Rear Lower Control Arm

theithec said:
Great tip. That's what I'll be using instead of a climbing rope pulley system rigged to the front wheel and assisted by my boot. :doh:
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I may not even move for you. I did mine in my gravel driveway with a slight incline as well. Had I been on level ground it might have been an issue at all.
 
Do one side at a time or it might be quite a bit harder? Can try using one ramp and driving one back tire up it... One time, I drove it all the way up to a resting position, another time I drove it up just barely onto the ramp to apply some forward pressure to the axle... putting the ramp behind truck and driving backwards up seemed to produce best results vs putting ramp under truck and driving forward onto the ramp. depends on many variables as to what is easier to keep the arm from having tension on it. I used a jack to raise one side of axle too once... if you can't get a bolt out or in, try a different method to move axle in correct position. Having both arms out at the same time will cause the axle to definitely shift towards the rear and put some stress on other components in the suspension. I used a heavy duty ratcheting strap once as well when took both arms off at same time...

I replaced both arms yesterday with the brand new oem arms that I got from Amazon for $125 for both! and it feels tight again. Thank you baby Jesus! Hopefully done with that project for a while... Wondering what symptoms I might get if the uppers are as worn out?
 
Brian1973 said:
Do one side at a time or it might be quite a bit harder? Can try using one ramp and driving one back tire up it... One time, I drove it all the way up to a resting position, another time I drove it up just barely onto the ramp to apply some forward pressure to the axle... putting the ramp behind truck and driving backwards up seemed to produce best results vs putting ramp under truck and driving forward onto the ramp. depends on many variables as to what is easier to keep the arm from having tension on it. I used a jack to raise one side of axle too once... if you can't get a bolt out or in, try a different method to move axle in correct position. Having both arms out at the same time will cause the axle to definitely shift towards the rear and put some stress on other components in the suspension. I used a heavy duty ratcheting strap once as well when took both arms off at same time...

I replaced both arms yesterday with the brand new oem arms that I got from Amazon for $125 for both! and it feels tight again. Thank you baby Jesus! Hopefully done with that project for a while... Wondering what symptoms I might get if the uppers are as worn out?
Click to expand...

link!?
 
Brian1973 said:
Do one side at a time or it might be quite a bit harder? Can try using one ramp and driving one back tire up it... One time, I drove it all the way up to a resting position, another time I drove it up just barely onto the ramp to apply some forward pressure to the axle... putting the ramp behind truck and driving backwards up seemed to produce best results vs putting ramp under truck and driving forward onto the ramp. depends on many variables as to what is easier to keep the arm from having tension on it. I used a jack to raise one side of axle too once... if you can't get a bolt out or in, try a different method to move axle in correct position. Having both arms out at the same time will cause the axle to definitely shift towards the rear and put some stress on other components in the suspension. I used a heavy duty ratcheting strap once as well when took both arms off at same time...

I replaced both arms yesterday with the brand new oem arms that I got from Amazon for $125 for both! and it feels tight again. Thank you baby Jesus! Hopefully done with that project for a while... Wondering what symptoms I might get if the uppers are as worn out?
Click to expand...

Can you post a link to the ones you bought?
 
how well do the poly tuff hold up? no mention of this. my truck's rears are causing this torque steer and i need to get it corrected. or i'll just shell out 400 for new OEM uppers and lowers. pain in the ass pressing this crap out.
 
Chuckles89 said:
I have the PolyTuff bushings and they are great!

Complete set:
Rear Suspension Arm Bush Kit 4Runner Surf KZN185 KDN185 RZN185 VZN185 Toyota 4x4 | eBay

Uppers only:
Rear Upper Trailing Arm Bush Kit 4Runner Surf KZN185 KDN185 RZN185 VZN185 Toyota | eBay

Lowers only:
Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bush Kit 4Runner Surf KZN185 KDN185 RZN185 VZN185 Toyota | eBay
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how are these? good, great? mine are bad. OE arms are 410 for uppers and lowers. these look like they work. any problems with fitment? tight, loose what? I need to resolve this problem asap.
 
