Rear hatch won't open.

[draconus787]

Fixed

2006 sport edition v8, 150k.

Rear hatch was working fine this morning. Went to get the groceries out of the back and the rear door wont open. I read through most other threads but my symptoms seemed different.
So here is what I noticed.
Rear hatch wont unlock with the FOB or key.
No noise from the actuator in the back, but all the other door actuators are making noise.
Window will roll down from inside the car and using the key on the back hatch.
Rear hatch wont unlock using the door button on the driver seat.

Ill try disconnecting the battery but if that doesnt work, what do you all think is next?...

Had this same issue two weeks ago, started reading forums around and almost bought the rear hatch motor. But before i did, i disconnected the battery for like 10 minutes and that fixed it. Then i noticed that the rear mat was jamming everytime that the hatch was closed. Fixed the rear floor mat so it wouldnt jam again and no issues so far.

 

[anonymousgromers]

Something similar happened to me and I've never been able to get it open again tried every trick in the book and forums Haha just passed 3 years since it last opened for me.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[MattOB1890]

This may be on the wrong message board I’m new to this thread.
I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4.0L

I’m doing a lot to my runner as of recently. I took apart my rear hatch tonight because it will not open anymore. I thought it may have just been stuck from dirt or rust. After I cleaned it out and put it back onto the car. When I closed the door the motor stabilized the rear door and shut it. So I’m thinking it’s my button that is just not getting a signal to the motor right???

Or could the motor still be broken.the Part that causes the door to open is broken and the door stabilizer that closes it different?

Anyone wanna give this a shot.

Also doing all this so I can put in a drawer system and sleeping platform. If anyone has any blueprints or helpful suggestions on where to get a nice sleeping platform material?

 

[iclob]

Resurrecting this since I'm not able to start new threads yet...

I'm unable to get into my hatch. It's stuck closed. The actuator works and moves the latch mechanism - but I cannot open it. I can't get it to open manually with the two latches either. Tried pushing from inside and pulling from outside at the same time but had no luck.

Wondering if the mechanism is rusted and stuck on? Anyone dealt with this before?

 

[MikeinNH67]

Most likely rusted in place. Check out youtube, there's a few videos on how to get it open from the inside. Search something like "4runner hatch won't open".

 

[Quatropatrick01]

My rear hatch was rusted and stuck, took it apart and used navel jelly and then some spray lube to get it free. That fix worked for about 6 months.
Purchased new latch assembly and it is good as new. The most difficult part is using the two latches to manually open the door.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[iclob]

Yeah I've watched all the Youtube videos I can find.... but wasn't successful in opening the back. Any one in particular that addresses getting in when the latches aren't working?

The latches move when the switch/actuator activates them, but I still can't open it. I also can't move them myself by hand - it's way too hard. Can the switch somehow be disassembled while still in the gate?

Another odd thing is that I can't get the key in the gate to turn. It seems stuck.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I don't know of any way to open it without using those levers and some force. The latch mechanism bolts into the bottom of the gate and the part it grabs on the bottom of the truck is also bolted in place. From what it looks like, someone got the hatch on mine open with a crowbar before I bought it. They had the door held closed with a ratchet strap. If you can get the whole plastic panel off from the inside that will help you work on it. Something like PB blaster and lots of patience will hopefully get it done. Gotta get the penetrant into the bottom of that latch from the top and work the door in and out while moving those latch arms up (I think, been awhile).

The key stuck issue is separate, I freed mine with penetrant and working the key back and forth. Spray it into the key hole.

Here's a video that explains a bit how the latch works and you can see where you need to get the lube.
YouTube

This one is pretty much what you need to do to get it open.
YouTube

 

[MikeinNH67]

By the way, while the cover is off lube all the window tracks and cables or those will eventually seize up too. This hatch needs regular maintenance to keep it working. Also check the rubber seal at the bottom of the rear window as it wears out and allows lots of water into the hatch making the seizing issue happen faster.

