How hard is this repair? I just picked up an 08 SRX Sport Edition two days ago. Changed out the battery yesterday, and the hatch latch won't work. Argh! I've pulled the ECU-B fuse; no luck. Any other tips, before I dive in??
Rear hatch won't open.
- Thread starter Jasonredwood
- Start date
How hard is this repair? I just picked up an 08 SRX Sport Edition two days ago. Changed out the battery yesterday, and the hatch latch won't work. Argh! I've pulled the ECU-B fuse; no luck. Any other tips, before I dive in??
Jasonredwood
Member
It’s been a while but I think it’s pretty straight forward.
headoflettuce
New member
Trunk wont open less car is on
Hey guys, I got a 2004 sr5 v8 I have been having this problem where my trunk wont open unless the key is in the on position or fully started.
Key fob will unlock the car but I don't hear the latch in the trunk unlock.
Key and Key fob wont roll the window down
Unlocking the car from the inside without the keys in the ignition still wont open
The wiper wont work until I roll down the window down and back up. Same with the auto up and down just for the back window.
All of this started happening after replacing a tail light last spring
Hey guys, I got a 2004 sr5 v8 I have been having this problem where my trunk wont open unless the key is in the on position or fully started.
Key fob will unlock the car but I don't hear the latch in the trunk unlock.
Key and Key fob wont roll the window down
Unlocking the car from the inside without the keys in the ignition still wont open
The wiper wont work until I roll down the window down and back up. Same with the auto up and down just for the back window.
All of this started happening after replacing a tail light last spring
06 4runner tailgate window and lock don’t work when the truck is running.
06 4runner tailgate window and lock don’t work when the truck is running.
Last Month:
Symptoms started with rear wiper coming on when the truck was put into drive and would randomly come on throughout driving. Around the same time the rear decklid became harder and harder to unlock. Pressing unlock on the key fob 10 or 12 times to get it to finally unlock. My rear window would only work when the key was in the run position and it would almost pulse down when you held the button. Almost stuttering like I’m rapidly pressing the down button but in reality, I’m holding it down.
Unplugged the wiper (that was very annoying)
Decklid lock started to fail even more and eventually wouldn’t unlock at all.
This Month:
Replaced the rear gate latch with 69110-35090 from amazon. Same issues, maybe a little better. Decklid was hard to unlock and would usually only unlock when you cycle the key from ACC to ON while spamming the unlock button on the driver’s door. Sometimes from the FOB if you pressed it enough.
After replacing the lock, I did reconnect the rear window wiper. It doesn’t work with the switch on the steering column and has never turned on since.
Rear window seemingly got worse and would only work on occasion and only with the key in the run position. If you try the window button on the fob the truck just lets out a beep and does nothing. Similar for if you try the key in the deck lid. Nothing happens.
Replaced the Tailgate Multiplex Control Module 89222-35010 (nothing changed, used on eBay.). I new it was good but I just had to be sure. The blue wire and small blue with red stripe are getting 12v on Tailgate Multiplex Control Module.
Cut apart the rubber wiring hardness boot that goes from the truck to the decklid. Harness looks great, no damage I could find.
Continuity tested every wire coming from the truck into the decklid. Everything tested out okay except I never found a light green with yellow striped wire in the deck lid itself to continuity test. There’s several dark green with a larger yellow stripe but nothing light green with a thin yellow stripe. Figured it didn’t matter and moved on.
Techstream pulled B2221 (Pulse sensor circuit on back door). This is the first time in the whole process I remember techstream exists. Cleared the code.
I believe the window motor itself has a pulse sensor. Replaced the window motor (used from a junkyard 85720-35150). NOW THE DEKCLID LOCK IS WORKING. Key fob, Truck running and truck off all seem to work.
Rear window still only works when the key is in the run position. But window relay in the multiplex module never stops clicking when the window button is held down. So, you can never normalize the rear window. The rear window still pulses and doesn’t go all the way down or up in one smooth motion.
This video demonstrates my point
Dropbox - IMG_0936.MOV - Simplify your life
Rear wiper still doesn’t work. Is there a pulse sense in the rear window wiper that’s causing this?