01thunder said:
how are these? good, great? mine are bad. OE arms are 410 for uppers and lowers. these look like they work. any problems with fitment? tight, loose what? I need to resolve this problem asap.
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They are great! The only problem I have with them is that I have so spray some lube on them every other month so they don't squeak.
 
Mevotech

I installed a Mevotech CMS 861170 rear control arm on the passenger side as it was really bad and the truck was walking. They drivers side doesn't look much better and I'm debating buying another one at Rock Auto. Anyone have any experience with these as far as durability? Toyota ones are about 3x as much.
 
Torque Spec

Quick question. I installed the rear lower control arm tonight and torqued it to 50 ft lbs as a guess. I've found what it looks to be in the newbie section. It states:
Lower control arm x Frame-107

Lower control arm x Axle housing-107

That seems like a lot for these bolts. I just want to make sure this is correct before I snap a bolt off.

On a side note jacking up the body on the other side enables you to put the bolt right in. I tried to pry it first and then gave up and got the jack out. Nice tip I found here.
 
Dale Bob said:
Quick question. I installed the rear lower control arm tonight and torqued it to 50 ft lbs as a guess. I've found what it looks to be in the newbie section. It states:
Lower control arm x Frame-107

Lower control arm x Axle housing-107

That seems like a lot for these bolts. I just want to make sure this is correct before I snap a bolt off.

On a side note jacking up the body on the other side enables you to put the bolt right in. I tried to pry it first and then gave up and got the jack out. Nice tip I found here.
Click to expand...

They're beefy bolts and should be fine. I just did mine and torqued 'em to 100 ft lbs since that's as high as my wrench measures, then gave it a bit more.
 
Torque

Thanks Endgame they torqued just fine. I did seem like a lot to me.
The truck definitely needed it even though it appeared OK. Rides better now. It was a bit floaty. Next up an alignment. The truck is coming along and I like it more than I expected.
 
Just finished some maintenance and this happened

I just got done replacing the clutch master cylinder and slave master cylinder. Did the first test drive didn't notice anything and on the second test drive on the highway noticed it was driving crooked a little bit. Would this be something I can tackle or do I need to take it to a shop with the press or something? Rear end lower control arm
 

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OEM or Rock Auto or Something Else

Sorry to revive an old subject. My '99 has recently began the "Death Wobble"...or at least that's what is referred too on my old Pathfinder. Wondering if the fix for 4Runners is the same, which was replacing the rear lower control arms. Also, I saw it mentioned earlier in this thread the RA Mevotech might not be the route to go. So what do you long time users recommend for this fix and what brand?

If not, is it more shock related than control arms or a combination of both? Completely new here as I have owned the vehicle for less than a year.
 
PatrickStapler said:
Sorry to revive an old subject. My '99 has recently began the "Death Wobble"...or at least that's what is referred too on my old Pathfinder. Wondering if the fix for 4Runners is the same, which was replacing the rear lower control arms. Also, I saw it mentioned earlier in this thread the RA Mevotech might not be the route to go. So what do you long time users recommend for this fix and what brand?

If not, is it more shock related than control arms or a combination of both? Completely new here as I have owned the vehicle for less than a year.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you need to stop and take stock of what condition the suspension components are in. If the shocks and rear LCAs are worn out then replace both. I upgraded my rear LCAs earlier this month and have been much happier with the new stability. The old bushings were shot to pieces so they lacked a lot of stability. The rear shocks are on my to-do list but not at the top right now.
 
Thanks tx_shooter. I just replied to another thread regarding shocks. I'm a little confused as which to buy...

Which LCA's did you buy...OEM or other?
 
Just get some decent looking OEM LCA's from the junkyard, easy to swap out. The rear shocks on my mom's 4runner are completely shot and it is horrible on bumps but there is no death wobble.
 
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