Rear shock recommendations

rear shocks

I got icons on the rear where you can dial in your firmness. Other brands may have this too. Highly recommend this adjustability so you can continually tune your ride based on conditions or load in your vehicle.
 
I got icons on the rear where you can dial in your firmness. Other brands may have this too. Highly recommend this adjustability so you can continually tune your ride based on conditions or load in your vehicle.

Which model Icon shocks and where did you purchase?
 
I got the front and rear icons both with remote reservoir and "CDCV", which is the tuneable valve where you can dial 10 levels of dampening. Got some stuff directly from ICON website, just to be sure I got the most recent version.

I am assuming ICON is just covering their butts, but the instructions say to send their shocks back every so often to get them tuned up and rebuilt as needed. I'm assuming no one actually does this and I would hope they don't actually need this much maintenance.

Any input from others on this issue would be interesting.
 
I got the front and rear icons both with remote reservoir and "CDCV", which is the tuneable valve where you can dial 10 levels of dampening. Got some stuff directly from ICON website, just to be sure I got the most recent version.

I am assuming ICON is just covering their butts, but the instructions say to send their shocks back every so often to get them tuned up and rebuilt as needed. I'm assuming no one actually does this and I would hope they don't actually need this much maintenance.

Any input from others on this issue would be interesting.

I'd say it depends on how hard you actually run the shocks. I've got about 50k (at least 20-30k of off road) on my rear 2.0 with reservoir Icons and I could tell the last 3 runs out that she's not floating like she used to. Pulling the rig apart tomorrow to start working on the suspension rebuild.
 
That's one thing that has worried me about Icon's, I've seen many people post about rebuilding within 20-30k miles... that seems kind of short for a monotube no?

I'd expect a shock to last about 100k.
 
That's one thing that has worried me about Icon's, I've seen many people post about rebuilding within 20-30k miles... that seems kind of short for a monotube no?

I'd expect a shock to last about 100k.

For a performance monotube that can be tuned (Icon/King/Fox/Radflo) from my experience I would expect them to last (without completely leaking) at least 60k miles in most cases. Is there some fade/decreased performance before that time? A little bit probably but I'm guessing recharging them with nitrogen would help with that.

My brother's Icon 2.0 and my 2.5's have lasted over 50k driving on 5 miles of washboarded dirt roads daily for half that mileage. We've been wheeling quite a bit the past couple of years as well and we still haven't had a leak.

A set of OMEs or Bilsteins I would guess should last longer but you don't get the same tuneability or travel in most cases.
 
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How about mixing shocks--say Bilstein 5100 or 6112 up front with the oem stock shocks rear. Has anyone run this setup?

I have the 6112 up front. Also got SPC Racing UCA's. Cannnot say enough good things about this combo. So smooth and it tracks like a racecar.

Initially, I had the 5100's in the rear with FJ cruiser springs, but felt they were too stiff. Got a set of Icon 2.0 w reservoirs off here. The Icons are better, and their customer service is amazing. They are still a little stiff initially, although I feel like they're breaking in. I may get them rebuilt with softer compression damping. That's one of the nice things about Icons is you can get them rebuilt and adjust the valving to your taste.
 
That's one thing that has worried me about Icon's, I've seen many people post about rebuilding within 20-30k miles... that seems kind of short for a monotube no?

I'd expect a shock to last about 100k.

I don't have any leaks and I have the remote reservoir in the rear, but I've had a lot of hard, fast, desert miles over the past 2 years. Including Race Track road in Death Valley which is 30 or 40 miles of the worst washboard you will ever have the pleasure of driving on.

For a performance monotube that can be tuned (Icon/King/Fox/Radflo) from my experience I would expect them to last (without completely leaking) at least 60k miles in most cases. Is there some fade/decreased performance before that time? A little bit probably but I'm guessing recharging them with nitrogen would help with that.

My brother's Icon 2.0 and my 2.5's have lasted over 50k driving on 5 miles of washboarded dirt roads daily for half that mileage. We've been wheeling quite a bit the past couple of years as well and we still haven't had a leak.

A set of OMEs or Bilsteins I would guess should last longer but you don't get the same tuneability or travel in most cases.

I don't necessarily think I NEED a rebuild, but with the miles I've put on and as many issues as I've had this last year with shit breaking I figured I'd start 2018 out right and make sure everything was refreshed. Hell, you're supposed to change bushings on your UCAs every 40-50k and I've got close to 60k on my Camburgs. They're also getting done while I'm at it though.
 
in that context they don't sound so bad... I had read that 5100's didn't have such great ride quality so thought a 6112 front / Icon 2.0 rear would be a good combo...
 
i have ranchos adjustables upfront and bilsteins 5100 at the rear, with 1.5'' spacer lift, i recently replaced my broken rear sway bar, and removed my drivers side rear shock for the install, i cud easily compress the shocks with my hand, i am thinking the shoks may be shot, anybody running bilsteins 5100 care to chime in on this? how is the hand compression test
 
[MENTION=122163]duffdog[/MENTION], nice, but a lil too rich for me.
truck has been with me for 7yrs & counting, trying to squeeze out 2 or 3 more years from it. guess i may settle for the ranchos
 
another vote for KYB, excel-g. priced fair & work great.

i used them to replace worn xreas shocks & they are very nice, not too stiff but still firm. rated to be just a tad above stock sr5 shocks.
 
Not really a fair comparison review but I am using the KYB Excel-G on a different car and while I think it’s a good OE style replacement on a budget, I don’t think it’s quite at the same level as the Bilstein.

That said, it was certainly better than the blown shocks I was running on, and certainly brings the car back to a stock-ish feel.
 
Not really a fair comparison review but I am using the KYB Excel-G on a different car and while I think it’s a good OE style replacement on a budget, I don’t think it’s quite at the same level as the Bilstein.

That said, it was certainly better than the blown shocks I was running on, and certainly brings the car back to a stock-ish feel.

of course a stock type replacement shock isn't at the same level as bilstein, but then again they aren't at the same price level either...
 
I consider the Bilstein an OE style replacement as well, if not the 5100, the 4600 which would be a better comparison.

I guess the point I was trying to make was while the KYB was sufficient to repair the car, it falls short in certain areas which makes me question the purchase. If I could have did it over again, I would have liked to try a better shock.
 
I consider the Bilstein an OE style replacement as well, if not the 5100, the 4600 which would be a better comparison.

I guess the point I was trying to make was while the KYB was sufficient to repair the car, it falls short in certain areas which makes me question the purchase. If I could have did it over again, I would have liked to try a better shock.

curious why/where you think it falls short vs an OEM shock?

bilstein is not an OE shock, its an upgrade from stock & much stiffer, at least the popular 5100 that every one uses or suggests on this thread when the OP said he got rid of them because they were too harsh for his driving conditions & just wants something a little stiffer than stock.

the KYB is designed with about 10% stiffer valving so its just what hes looking for. on the fronts, the kyb has the stiffer valving but also has a ~10% stiffer spring too, its the same part# for the FJ cruiser so its made to be like an OE shock, just a little stiffer.
 
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