Any help would be great.
06 4runner tailgate window and lock don’t work when the truck is running.
Last Month:
Symptoms started with rear wiper coming on when the truck was put into drive and would randomly come on throughout driving. Around the same time the rear decklid became harder and harder to unlock. Pressing unlock on the key fob 10 or 12 times to get it to finally unlock. My rear window would only work when the key was in the run position and it would almost pulse down when you held the button. Almost stuttering like I’m rapidly pressing the down button but in reality, I’m holding it down.
Unplugged the wiper (that was very annoying)
Decklid lock started to fail even more and eventually wouldn’t unlock at all.
This Month:
Replaced the rear gate latch with 69110-35090 from amazon. Same issues, maybe a little better. Decklid was hard to unlock and would usually only unlock when you cycle the key from ACC to ON while spamming the unlock button on the driver’s door. Sometimes from the FOB if you pressed it enough.
After replacing the lock, I did reconnect the rear window wiper. It doesn’t work with the switch on the steering column and has never turned on since.
Rear window seemingly got worse and would only work on occasion and only with the key in the run position. If you try the window button on the fob the truck just lets out a beep and does nothing. Similar for if you try the key in the deck lid. Nothing happens.
Replaced the Tailgate Multiplex Control Module 89222-35010 (nothing changed, used on eBay.). I new it was good but I just had to be sure. The blue wire and small blue with red stripe are getting 12v on Tailgate Multiplex Control Module.
Cut apart the rubber wiring hardness boot that goes from the truck to the decklid. Harness looks great, no damage I could find.
Continuity tested every wire coming from the truck into the decklid. Everything tested out okay except I never found a light green with yellow striped wire in the deck lid itself to continuity test. There’s several dark green with a larger yellow stripe but nothing light green with a thin yellow stripe. Figured it didn’t matter and moved on.
Techstream pulled B2221 (Pulse sensor circuit on back door). This is the first time in the whole process I remember techstream exists. Cleared the code.
I believe the window motor itself has a pulse sensor. Replaced the window motor (used from a junkyard 85720-35150). NOW THE DEKCLID LOCK IS WORKING. Key fob, Truck running and truck off all seem to work.
Rear window still only works when the key is in the run position. But window relay in the multiplex module never stops clicking when the window button is held down. So, you can never normalize the rear window. The rear window still pulses and doesn’t go all the way down or up in one smooth motion.
This video demonstrates my point
Dropbox - IMG_0936.MOV - Simplify your life
Rear wiper still doesn’t work. Is there a pulse sense in the rear window wiper that’s causing this?
Any help would be great.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Have you tried to "Normalize" the windows at the driver's door, if I'm not mistaken that's the only place other than the sunroof that you need to do the "Normalize" procedure for all the windows, I have never heard of anyone "Normalizing" the rear window itself.
Normalize meaning restore the auto down feature by actuating each window all the way down while holding the down button for 1 second then immediately holding up button and continuing to hold for 1 second when the window is all the way up to restore this feature. The rear window has this feature.
My dropbox video shows the relay never stops clicking when I actuate my rear window. I believe this interrupts the normalizing process because all the rest of my windows work just fine and normalize. Unfortunately, the rear is still the problem child.
My dropbox video shows the relay never stops clicking when I actuate my rear window. I believe this interrupts the normalizing process because all the rest of my windows work just fine and normalize. Unfortunately, the rear is still the problem child.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I'm well aware of what "normalizing" the windows is, I have done it many times after disconnecting the battery to do work on the T4R, I have never "normalized" any window but the driver's door and it has never failed to make all windows work as they should even the rear window, before doing the normalizing after reconnecting the battery all the windows were acting funny, after doing the normalization at the driver's door all worked perfectly.
I had to replace this a couple years ago. I bought a cheap Chinese sku from amazon for like ~$150CAD
Pulled the panel off the back, there's a piece of plastic covering everything, peeled that back. I believe it was a couple bolts and couple wires and it was done. Very straight forward.
As for the 3rd party latch, it works, but it's not as smooth as the old one. when you close it, it sounds like it's not going to latch, but it does suck into the mechanism and I haven't seen any leaks or anything.
