Does anyone have a site they like to find the bushings for this? Napa has em for $25 special order but did see partsgeek I think it was for $15... wondering what the best approach is to removing the old and putting in a new bushing? tried to find a tool at Autozone but they say it's a special order too... am I better off just paying $100 for a new control arm with bushings and if either way, should I do the other side as well? surprised by the lack of info in the haynes manual and the availability of this part... guessing it usually doesn't go bad that often?
Rear Lower Control Arm
- Thread starter Brian1973
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waaahla.... think I read someone else did this as well and guess need to find that post and give em a thanks and good idea.... just waiting for the new bushing I ordered through partsgeek for $15... hope putting the new one in is as easy as it was to pull the old one out once I cut the ring 
Attachments
it's the rear arm I removed BiggJerry...
Hugo, I'll try to remember to measure when I get the new part.
I'm thinking..... watch out!!!!.... I have a 26 ton log splitter... nothing more than a hydraulic press... lol if I can't bang the new sleeved bushing in with a hammer and board I may have to try that! without distroying arm hopefully! lol
Singtoe think you meant NO way to do WITHOUT press We shall see.... figured there was no way to remove the bushing without a press but I kinda got around that theory too
thanks for everyone's input...
Brian
Hugo, I'll try to remember to measure when I get the new part.
I'm thinking..... watch out!!!!.... I have a 26 ton log splitter... nothing more than a hydraulic press... lol if I can't bang the new sleeved bushing in with a hammer and board I may have to try that! without distroying arm hopefully! lol
Singtoe think you meant NO way to do WITHOUT press
We shall see.... figured there was no way to remove the bushing without a press but I kinda got around that theory too thanks for everyone's input...
Brian
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Yikes. I see you found the cause of the torque steer.
yup... you were RIGHT! appreciate all who helped....
used thee ole log splitter and a 1 inch open end wrench on one side of bushing (to keep the middle cylinder in bushing from getting pressed)... let splitter anvil push up to the wrench and slowly let the splitter push the bushing into the sleeve of the arm... it went a little crooked but after a quick readjustment, it slid it just fine.... probably should have put an open end wrench on the other end of the bushing once it was pressed in far enough since the metal sleeve inside the bushing is longer than the bushing (thus when bushing was all the way innnnn, the half inch or so of the middle cylinder was being pressed towards the anvil of the splitter thus stretching the rubber probably more than should.... all came out perfect though... $15 part fixed!!! yeeaaa :bravo:
used thee ole log splitter and a 1 inch open end wrench on one side of bushing (to keep the middle cylinder in bushing from getting pressed)... let splitter anvil push up to the wrench and slowly let the splitter push the bushing into the sleeve of the arm... it went a little crooked but after a quick readjustment, it slid it just fine.... probably should have put an open end wrench on the other end of the bushing once it was pressed in far enough since the metal sleeve inside the bushing is longer than the bushing (thus when bushing was all the way innnnn, the half inch or so of the middle cylinder was being pressed towards the anvil of the splitter thus stretching the rubber probably more than should.... all came out perfect though... $15 part fixed!!! yeeaaa :bravo:
Pikeman
New member
So the torque steer is all gone now? Do you have the part numbers for the bushings you ordered? As mentioned in your other thread mine is doing the same and i knew that my link arm bushings are toast like yours were. I was trying to hold old to replace with the TOytec ones but recently laid off so now I have to do the home fix. Thanks.
Pikeman, yes, torque steer is GONE!!! this is what I went with:
4th one down! JCC - rear,lower - control arm bushing
00 2000 Toyota 4Runner Control Arm Bushing - Suspension - AST, Beck Arnley, First Equipment Quality, JCC, Karlyn, Moog, Front Lower, Front Lower Front, Front Lower Rear, Front Upper, Rear Lower - PartsGeek
I found it was the same part number as auto parts warehouse that I've heard mentioned around here...
3rd one down... JCC rear lower
Control Arm Bushing - Auto Parts Warehouse
The parts geek part was cheaper... and shipping cost for two was only slightly more than one or maybe it was the same..... I figured one for the ruined one and figured get another as back up in case another bushing fails soon.... I see though, that if you get three from autoparts warehouse, shipping is free... It seems the part from parts geek actually shipped from a local warehouse I think? I believe they have a NewJersey address but from the time I ordered it, it took 2 business days and the tracking number provided by parts geek only showed the part traveling a short distance close by????