Want to do more maintenance? Drop the spare and lube that winch setup too or it will eventually seize up. I use fluid film on it once or twice a year. Tell us how it goes.

 

[iclob]

I don't know of any way to open it without using those levers and some force. The latch mechanism bolts into the bottom of the gate and the part it grabs on the bottom of the truck is also bolted in place. From what it looks like, someone got the hatch on mine open with a crowbar before I bought it. They had the door held closed with a ratchet strap. If you can get the whole plastic panel off from the inside that will help you work on it. Something like PB blaster and lots of patience will hopefully get it done. Gotta get the penetrant into the bottom of that latch from the top and work the door in and out while moving those latch arms up (I think, been awhile).

The key stuck issue is separate, I freed mine with penetrant and working the key back and forth. Spray it into the key hole.

Here's a video that explains a bit how the latch works and you can see where you need to get the lube.
YouTube

This one is pretty much what you need to do to get it open.
YouTube

Thanks for the links.

I've got the panel off. The funny thing is that the levers move fine with the actuator. but I can't get them to move together. I sprayed a bunch of penetrant on it in the latch area last weekend and tried to work it around. Hopefully it's been pooled in the right spot all week. I'll give it another good go this weekend to see if I can get things moving.

The gate needs a regulator too and I'm starting to wonder if getting a tailgate from a wrecker might be the best bet. There are lots around, but of course none close.

And my spare mechanism is already failed - it's on the list. Projects are fun.....right?

 

[MikeinNH67]

They can be fun but not working outside in 20F temps. What do you need a regulator for?

 

[EthanZ]

So i'm having the same problem. it started after my trailer hitch receiver hit the incline of my driveway while reversing up the driveway. i disconnected the battery, and it worked for a few days then stopped. Today I replaced the actuator, but still doesn't work. So, I ordered a the latch release switch. Hopefully that fixes it because I'm running out of ideas. How often do the ECUs go out on these trucks? Could wiring harness have been damaged from receiver hitting driveway??? I saw an earlier post about a sensor throwing a code, is the sensor in the actuator or release switch?

 

[EthanZ]

So i'm having the same problem. it started after my trailer hitch receiver hit the incline of my driveway while reversing up the driveway. i disconnected the battery, and it worked for a few days then stopped. Today I replaced the actuator, but still doesn't work. So, I ordered a the latch release switch. Hopefully that fixes it because I'm running out of ideas. How often do the ECUs go out on these trucks? Could wiring harness have been damaged from receiver hitting driveway??? I saw an earlier post about a sensor throwing a code, is the sensor in the actuator or release switch?

Replaced the release switch just now and reset the ECU. Seems to be working now. Fingers crossed.

 

[iclob]

They can be fun but not working outside in 20F temps. What do you need a regulator for?

Yeah I went to India for a few months to bail on the cold. Finally back to the gate now.

I managed to get into the back yesterday. The issue seems to be related to central locking. I disconnected the battery then unlocked the doors - then I went to the back and applied a bit of pressure on to the gate (found this advice in another thread) while I pulled on the switch. This takes some pressure off the mechanism which is weak and full of dirt/rust allowing the latch to get free.

I removed the latch mechanism and cleaned a ton of corrosion out and it seems to work reliably as long as I disconnect the battery first.

My key switch in the gate won't move at all - so I think this is impacting the gate function. I only can get the gate to open after disconnecting the battery. When I try to open it again the latch does not activate as I think it may believe the gate is locked. When I pull the battery again, I can get another single open of the trunk.

Any recommendations of getting into the key mechanism to clean it up? Or how to test the sensor that feeds into the gate control unit?

My regulator is completely busted - the clips have rusted off the glass - and the glass is held up with wood. So much corrosion in this poor design....

 

[MikeinNH67]

Yeah I went to India for a few months to bail on the cold. Finally back to the gate now.

I managed to get into the back yesterday. The issue seems to be related to central locking. I disconnected the battery then unlocked the doors - then I went to the back and applied a bit of pressure on to the gate (found this advice in another thread) while I pulled on the switch. This takes some pressure off the mechanism which is weak and full of dirt/rust allowing the latch to get free.

