Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

mtbtim

mtbtim

Elite Member
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] let us use his rig as a test vehicle for replacing the rear lower control bushings. Mark chose some aftermarket Whiteline Polyurethane bushings as the replacements instead of using OEM. Mark did report back that his rear end has way less movement now after the job. So, it was a success!

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nq-lzK7CPKQ" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Would this fix my squirrelly rear end? Going over bumps or cracks makes the rear end feel like it’s moving around...
 
stever1000 said:
Would this fix my squirrelly rear end? Going over bumps or cracks makes the rear end feel like it’s moving around...
Click to expand...

Yes, it could. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] had these symptoms and the stability of his rear end improved a lot.
 
How long would that lube last? Presumably if they dry out they won't come out as easily as they went in?

When I swapped rear ends those bolts jiggled loose. I didn't have a torque wrench so they probably didn't get up to 107 ft-lb but it would be a good idea to use a white marker on the bolts and make sure they don't come loose over time. The last thing you want is a control arm coming loose.
 
stever1000 said:
Would this fix my squirrelly rear end? Going over bumps or cracks makes the rear end feel like it’s moving around...
Click to expand...



Exactly what [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] said.
Driving on the hwy was sketchy, especially doing 80 and going over a whoop or bump. My rear end felt like it was going to come out from under me.
I always blamed my soft rear end on my soft rear coils but after replacing the bushings, it was a night and day difference.
Now I can cruise on the hwy and not have to worry about any whoops bumps or cracks.
It feels great, definitely worth it to do the job.
 
How many miles on your rig?Mine with 200,000 still look fine,but I also know that looks can be deceiving...
 
cahaight said:
How many miles on your rig?Mine with 200,000 still look fine,but I also know that looks can be deceiving...
Click to expand...



225 now.
224 when I did the swap.
The lift and wheeling didn’t help any on wearing out the bushings any.
In the video you can see them ripped all the way around.
 
MarkamisPrime said:
Exactly what [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] said.
Driving on the hwy was sketchy, especially doing 80 and going over a whoop or bump. My rear end felt like it was going to come out from under me.
I always blamed my soft rear end on my soft rear coils but after replacing the bushings, it was a night and day difference.
Now I can cruise on the hwy and not have to worry about any whoops bumps or cracks.
It feels great, definitely worth it to do the job.
Click to expand...

Awesome! I was beginning to fear my rear was shot but maybe this is the fix
 
I'm about to tackle this next, long sweeping turns with a bump in the highway is scary. Any opinions on available bushing choices ?
Anyone else go with Whiteline ?
Thanks again for another great video !
 
mtbtim said:
Hey Dudes,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] let us use his rig as a test vehicle for replacing the rear lower control bushings. Mark chose some aftermarket Whiteline Polyurethane bushings as the replacements instead of using OEM. Mark did report back that his rear end has way less movement now after the job. So, it was a success!

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nq-lzK7CPKQ" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Click to expand...

Could you post the part numbers below the video for reference?
 
stever1000 said:
Could you post the part numbers below the video for reference?
Click to expand...

The part numbers are in the video description. For future reference, we put a lot of information in the video description and pinned comments. Can't speak for other YouTubers but Sean and I put lots of helpful info in the video description and will also use a pinned comment usually for an update on the job.
 
mtbtim said:
The part numbers are in the video description. For future reference, we put a lot of information in the video description and pinned comments. Can't speak for other YouTubers but Sean and I put lots of helpful info in the video description and will also use a pinned comment usually for an update on the job.
Click to expand...

Ah ok I will try that. I didn't open Youtube I just clicked the embedded link to play.

After doing both the upper and lower, would you do it again in the future vs purchasing new aftermarket links like this from Mevotech: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7525832&cc=1364611&jsn=304&jsn=304
 
stever1000 said:
Ah ok I will try that. I didn't open Youtube I just clicked the embedded link to play.

After doing both the upper and lower, would you do it again in the future vs purchasing new aftermarket links like this from Mevotech: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7525832&cc=1364611&jsn=304&jsn=304
Click to expand...

I'm a believer in you get what you pay for. Those arms are certainly very affordable at $33/each, and if they are a quality replacement, it would be a no-brainer to buy these. Question is, are they quality. I don't know because I have no experience with them.

The Whiteline poly bushings are $70, the same price you'd pay for those 2 complete arms from Rock Auto. But, like I mentioned above, are the arms built well with good steel? Are the bushings good or will they deteriorate quickly? For me, since I own a press, I'd stick with the OEM control arms and use the Whiteline poly bushings as a replacement for the OEM bushings.

I know people have went with aftermarket front Lower Control Arms with catastrophic results. Maybe somebody on this forum will chime in if the Mevotech arms Rock Auto sells are a smart purchase.
 
octanejunkie said:
The Energy Suspension kit looks the same, installation-wise, and it's a bit cheaper at $103 than Whiteline's Bushing Kits #W63378 for lower and #W63379 for upper rear for about $70 each
Click to expand...

I became a fan of Whiteline ever since we made the Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement video. The Whiteline bushings were way better than the Energy Suspension for this application because they were just like the OEM bushing with a metal outer sleeve. The Energy Suspension were much more affordable but also required much more work.

However, for this application, maybe Energy Suspension are the better way to go. Since I'm sold on the quality of Whiteline, I'll stick with them for my bushing needs. I already bought the rear upper and lower control arm bushings for my 98 and I'll be installing them soon.
 
With limited time, the ease of install was a factor for me here. Just ordered the Whitelines (w63379 and w63378), through Energy Suspension Parts...
 
mtbtim said:
I became a fan of Whiteline ever since we made the Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement video. The Whiteline bushings were way better than the Energy Suspension for this application because they were just like the OEM bushing with a metal outer sleeve. The Energy Suspension were much more affordable but also required much more work.

However, for this application, maybe Energy Suspension are the better way to go. Since I'm sold on the quality of Whiteline, I'll stick with them for my bushing needs. I already bought the rear upper and lower control arm bushings for my 98 and I'll be installing them soon.
Click to expand...
Having done both Energy and Whiteline LCA bushings, I'd disagree about ease of install. If the vehicle has ANY corrosion, removing the LCA sleeves is a PITA. In these cases, it's simpler to just burn out the OEM rubber, and slide the Energy bushings in.
 
absalom said:
Having done both Energy and Whiteline LCA bushings, I'd disagree about ease of install. If the vehicle has ANY corrosion, removing the LCA sleeves is a PITA. In these cases, it's simpler to just burn out the OEM rubber, and slide the Energy bushings in.
Click to expand...
I think his response was in regards to the rear control arms

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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