Not sure what toytec is but to me, bushings are bushings.... originals lasted this long so figure these should be good for quite a while... $15... can't beat it!!! the hardest part is getting the old one out.... if yours are like mine, the center barrel of mine just came out and I sawzawed a break in the circumference of the metal outer sleeve of the bushing so I could easily remove... read somewhere else on these forums that someone used a circular saw drill bit to cut out the center barrel if it isn't ruined and disconnected like mine..... then as others stated a mechanical press would be best to seat the new one... I just happened to use my log splitter and a little ingenuity to keep from ruining the part with the anvil of the splitter ;-)
Note, I did find the whole control arm was available through special order through NAPA for about $160.... they said the bushing could be ordered as well for $25 if I just wanted that.... I had to call because could not find on their website.... I asked one local foreign car shop and they said they just buy a new control arm if this issue arises because of the labor involved in removing the old... to me, $15 (plus $ for shipping) and about 5-10 minutes with a saw was pretty dang easy!!! no use throwing out an intact control arm just for a $15 bushing.... Shop also said they just replace control arms as they need too... so to answer my own question about whether both sides should be replaced at the same time, basically they said NO.... but I'll definitely be hypersensitive if I feel any kind of torque steer again.... and know I have an extra bushing.... I'd get it fixed soon! I really found it dangerous to drive with this issue.... especially if towing something!!! good luck!
this is what I went with:4th one down! JCC - rear,lower - control arm bushing
00 2000 Toyota 4Runner Control Arm Bushing - Suspension - AST, Beck Arnley, First Equipment Quality, JCC, Karlyn, Moog, Front Lower, Front Lower Front, Front Lower Rear, Front Upper, Rear Lower - PartsGeek
I found it was the same part number as auto parts warehouse that I've heard mentioned around here...
3rd one down... JCC rear lower
Control Arm Bushing - Auto Parts Warehouse
The parts geek part was cheaper... and shipping cost for two was only slightly more than one or maybe it was the same..... I figured one for the ruined one and figured get another as back up in case another bushing fails soon.... I see though, that if you get three from autoparts warehouse, shipping is free... It seems the part from parts geek actually shipped from a local warehouse I think? I believe they have a NewJersey address but from the time I ordered it, it took 2 business days and the tracking number provided by parts geek only showed the part traveling a short distance close by????
Not sure what toytec is but to me, bushings are bushings.... originals lasted this long so figure these should be good for quite a while... $15... can't beat it!!! the hardest part is getting the old one out.... if yours are like mine, the center barrel of mine just came out and I sawzawed a break in the circumference of the metal outer sleeve of the bushing so I could easily remove... read somewhere else on these forums that someone used a circular saw drill bit to cut out the center barrel if it isn't ruined and disconnected like mine..... then as others stated a mechanical press would be best to seat the new one... I just happened to use my log splitter and a little ingenuity to keep from ruining the part with the anvil of the splitter ;-)
Note, I did find the whole control arm was available through special order through NAPA for about $160.... they said the bushing could be ordered as well for $25 if I just wanted that.... I had to call because could not find on their website.... I asked one local foreign car shop and they said they just buy a new control arm if this issue arises because of the labor involved in removing the old... to me, $15 (plus $ for shipping) and about 5-10 minutes with a saw was pretty dang easy!!! no use throwing out an intact control arm just for a $15 bushing.... Shop also said they just replace control arms as they need too... so to answer my own question about whether both sides should be replaced at the same time, basically they said NO.... but I'll definitely be hypersensitive if I feel any kind of torque steer again.... and know I have an extra bushing.... I'd get it fixed soon! I really found it dangerous to drive with this issue.... especially if towing something!!! good luck!
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Pikeman
New member
Brian- when I suggested you look at your bushings again but one side lifted I was 99.8% sure this was the cause for the torque steer. I off road my truck pretty hard at times and the Toytec ones I was referring to are the over sized havy duty link arms.
Lower control arms DOM tube - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
or these ones
Extreme Duty Lower Links - $310.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
Thanks for the reply back.
Lower control arms DOM tube - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
or these ones
Extreme Duty Lower Links - $310.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
Thanks for the reply back.
Understood and yes, did put one rear wheel up on a ramp... looked around and still wasn't seeing much... as in the initial picture it's hard to tell until looking VERY closely... I suppose if something was broken or the whole bushing was missing it would have been spotted faster Too see the issue I just needed more than a scan with a flashlight... really had to get my eye CLOSE to these bushings to check for anything out of the norm...