I removed the latch mechanism and cleaned a ton of corrosion out and it seems to work reliably as long as I disconnect the battery first.

My key switch in the gate won't move at all - so I think this is impacting the gate function. I only can get the gate to open after disconnecting the battery. When I try to open it again the latch does not activate as I think it may believe the gate is locked. When I pull the battery again, I can get another single open of the trunk.

Any recommendations of getting into the key mechanism to clean it up? Or how to test the sensor that feeds into the gate control unit?

My regulator is completely busted - the clips have rusted off the glass - and the glass is held up with wood. So much corrosion in this poor design....

My lock was stuck too, I used penetrating oil like PB blaster and worked it with the key. Then put some normal greasy type lube periodically. I think you can access it pretty easily with the inside door cover off.

 

[Drift Monkey]

I feel like some sort of dry lube like Teflon spray would work well for that area.

 

[Docholliday5645]

I have an 05 SR5 with about 140k. My liftgate also just stopped working suddenly. This is the only post I found with the same symptoms. Every other post I found had a stuck/rusted actuator or ALL the electrical in the rear was out(window, wiper, etc) or the actuator would try to work. I have no noise from the actuator and everything else works (window, wiper). Ordered a new actuator for $200 but still doesn't work. I didn't install it, just plugged it in to test first. Now I'm assuming the switch is bad, not the actuator, but is there something I need to do to reset the new actuator? I don't want to order more parts or do more work if this is the solution and I just missed something. Also I was curious if the driver door button and FOB control the switch, not the actuator directly.

 

[Piggity]

I have an 05 SR5 with about 140k. My liftgate also just stopped working suddenly. This is the only post I found with the same symptoms. Every other post I found had a stuck/rusted actuator or ALL the electrical in the rear was out(window, wiper, etc) or the actuator would try to work. I have no noise from the actuator and everything else works (window, wiper). Ordered a new actuator for $200 but still doesn't work. I didn't install it, just plugged it in to test first. Now I'm assuming the switch is bad, not the actuator, but is there something I need to do to reset the new actuator? I don't want to order more parts or do more work if this is the solution and I just missed something. Also I was curious if the driver door button and FOB control the switch, not the actuator directly.

I just replaced my actuator last week, if you watch the YouTube videos on how to take off it's pretty easy. If you plug in your new one just use a screwdriver to push the lock in the actuator closed, it should close with the actuator motor and use your hatch switch to unlock it again. When doing my replacement I removed the wiring harness to the rear door ECU and then once I was done I plugged it back in. I did have to relearn the power windows on the drivers door and the rear hatch again but that's easy.

 

[Docholliday5645]

I just replaced my actuator last week, if you watch the YouTube videos on how to take off it's pretty easy. If you plug in your new one just use a screwdriver to push the lock in the actuator closed, it should close with the actuator motor and use your hatch switch to unlock it again. When doing my replacement I removed the wiring harness to the rear door ECU and then once I was done I plugged it back in. I did have to relearn the power windows on the drivers door and the rear hatch again but that's easy.

Did the new actuator work before disconnecting the ECU and re-plugging? I plugged in the new one to test and it does not operate. Wondering if a disconnect is required or if my problem lies elsewhere.

 

[Piggity]

Did the new actuator work before disconnecting the ECU and re-plugging? I plugged in the new one to test and it does not operate. Wondering if a disconnect is required or if my problem lies elsewhere.

My old one would not stay locked. I would shut the hatch and it would immediately unlock.

The new one I picked up, which was ridiculously expensive, would stay locked when I manually locked it without it connected to the hatch. I had all the plugs disconnected while I installed the new one so I don't know if it would work like that. I would disconnect the wiring off the hatch ECU and then pull the leads off the battery on the truck for 5 min. Then re-attach and try it again. Seems like an issue with the switch on the hatch handle if this does not work.