retainer off? I think you could possible heat it up enough to get it on 5mm passed polish.

 

[TejasRunner01]

Do any of you know a way to get the retainer off in order to put a new on "flipped" as [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] suggested without a press? I am a bit nervous to use a cutting wheel because if I am not going to the trouble to replace down to the bearing I don't want to score the skid control rotor or the axle shaft.

Thoughts on how to get the retainer off? I think you could possible heat it up enough to get it on 5mm passed polish.

 

[Bad Luck]

Even if you get the retainer off without a press you will still need a press to put it back on.

 

[TejasRunner01]

I have been looking into getting a press, looks like you can get a 12 ton HF press for $89 atm.. The hard part is investing another $170 into the SST tool. Sounds like $500+ is going to get spent changing the bearing minimum, or $175ish is getting spent repairing inner seal, o-ring, flipping retainer, repacking bearing and new shoes. This is assuming I can somehow flip the retainer without a press.

 

[mtbtim]

I have been looking into getting a press, looks like you can get a 12 ton HF press for $89 atm.. The hard part is investing another $170 into the SST tool. Sounds like $500+ is going to get spent changing the bearing minimum, or $175ish is getting spent repairing inner seal, o-ring, flipping retainer, repacking bearing and new shoes. This is assuming I can somehow flip the retainer without a press.

Go ahead and splurge on the 20 ton press. It's not that much more and it can handle all the jobs on your 3rd Gen. If you ever need to do front wheel bearings, that 12 ton press might not cut it. If you like to wrench, the 20 ton press is a no-brainer.

As for the axle tool investment, if you don't want to keep it, put it back up for sale on Ebay for a slight discount over a new one and you'll get some of your money back. Maybe try to sell it first on Craigslist to save the shipping and fees from Ebay.

At the end of the day, you're still saving lots of money. Dealerships and other shops charge big money for this repair and then screw it up.

 

[TejasRunner01]

Go ahead and splurge on the 20 ton press. It's not that much more and it can handle all the jobs on your 3rd Gen. If you ever need to do front wheel bearings, that 12 ton press might not cut it. If you like to wrench, the 20 ton press is a no-brainer.



As for the axle tool investment, if you don't want to keep it, put it back up for sale on Ebay for a slight discount over a new one and you'll get some of your money back. Maybe try to sell it first on Craigslist to save the shipping and fees from Ebay.



At the end of the day, you're still saving lots of money. Dealerships and other shops charge big money for this repair and then screw it up.

Thanks Tim, I surely appreciate all of your input. This is probably the route I will eventually take as I do enjoy wrenching.

What is y'all's thoughts on just putting on new shoes since nothing is in the drums as a bandaid until it eventually seeps through the bearing? The bearing is being lubricated currently, the bearing is tight and the abs sensor is magnetic so truly I don't know what it is hurting at the moment. Also.. could this be because I used synth gear oil??

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

 

[BoomerBob]

Even if you get the retainer off without a press you will still need a press to put it back on.

Not really. By using a 1.5" pipe you can slam it home. Go to the 5 minute mark in this video to see how. You will notice they used a homemade tool to press out the bearing earlier in the video so some kind of tool is still needed.

YouTube

 

[Drcoffee]

The new retainer can be installed by heating it with a propane torch and then quickly run it down the axle. I would suggest putting a stop where you want it to sit. Once it cools it will shrink to fit.

 

[BoomerBob]

FYI: The HF 20 ton press is on sale again for $149.

20 Ton Shop Press - Hydraulic Shop Presses on Sale

 

[Bad Luck]

I stand corrected. There are several shady methods available to install another retainer with the hopes of getting it in the right spot.

 

[catrains]

Your problem is the gear gear leaking into the rear drum. do not use brake cleaner because this product has acetone in it and it will destroy all the rubber seals. use mineral spirits to clean it up then check to see after a few days where the leak is ,, use a paint brush in a container with the mineral spirits .. also do the brake pads to remove the gear oil..

replacing the axle bearing on these is not a good day need special tools..possible the axle is worn and the seal cannot work..

 

[Bad Luck]

Your problem is the gear gear leaking into the rear drum. do not use brake cleaner because this product has acetone in it and it will destroy all the rubber seals. use mineral spirits to clean it up then check to see after a few days where the leak is ,, use a paint brush in a container with the mineral spirits .. also do the brake pads to remove the gear oil..

replacing the axle bearing on these is not a good day need special tools..possible the axle is worn and the seal cannot work..

The inner axle seal is leaking. That's literally the only way you are getting gear oil in the abs cavity short of putting gear oil in there through the abs sensor hole.

 

[Kanoe]

What is y'all's thoughts on just putting on new shoes since nothing is in the drums as a bandaid until it eventually seeps through the bearing? The bearing is being lubricated currently, the bearing is tight and the abs sensor is magnetic so truly I don't know what it is hurting at the moment. Also.. could this be because I used synth gear oil??

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

There is no real outer seal as such. There is the rubber dust boot seal, and the bearing side plate but there is no real oil seal on the outside of the ABS cavity. If you have that much oil in the cavity, you have external leakage or soon will.

Didn't this thread start with you having gunk build up and sticking shoes? Leaking gear oil.