Rear Hatch Wiring Fix

[mtbtim]

Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video showing how to fix a problem that can happen with our rigs over time from the opening and closing of the rear hatch. The wires that lead from the body to the hatch can fatigue over time and break or the sheathing cracks and the wires could ground out. This video shows you how you can go about repairing the wires so you can once again have a working rear window and/or working rear wiper.

Special thanks to [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] who provided me a digital copy of the wiring diagram for a 97 4runner which worked to give me the information I sought for my 98. Also a big thanks [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] who was the one who hooked up Charlie with the wiring diagram in the first place. Thanks Dudes!


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[phattyduck]

Good timing on this video! I just noticed that my rear window no longer works and it lights the center brake light when I try to use it... I'd say there are a few wiring issues back there! Even better, I have a 4-wheeling day trip planned for this weekend. :frusty:

Copper work hardens with use, so it gets more and more brittle with age. You should get another 10+ years out of the repair, at least on the wires you fixed. I like to solder and heat shrink these, just because it makes a smaller joint. You still have to stagger them and keep solder joints away from bending locations.

-Charlie

PS. Based on how much dust there is behind your panels, it looks like your rear vent flap is gone... that allows a ton of dust in behind that rear driver's quarter panel. Time for another video?

 

[mtbtim]

Good timing on this video! I just noticed that my rear window no longer works and it lights the center brake light when I try to use it... I'd say there are a few wiring issues back there! Even better, I have a 4-wheeling day trip planned for this weekend. :frusty:

Copper work hardens with use, so it gets more and more brittle with age. You should get another 10+ years out of the repair, at least on the wires you fixed. I like to solder and heat shrink these, just because it makes a smaller joint. You still have to stagger them and keep solder joints away from bending locations.

-Charlie

PS. Based on how much dust there is behind your panels, it looks like your rear vent flap is gone... that allows a ton of dust in behind that rear driver's quarter panel. Time for another video?

I was going to try out solder connectors but they arrived too late to my house and we wanted to get the video shot. My vent flap was missing for a while but I did replace it. No video though. I figured out a way to replace just the flap using my old plastic piece because I didn't want to remove the bumper.

 

[sleepydad]

Good timing on this video!

.

I'm starting to think Tim has been sneaking around causing cable damage because last week my 98 the window just stopped working... I did some poking around and yep the wires were damaged.

this is sarcasm but my truck did the exactly same thing... like 22-23 years of service and wire fails. too much grocery getting I guess.

 

[mtbtim]

I'm starting to think Tim has been sneaking around causing cable damage because last week my 98 the window just stopped working... I did some poking around and yep the wires were damaged.

this is sarcasm but my truck did the exactly same thing... like 22-23 years of service and wire fails. too much grocery getting I guess.

Well Andy, when it rains, it pours I guess. At least it's a fairly straight forward and easy fix.

 

[4Skinner98]

So I was curious about what my wires look like after seeing the video. At least 4 wires severed! Thanks for the vid! Going to tackle this soon.

 

[mtbtim]

So I was curious about what my wires look like after seeing the video. At least 4 wires severed! Thanks for the vid! Going to tackle this soon.

Good luck with the repair.

 

[brillo_76]

I was going to try out solder connectors but they arrived too late to my house and we wanted to get the video shot. My vent flap was missing for a while but I did replace it. No video though. I figured out a way to replace just the flap using my old plastic piece because I didn't want to remove the bumper.

I myself always solder and heat shrink wire joints as well. Granted the wire cant flex through the solder and heat shrink section very well. I mostly never have to go back in to repair again.

Drivers door is just as common as the tailgate for wiring to fail.. lts great to see a video done on it.. As with the age of these now. Extremely common to have failing wires in moving joints.

As always Great Job to Tim and Crew..

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

I myself always solder and heat shrink wire joints as well. Granted the wire cant flex through the solder and heat shrink section very well. I mostly never have to go back in to repair again.

Drivers door is just as common as the tailgate for wiring to fail.. lts great to see a video done on it.. As with the age of these now. Extremely common to have failing wires in moving joints.

As always Great Job to Tim and Crew..

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Yup, my drivers door had a couple broken wires that I had to fix.

Haven't had any issues with the rear hatch though (everything works) but I haven't looked to see if any wires are starting to break (they probably are).

 

[mtbtim]

I myself always solder and heat shrink wire joints as well. Granted the wire cant flex through the solder and heat shrink section very well. I mostly never have to go back in to repair again.

Drivers door is just as common as the tailgate for wiring to fail.. lts great to see a video done on it.. As with the age of these now. Extremely common to have failing wires in moving joints.

As always Great Job to Tim and Crew..

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Good to know about the wires that lead to the door. I guess they are a problem too.

 

[brillo_76]

Good to know about the wires that lead to the door. I guess they are a problem too.

Yes always have been since wires were in the door. Got worse when power windows and locks went in. I always wanted Toyota to make a foot replaceable section on all door jams with connections. but they are after cost savings and its cheaper to just have the wires in one harness.

10 years old its iffy. 15 more probable for wires to break. 20+ its almost a grantee that the owner will be fixing some wires from time to time.

Just what I observed over the years. Mostly its the tailgates and or driver doors then the other wires in the other doors will go. If anyone wants to know the progression.. ;-)

 

[4Skinner98]

You the man Timy! My rear window has been out of commission for a couple years now. 5 wires fixed and now I have one of the best features of the 3rd gen working again! Now on to tackle the lock barrel pushed in that I just noticed.

 

[phattyduck]

Good timing on this video! I just noticed that my rear window no longer works and it lights the center brake light when I try to use it... I'd say there are a few wiring issues back there! Even better, I have a 4-wheeling day trip planned for this weekend. :frusty:

Along with the rear window not working, the rear defrost button makes my ABS light come on. :nono: Definitely need to get in there and fix it...

-Charlie

 

[anniesball72]

Photo of rubber boot properly installed

I had to make this repair and would like to see a photo of the rubber boot where the wiring leaves the body.
I'm not sure I have it re-installed correctly. I can't tell if I'm supposed to "hook" the boot with the steel opening or if it's a compression type fit.

I should have paid more attention!

 

[mtbtim]

I had to make this repair and would like to see a photo of the rubber boot where the wiring leaves the body.
I'm not sure I have it re-installed correctly. I can't tell if I'm supposed to "hook" the boot with the steel opening or if it's a compression type fit.

I should have paid more attention!

Like I mention in the video, get the plastic sleeve the boot fits onto out the hole in the body. Get the boot properly secured to the plastic sleeve first which you will find is self-explanatory, and then pop the plastic sleeve with the boot attached back into the body. Trying to get the boot reattached to that plastic sleeve with the sleeve still plugged into the body is a serious hassle.

 

[anniesball72]

Like I mention in the video, get the plastic sleeve the boot fits onto out the hole in the body. Get the boot properly secured to the plastic sleeve first which you will find is self-explanatory, and then pop the plastic sleeve with the boot attached back into the body. Trying to get the boot reattached to that plastic sleeve with the sleeve still plugged into the body is a serious hassle.

Got it! OK. That's the way I did it. Thanks.

If done improperly looks like a great place for a leak to start.