rear locker---air vs electronic---pros, cons, prices, options,----aware me

[ExCabSwap]

My buddy's 3rd gen runner also has a rear ARB.. one time he was at a red light in the snow, turned green and did a one wheel peel.. hit the ARB compressor then the locker and slammed into full lock. Zero damage to the whole unit... ARB covers you. He called in, and they said that if he's ever able to break the ARB that they'll replace the locker for him no charge.. I got m you installed with a warranty because then it includes parts and labor for then to fix it..

With either setup, electric or air, go with what makes sense for your build... Do you air down everytime you get to the trails/beach?

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[swiftneed]

yes I air down did the trail blues at rausche J1 SIMPLE did it all when it was time to leave literally I was aggressive on the gas and landed hard and heard a hit causing me to slam the brakes aird down to 18

 

[ExCabSwap]

Dang, that sucks.. I've never heard of a differential breaking when you slam on the brakes.. I don't know any fab shops on the East coast..

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[swiftneed]

I have not opened it yet but I am leaning to ARB the way it sounds on this thread

 

[jrm]

Heres one for $450..

Well now I am thinking either the ARB or a retrofit e locker. I like the thought of a retrofit, but that advantage on the ARB would be that I can knock out putting in a train horn and a trail airing system at the same time.

CL find..

Toyota 2013 fj 8.2 e locker differential complete

 

[duffdog]

I will always go with the factory E-locker in every case. I find that ARB seems to make very wimpy products. I don't know if this extends to their locker, but the rest of the stuff they sell is just not very tough. For instance, the ARB "skid plate package" for the 4runner is the junkiest, wimpiest attempt at a skid plate I have ever seen. I bent all of them on my first wheeling trip and had to reinforce them with 1/2" bar to make them worth using.

 

[nevada]

I have an onboard York 210 belt driven compressor on my 3rd gen pickup. At about 1500 rpm, the ARB dual system on a buddy's rig can pretty much keep up with it. We can run air tools, and with my 3 gallon tank compared to his 5 gallon tank, I think my impact ran a little bit longer on mine than on his before it started to slow down.. guess we'll have to get some hard numbers, and I'll look for the data sheet of cfm ratings if you want, but anything that can keep up or come close to my York really impresses me.

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that doesn't sound right. the York is almost double the output of the ARB.

the York should be 10-11 cfm, whereas the ARB is just over 6. I assume for both, that is at 0psi. the York should still be able to put out 4-6cfm at 90psi. Im not sure about the ARB.

 

[nevada]

I will always go with the factory E-locker in every case. I find that ARB seems to make very wimpy products. I don't know if this extends to their locker, but the rest of the stuff they sell is just not very tough. For instance, the ARB "skid plate package" for the 4runner is the junkiest, wimpiest attempt at a skid plate I have ever seen. I bent all of them on my first wheeling trip and had to reinforce them with 1/2" bar to make them worth using.

im pretty sure the ARB locker is not wimpy. at least not compared to the factory Elocker. I have heard of quite a few cases of them(Elocker) being broken when things get bit hard off road.

 

[ExCabSwap]

that doesn't sound right. the York is almost double the output of the ARB.

the York should be 10-11 cfm, whereas the ARB is just over 6. I assume for both, that is at 0psi. the York should still be able to put out 4-6cfm at 90psi. Im not sure about the ARB.

Notice i said at 1500 RPMs.. at 2400 where i normally run it, it's unstoppable

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[ddnww]

If you want air lockers, tank, and air horns... you really want two air system.

The reason I used the term air infrastructure in the first place is because its exactly that. You need in order for the system to function, its not an accessory or optional item.

For lockers I am getting a separate dedicated unit, the small ARB unit, just to run the lockers. You need to maintain pressure for lockers to work, and I just want a small closed system for it.

I also have a 400P Viair compressor and a tank I haven't installed yet. Space is at a premium here... even under the hood because where people put the compressor on a 4th gen I have a 2nd battery, ACR, LVD, and fuse block.

As you build system in the truck, you need to take into account space, because I found it fills up fast. Chances are the tank is going to end up in the cab if I cant find a place under the car.

I feel a lot better with two dedicated systems... I can always fail over to one or the other if I have issues. Plus I dont want accessory air to cause any complications with a mission critical system like lockers.

do you suggest 2 systems only for the reason of having a backup?

I have an onboard York 210 belt driven compressor on my 3rd gen pickup. At about 1500 rpm, the ARB dual system on a buddy's rig can pretty much keep up with it. We can run air tools, and with my 3 gallon tank compared to his 5 gallon tank, I think my impact ran a little bit longer on mine than on his before it started to slow down.. guess we'll have to get some hard numbers, and I'll look for the data sheet of cfm ratings if you want, but anything that can keep up or come close to my York really impresses me.

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nothing beats an engine driven compressor, but I wouldn't give up ac to run an edc.

My buddy's 3rd gen runner also has a rear ARB.. one time he was at a red light in the snow, turned green and did a one wheel peel.. hit the ARB compressor then the locker and slammed into full lock. Zero damage to the whole unit... ARB covers you. He called in, and they said that if he's ever able to break the ARB that they'll replace the locker for him no charge.. I got m you installed with a warranty because then it includes parts and labor for then to fix it..