Your idea of one side up and other side down DID come in very handy though when reinstalling the control arm... bolt holes weren't lining up for the arm.... starting thinking "how did I get this part off if it was this unaligned"... this all went through my mind for about 2 seconds but just the initial mention about twisting the frame made sense and I then used a car jack to lift the opposite side of the rear axle and slowly lowered keeping an eye on the rear hole of the arm until it was fairly close (since I installed first bolt on the frame side of the arm - towards the front)... then used a crowbar and was able to get it all lined up for complete install.... :banana:
and yes, did put one rear wheel up on a ramp... looked around and still wasn't seeing much... as in the initial picture it's hard to tell until looking VERY closely... I suppose if something was broken or the whole bushing was missing it would have been spotted faster Too see the issue I just needed more than a scan with a flashlight... really had to get my eye CLOSE to these bushings to check for anything out of the norm...Your idea of one side up and other side down DID come in very handy though when reinstalling the control arm... bolt holes weren't lining up for the arm.... starting thinking "how did I get this part off if it was this unaligned"... this all went through my mind for about 2 seconds but just the initial mention about twisting the frame made sense and I then used a car jack to lift the opposite side of the rear axle and slowly lowered keeping an eye on the rear hole of the arm until it was fairly close (since I installed first bolt on the frame side of the arm - towards the front)... then used a crowbar and was able to get it all lined up for complete install.... :banana:
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A follow up on this topic... I actually had to redo this job another time, the center bushing that got pressed slightly upon reinstall may have tore the rubber just slightly.... I started getting just a little torque steering a few months later and felt almost the same direction but not as pronounced.... sometimes when I come across problems no one seems to have I wonder, why does this happen to me!? lol As is the case alot of times, it's usually another problem that compounds a separate problem....
If you look in the first picture I believe you can see the muffler in the foreground... now notice the slightly grey material on the muffler... that would be an attempt to fix what WAS a slight exhaust leak in the seam of the muffler... was minor and the muffler paste covered it up pretty good for a while.... I started thinking about this when I noticed the replaced bushing sorta looked a bit dry rotted as well as the slight tear around that center bushing... and it was only a few months old!!! by this time the muffler was in need of replacement and was on "The List".... but when I got under the vehicle while it was running looking around, I noticed the exhaust gases were sorta shooting towards this bushing... Soooooo, that is my theory on why I had this issue
If you look in the first picture I believe you can see the muffler in the foreground... now notice the slightly grey material on the muffler... that would be an attempt to fix what WAS a slight exhaust leak in the seam of the muffler... was minor and the muffler paste covered it up pretty good for a while.... I started thinking about this when I noticed the replaced bushing sorta looked a bit dry rotted as well as the slight tear around that center bushing... and it was only a few months old!!! by this time the muffler was in need of replacement and was on "The List".... but when I got under the vehicle while it was running looking around, I noticed the exhaust gases were sorta shooting towards this bushing... Soooooo, that is my theory on why I had this issue
xhimsa12x
New member
your post really helped me diagnose my torque steering and found that both my lower control arms will go side to side with enough pressure. I'm going to replace these bushings too. How exactly did you get the bushings into the control arm? I don't have a press but I do have a vice, think I could use the vice and torque it down a little at a time till it pushes it's way in? I really should probably do the bushings on my rear uppers too and read in another post that the bushings are the same size, think I might buy 4 of these and see if I can make it happen.
Just wanted to further post more info. I've ordered over 3 of these bushings for this control rod and am convinced, they don't last!!! either they have been sitting in a warehouse dry rotting or something else is at play here but I should not have to continue to deal with this problem. Searching around online for the lower control arms and looks like I can find a pair of them new for around $125-$150.... Better than dealing with this issue every year!
MStudt
official vendor
What bushings did you use? I see the links in a post earlier on in the thread, but they all seem to be OEM replacement bushings. There's been a very lengthy discussion about bushings on here, and it seems to be ongoing. The aftermarket OEM replacement bushings like Moog seem to be junk, and people seem to have issues with them. I don't see where you tried Whiteline, or even Energy Suspension bushings. If all these bushings are failing on you replacing the link isn't going to help either. You need to figure how you're eating up bushings faster than people rotate their tires.
