Rear shock bolts are a M*@#%#^%$#ker

[maxspeed96ct]

I just need to vent, the top bolts on the strut are almost impossible to get to , let alone loosen.

I got one loose but then the damm thing got stuck after just a few turns on the rust at the top of the bolt.

The other strut I just cant break loose.

I sprayed the hell out of everything with PB blaster.

Im going to try again tomoro , I was damm close to just putting a sawzaw to the top part of the shock were the rubber gromet is...

If I cant get it loose tomoro then sawzaw it is !!! :gun4:

 

[YotaZach85]

The last Runner I worked on ended up getting the passenger side cut off with a sawzall! It was the only thing we could come up with, the driver side came off no problem :wtf:

 

[Elton H]

if the shocks are old and crap cut em off

 

[TheDurk]

If you are talking about the stock Tokikos with the steel upper boot--here is the easy way. Remove the bottom nut first. Then get a breaker bar in place on the top nut, and put a pair of big honking ChannelLocks on the upper boot and turn. Both of mine just snapped off right at the nut--time elapsed, maybe two minutes per side, not counting all the other things I tried that didn't work.

This won't work on shocks without the hard upper boot or that have a beefier piston rod, but the stockers are buttah. I could do both this way before you got started with a Sawzall.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Its always the passenger side people have problems with.. I had to sawzall mine too. But the driver's side came out fine...except for being near impossible to get to.

 

[fightman80]

If you are talking about the stock Tokikos with the steel upper boot--here is the easy way. Remove the bottom nut first. Then get a breaker bar in place on the top nut, and put a pair of big honking ChannelLocks on the upper boot and turn. Both of mine just snapped off right at the nut--time elapsed, maybe two minutes per side, not counting all the other things I tried that didn't work.

X2 on this one!

 

[YotaZach85]

If you are talking about the stock Tokikos with the steel upper boot--here is the easy way. Remove the bottom nut first. Then get a breaker bar in place on the top nut, and put a pair of big honking ChannelLocks on the upper boot and turn. Both of mine just snapped off right at the nut--time elapsed, maybe two minutes per side, not counting all the other things I tried that didn't work.

This won't work on shocks without the hard upper boot or that have a beefier piston rod, but the stockers are buttah. I could do both this way before you got started with a Sawzall.

Not to be a Debby Downer but it took less time to and effort to cut it off, just my spare change (Why don't we have a 2 penny thing?)

 

[yc4runner]

I agree they are a pain in the neck, i actually ended up taking a cut off wheel to the little extra like 2"'s of body between the body and frake to get a wrench to the top nut

 

[bak3rme]

when we replaced my shocks i was afraid of this also. However..mine came off like 5 minutes on each side. i just held it in place with a socket on top while a buddy twisted the shocks off with his hands. no more than 10 mins for both sides...guess i was lucky?

 

[TheDurk]

Not to be a Debby Downer but it took less time to and effort to cut it off, just my spare change (Why don't we have a 2 penny thing?)

It's on my friend. Who has a rig needing new shocks in neutral ground--say between Trenton and the Delaware River? We flip for choice of side and first shock to hit the ground wins! Name your stakes!

I was just reading on another forum where someone recommended putting a deep socket and long breaker bar on the nut and pulling down in order to break it off. Sounds like a plan if I ever have to do my Trekmasters that do not have a hard boot.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

I agree they are a pain in the neck, i actually ended up taking a cut off wheel to the little extra like 2"'s of body between the body and frake to get a wrench to the top nut

Man I dont know how you got that in there , I dont think I can pull that off > but good job

when we replaced my shocks i was afraid of this also. However..mine came off like 5 minutes on each side. i just held it in place with a socket on top while a buddy twisted the shocks off with his hands. no more than 10 mins for both sides...guess i was lucky?

I see you live in GA, your trucks dont get the amount of salt in the winter as new england trucks. I bet your trucks looks much better underneith

If you are talking about the stock Tokikos with the steel upper boot--here is the easy way. Remove the bottom nut first. Then get a breaker bar in place on the top nut, and put a pair of big honking ChannelLocks on the upper boot and turn. Both of mine just snapped off right at the nut--time elapsed, maybe two minutes per side, not counting all the other things I tried that didn't work.

This won't work on shocks without the hard upper boot or that have a beefier piston rod, but the stockers are buttah. I could do both this way before you got started with a Sawzall.

I have the stockers so ill give this a qwk try durk, But it almost sounds like I would need a extra set of hands to do this . Its just awkward getting my arms in there.

 

[TheDurk]

I have the stockers so ill give this a qwk try durk, But it almost sounds like I would need a extra set of hands to do this . Its just awkward getting my arms in there.