With either setup, electric or air, go with what makes sense for your build... Do you air down everytime you get to the trails/beach?

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I don't air down every single time, depends on the trail conditions and how long I will be wheeling. If I had an air system, im sure that would be a different story.

CL find..

Toyota 2013 fj 8.2 e locker differential complete

thanks . nice find.

I will always go with the factory E-locker in every case. I find that ARB seems to make very wimpy products. I don't know if this extends to their locker, but the rest of the stuff they sell is just not very tough. For instance, the ARB "skid plate package" for the 4runner is the junkiest, wimpiest attempt at a skid plate I have ever seen. I bent all of them on my first wheeling trip and had to reinforce them with 1/2" bar to make them worth using.

That's one of my concerns, durability etc. thanks for the input.

 

[Bumbo]

do you suggest 2 systems only for the reason of having a backup?

No, although you can have fail over capability as an added feature...

I want dedicated system for the ARB lockers because its small enough, and inexpensive enough to add.

I dont want any accessories or need for air to effect my lockers. You need to maintain air pressure to stay locked, using a horn or air for any reason can cause the lockers to unlock when you dont want them unlocked.

Its also takes a lot longer to fill an accessory tank or two to use lockers, vs just charging the small integrated tank that comes on the small ARB compressor.

OBA / Accessory air can be used, changed, upgraded, removed or whatever without causing issues or effecting the locker system.

I just want piece of mind that its a separate system... one less thing to worry about IMO when you have it dedicated.

 

[ExCabSwap]

No, although you can have fail over capability as an added feature...

I want dedicated system for the ARB lockers because its small enough, and inexpensive enough to add.

I dont want any accessories or need for air to effect my lockers. You need to maintain air pressure to stay locked, using a horn or air for any reason can cause the lockers to unlock when you dont want them unlocked.

Its also takes a lot longer to fill an accessory tank or two to use lockers, vs just charging the small integrated tank that comes on the small ARB compressor.

OBA / Accessory air can be used, changed, upgraded, removed or whatever without causing issues or effecting the locker system.

I just want piece of mind that its a separate system... one less thing to worry about IMO when you have it dedicated.

Yup. Couldn't agree more.. because when i blew up my last York, I would have been without a locker if it weren't for the ARB compressor.

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[S4TA]

Has anyone used the same compressor for lockers and air bags? I was thinking the air bags would need their own compressor, but following the logic of having a dedicated compressor for the lockers, I would need 3 if I wanted to actually air up my tires.


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[ddnww]

No, although you can have fail over capability as an added feature...

I want dedicated system for the ARB lockers because its small enough, and inexpensive enough to add.

I dont want any accessories or need for air to effect my lockers. You need to maintain air pressure to stay locked, using a horn or air for any reason can cause the lockers to unlock when you dont want them unlocked.

Its also takes a lot longer to fill an accessory tank or two to use lockers, vs just charging the small integrated tank that comes on the small ARB compressor.

OBA / Accessory air can be used, changed, upgraded, removed or whatever without causing issues or effecting the locker system.

I just want piece of mind that its a separate system... one less thing to worry about IMO when you have it dedicated.

You can maintain pressure to the lockers by having a valve between tank and lockers, which is how I would run it if I were to go that route. I do see your logic on some of your other points. What about additional strain on the electrical system from multiple compressors.

 

[ExCabSwap]

What about additional strain on the electrical system from multiple compressors.

That shouldn't be a worry since you've hopefully installed a blue sea systems fuse panel (or the correct relays), and properly connected your compressors. My fuse panel is wired from the battery, to a keyed power starter solenoid, through a breaker, then to the fuse panel. That way all of my accessories are off while mg vehicle is off. I have another fuse panel that is connected directly to my second battery for things I need to use all the time.

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[Nyc-Runner]

Im a little confused between a retrofit and the fj e locker.. I thought they were one in the same. Im new to this particular subject.



I've read mixed reviews on the ARB compressors. I think also, some people don't have nothing to compare them to so they are happy with what they know. I come from owning two cars with custom air ride setups and used viair, zenith, and an EDC(engine driven compressor) so I am wondering which is better . I have read some that said the viairs are much better which is what I would suspect.

They are the same thing,, You would be retro fitting a FJ 3rd member with a factory elocker into your stock 4Runner housing. In order to do so since our housings aren't set up for the 3rd member with a elocker (minus the 09 trail edition) you have to notch out a space on the housing where the elocker fits in and drill and tap two new holes also, I think a little shaving down might be required near where the elocker motor is for clearance. Like I said there's a couple of good write up that you can check out and it's it's really not that back if you have the time,knowledge and decent mechanical skills.

It's all about what you want to spend and if not you want to do most of it yourself or have a shop do it for you etc. They both have their strengths and weaknesses, none of them are major but like any aftermarket or even factory part we run they could fail at some point.I would imagine installing a BN arb airlocker with compressor you wouldn't run into any issues but like I said my buddy has one in his 5th gen maybe a year and half old and already has some sort of a leak or a pinched line issue that he has to address. He does also wheel fairly hard so that could play a part who knows. I also know in the past people have had issues with they're elocker motors failing and having to replace them.

I personally think Arb airlockers are the best and if you have the money then that's the best way to go. The airlockers themselves are the best selectable lockers on the market. As far as the compressor/hoses go that's entirely up to you what you want to run.

Potential issues,,,

Arb - Air compressor, air hose leaks/pinched lines.

Elocker- Bad Motor, so locker won't engage.

CL find..



Toyota 2013 fj 8.2 e locker differential complete

This is a 8.2 so it won't work on our 4th gens. 4th gen is a 8.0 , which come off of the older FJ's 07-10. But if you could get a housing to go with that one above then you could just swap the whole housing and 3rd together like I did and would actually be a upgrade because those 8.2's are a bit beefier and stronger all together. That would be sweet! That's what my buddy upgraded in his older FJ and said the was a significantly noticeable difference between the internals in the 8.0 and 8.2 Because a lot of FJ guys where's having issues blowing thru they're rears and I think that's why Toyota upgraded them in the newer years because they got tires of replacing them under warranty. So this was a cheaper option for the older FJ guys to do to beef up they're rears with out spending thousands on a aftermarket set up like a Currie rock jock 60.



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[jrm]

Huh..

But if you could get a housing to go with that one above then you could just swap the whole housing and 3rd together like I did and would actually be a upgrade because those 8.2's are a bit beefier and stronger all together. That would be sweet! That's what my buddy upgraded in his older FJ and said the was a significantly noticeable difference between the internals in the 8.0 and 8.2

S0 what happens to the locking central diff ? and ACTRAC

 

[Bumbo]

You can maintain pressure to the lockers by having a valve between tank and lockers, which is how I would run it if I were to go that route. I do see your logic on some of your other points. What about additional strain on the electrical system from multiple compressors.

Valve is adding complexity where you dont need complexity... A manual valve is just stupid IMO as you need to keep opening and closing it to build pressure as you engage and disengage. and for the price of an electronic actuated valve you might as well just get a 2nd compressor to begin with...

As far as the electrical system,.. non issues for me. Already have a 2nd battery, automatic charging relay, low voltage disconnect, 2 aux fuse panels, correctly sized wiring and enough overhead to run anything I need including fridge, compressors, lighting, radio communications gear. But all you really need to get this off the ground is some good fusing, a relay, and correctly sized wire for the amp load of the compressor you decide to use.

 

[duffdog]

That shouldn't be a worry since you've hopefully installed a blue sea systems fuse panel (or the correct relays), and properly connected your compressors. My fuse panel is wired from the battery, to a keyed power starter solenoid, through a breaker, then to the fuse panel. That way all of my accessories are off while mg vehicle is off. I have another fuse panel that is connected directly to my second battery for things I need to use all the time.

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I think he is talking about the actual alternator. Fuses, relays and other accessories are irrelevant. The 4runner v8 has a 130A alternator. If you go over the max load for too long (such as running 2 large air compressors for too long) you will blow the alternator while on the trail. I have actually done this with my 05 and had to replace the alt when I got home. This is one reason why having any type of thing that requires an air compressor is a bad idea.

I think that the max power alt you can get for a 4th gen is 160A, which can easily be blown by running big light bars at night and then ALSO using an air compressor. Seen it happen a lot, still not convinced that the air locker is a good idea.

 

[Bumbo]

I think he is talking about the actual alternator. Fuses, relays and other accessories are irrelevant. The 4runner v8 has a 130A alternator. If you go over the max load for too long (such as running 2 large air compressors for too long) you will blow the alternator while on the trail. I have actually done this with my 05 and had to replace the alt when I got home. This is one reason why having any type of thing that requires an air compressor is a bad idea.

I think that the max power alt you can get for a 4th gen is 160A, which can easily be blown by running big light bars at night and then ALSO using an air compressor. Seen it happen a lot, still not convinced that the air locker is a good idea.

Seems like a non issue for most people... we actually have decently sized alternators even for stock... Even with that said, you bring up a point that would favor a dual compressor setup.

As an example:

My Viair 400 I use for tire air/up down has a spec sheet max of 30A, but when measured at the pump its closer to 20-24 amps with my tires filled to 32lb.

The CKSA12 ARB compressor for lockers only uses 5.5 AMPS and has an integral tank... it doesn't really get any easier than that. That electrical load is so mild you dont really need to think twice about it.

For those that do have some heavy hitting electrical requirements, be smart in how you use it. Just be aware of how you are using the available power. For example: dont run 40+ amps worth of lighting when airing up/down.

For those that want a bit more of a fool proof setup spend a little more attention to design of the electrical system.

For example: If you have 100 amps worth of accessories and only 50 amps worth of safe alternator overhead then in addition to fusing, which is done to protect the cable, you can add a breaker sized to 50 amps to feed the entire AUX fuse block.

This gives you a bit of a saftey net for those times you forget or accidentally draw more than you really wanted it to... trip a breaker, check yourself before you wreck yourself, reset, and try again. Chances are there is something you can turn off to free up overhead...