You just need to get a short breaker bar or ratchet with a deep socket (14mm I think) on the top nut. I used a 12" T-Bar. Having the bottom bolt off makes it easier to orient the nut to the socket. Then just leave it there--it'll bear up on something when you turn the shock. Then reach over the tire and grab the steel boot with the ChannelLocks while you are standing by the wheel. Squeeze really tight and turn. The shaft snaps right off with surprisingly little torque; the hard part is a good grip on the boot. I'm 58 and 285, it's not like I'm super flexible or super strong.

 

[YotaZach85]

It's on my friend. Who has a rig needing new shocks in neutral ground--say between Trenton and the Delaware River? We flip for choice of side and first shock to hit the ground wins! Name your stakes!

I was just reading on another forum where someone recommended putting a deep socket and long breaker bar on the nut and pulling down in order to break it off. Sounds like a plan if I ever have to do my Trekmasters that do not have a hard boot.

:lmao: Challenge accepted! You find the meeting place and we'll play for bragging rights and a 12 pack! :boxer:


The truck I was talking about had the Trekmasters and the soft dust cover did not help at all! My truck has the metal dust covers and just like someone else said you just hold the nut and turn the dust cover and they come right out.

 

[TheDurk]

:lmao: Challenge accepted! You find the meeting place and we'll play for bragging rights and a 12 pack! :boxer:


The truck I was talking about had the Trekmasters and the soft dust cover did not help at all! My truck has the metal dust covers and just like someone else said you just hold the nut and turn the dust cover and they come right out.

:flipoff::bluejump:OK, stakes are agreed! :uzi:All we need is a nearby volunteer who needs shocks ripped out. Needs to be good and rusted up or my technique won't work. I'd actually have to unscrew the silly thing and then the Sawzall would beat me. Any takers? I'll even go as far South as DC (since I'm down there all the time anyway.):gun4:

They won't 'come right out' if they have been eating salt for 11 years. I promise you, mine needed to be cut or broke--no way those nuts were turning. I tried PB Blaster for 3 days. I was not going to use the blue wrench that close to the gas tank.

 

[YotaZach85]

:flipoff::bluejump:OK, stakes are agreed! :uzi:All we need is a nearby volunteer who needs shocks ripped out. Needs to be good and rusted up or my technique won't work. I'd actually have to unscrew the silly thing and then the Sawzall would beat me. Any takers? I'll even go as far South as DC (since I'm down there all the time anyway.):gun4:

They won't 'come right out' if they have been eating salt for 11 years. I promise you, mine needed to be cut or broke--no way those nuts were turning. I tried PB Blaster for 3 days. I was not going to use the blue wrench that close to the gas tank.

I'm not going as far as DC! Thats 2.5 hours away for me. We should get this going soon though, I'm getting thirsty and beer tastes sooo much better when someone else buys it for you :beer: :moon:

 

[slampe]

I just did mine with a deep 14mm socket "wedged" on the top nut; used a big pair of vice grips. Once I figured out what needed turning, it was only a matter of minutes for either side.

Actually, getting a new front blinker light took me 4x as long because one of the bolts that holds the lens cap on is stripped and seized beyond all hell... That's where my obscenities were thrown--at the nominal task.

I swear the Ranchos I just installed make the rear look lower than the stock Tokicos...Hopefully I'm just crazy; I wish I would have measured beforehand.

 

[maxspeed96ct]

I just did mine with a deep 14mm socket "wedged" on the top nut; used a big pair of vice grips. Once I figured out what needed turning, it was only a matter of minutes for either side.

Actually, getting a new front blinker light took me 4x as long because one of the bolts that holds the lens cap on is stripped and seized beyond all hell... That's where my obscenities were thrown--at the nominal task.

I swear the Ranchos I just installed make the rear look lower than the stock Tokicos...Hopefully I'm just crazy; I wish I would have measured beforehand.

ut-o, I just installed ranchos ...
But I think the springs detrmine the height not the struts....




Also sawzaw with a nice long metal blade was key guys, Im not sure how "thedurk" was able to break his. But mine maybe just wasnt as weak , and everything was also coverd in pb blaaster which didnt help .

I made a cut right on the bushing above the strut. strut dropped and the left over nut poped right out .

 

[DH4Runner]

So, I just went out and took a peek at mine just to see what you guys are talking about since I'll be doing this myself very soon. Without getting too dirty or lifting the truck I can't tell how you can even access the top nut. Can someone fill me in? Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

So, I just went out and took a peek at mine just to see what you guys are talking about since I'll be doing this myself very soon. Without getting too dirty or lifting the truck I can't tell how you can even access the top nut. Can someone fill me in? Thanks

You don't need to lift it but you do need to get dirty. Get under there in between the wheels. You get to the top of the shock rod from behind; it sits in a little cup just below the floor that you can only get to from one direction. You can't see it, it's all by feel.

 

[scottishb]

I unbolted the bottom, and bent that sucker back and forth a couple times. Broke pretty easily. Use the force.