Rear shock removal

[19963.4lsr5]

What is the trick to removing the rear shocks?

There is not a nut on top of the shock to keep it from spinning. And zero room to turn a wrench to brake the nut off. I'm about to get the saw zaw and try and cut the stem.

Why?

 

[kernel.panik]

I used a deep socket with a rachet wedged up against the frame so it wouldn't spin. Grab the dust shield (if it's a factory shock) and twist the dust shield to loosen the upper nut.

Otherwise a sawzall will work.

 

[aha2988]

if you can't turn it cut it

 

[chadsy]

I used a deep socket with a rachet wedged up against the frame so it wouldn't spin. Grab the dust shield (if it's a factory shock) and twist the dust shield to loosen the upper nut.

Otherwise a sawzall will work.

This right here. A little PB Blaster will also help the top nut come off.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Cut it. Takes 4 seconds.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks for the reply guys. I took the CJ for a drive and got the saw zaw from home. If I can't use that my brother has the torch. I'll just need to prep a little extra for the hot wrench.

 

[Socco]

When I changed mine, I was all set up for a big fight. Sawzall and torch, waiting in the wings. After I got a socket wrench on it, braced myself for a big pull....F'n thing snapped right off. The passenger side I didnt even bother with, removed the bottom from the axle and then just rocked the shock back and forth to break off the shaft. Took less than a minute I believe.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I unbolted the bottom of the shock and twisted it back and forth until it broke off. No need for tools. Works on old factory shocks

 

[Shibby!]

Wait till you have to put it on! =)

Deep socket works. Still a PITA but do-able. Remain patient.

I use a vise grip or pipe wrench on the FLANGE of the boot holder. DO NOT put this on the shaft itself or you'll damage the shaft and wreck the seals on the strut instantly. Hold the pipe wrench against the frame/spring with one hand, and turn the ratchet with the other. Not too bad once you get a system down. I did it 2-3 times and it got easier and easier. (The LC struts require spacers on top of the rubber grommet or they rattle and round out the shaft hole)

Good luck.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Done, now to fix the stripped lower sway bar mount bolt hole on the drivers side axil.

 

[shadow247]

I used a deep socket with a rachet wedged up against the frame so it wouldn't spin. Grab the dust shield (if it's a factory shock) and twist the dust shield to loosen the upper nut.

Otherwise a sawzall will work.

This is what I did. I had no problem getting mine out. Others have not been so successful and have had to cut their shocks out. IF you have any surface rust on the frame (my truck did not) then you will probably have to cut them out, especially if they are the original shocks. My truck had 341k on it when I purchased it, so I'm sure the original owner had put at least 1 set of shocks on by then.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

I just went through this tonight (drivers side) and here is what I have to offer:

Logic would tell you the way to get to the upper shock mount bolt is from under the truck. It ain't so.

In fact if you are like me you will go under there and after about 20 minutes start shaking your head and assuming that Toyota somehow mounted the shocks to the chassis and then lowered the body down over it completely concealing the upper mount.

Or, like me you might pull up the rear cargo carpet hoping and praying there is an access hole like many vehicles have. There ain't.

Now specifically I am talking the drivers side here, the passenger side is not as bad to access.

Here is the trick:

1) Jack the truck up by the axle and support the frame with jack stands.
2) Remove the lower mounting bolt
3) VERY SLOWLY lower the axle down about 3-4"
4) You can now reach in from the wheel well over the axle and past the spring mount to attach a 14mm deep well socket.
5) As some other guys stated above, you can now grab the upper shock tube with a channel lock and while holding the 14mm socket/wrench above undo the bolt.

I had no problem securing the new shock upper mount using the 14mm deep well socket and holding the new upper shock tube.

Beware the bowl where the upper mount sits will likely be caked with dirt and sand. I scraped it out with my finger and then stuck my air compressor blow out tool up there to completely blow all the crap out. There was a lot and I don't even off road much.

 

[nor_cal51501]

Ok, I know it's a HUGE pain in the ass, but you guys do know that the shocks have allen heads right? You put an allen in there to hold the shock in place and use a box wrench or ratcheting box wrench while holding the shaft in place with the allen. Mine is much easier because I have a 1" body lift, but it's still doable with the stock setup or aftermarket shocks.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

If you mean an Allen head receiver hole in the top shock mount, my original 2002 Toyota shocks do not. They have a sort of square top but I cannot imagine trying to get a box end on the bolt and then holding that square tip with something - there is just not enough room.

What I posted above was pretty successful for me. The deep well is the way to go IMO.

I have seen what you are talking about with struts before but not on these rear shocks.

 

[nor_cal51501]

If you mean an Allen head receiver hole in the top shock mount, my original 2002 Toyota shocks do not. They have a sort of square top but I cannot imagine trying to get a box end on the bolt and then holding that square tip with something - there is just not enough room.

What I posted above was pretty successful for me. The deep well is the way to go IMO.

I have seen what you are talking about with struts before but not on these rear shocks.

Lol yes, an "Allen head receiver hole"(why didn't I use the techinical term is lost on me).:doh::tongue1: I'm not sure about the 2002's but I just removed my factory tokikos on Friday and they had the "Allen head receiver hole" as did my last 2001 2wd, as did my new bilsteins that I installed to replace my factory shocks. I'm just stating this all from my experience, so I'm not 100% on if this is a standard for shocks, but it seems fairly logical that it would be.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Not sure quite how to take your post.

Why I said "Allen head receiving hole" is because I was not sure if you were referring to the square top of the bolt that some with less experience might say "it sort of looks like an Allen Wrench" or if you were saying there is a keyed hole in the top bolt that accepts an Allen wrench.

Regardless, the factory Toyota shocks on my 2002 did not have an Allen wrench keyed hole/receiving hole/receptacle/whatever we want to call it on the top.

But lets assume they did. After changing the drivers side rear shock tonight I am curious how you can even remotely get some kind of box end on the upper shock mounting nut, insert an Allen wrench into the top of it and hold and turn both? It was a stretch for me to get one hand in there and hold the socket wrench much less doing the magic you are talking about. ;-)

 

[nor_cal51501]

Not sure quite how to take your post.

Why I said "Allen head receiving hole" is because I was not sure if you were referring to the square top of the bolt that some with less experience might say "it sort of looks like an Allen Wrench" or if you were saying there is a keyed hole in the top bolt that accepts an Allen wrench.

Regardless, the factory Toyota shocks on my 2002 did not have an Allen wrench keyed hole/receiving hole/receptacle/whatever we want to call it on the top.

But lets assume they did. After changing the drivers side rear shock tonight I am curious how you can even remotely get some kind of box end on the upper shock mounting nut, insert an Allen wrench into the top of it and hold and turn both? It was a stretch for me to get one hand in there and hold the socket wrench much less doing the magic you are talking about. ;-)

I was just giving you shit for the correction, not being a dick. I completely agree that these are the worst setup I've ever seen. I was able to do it because I have a 1" BL so I have a bit more room. But when I did it on my 2wd I was still able to get in there(was a MASSIVE BI*CH) and it required acrobatic skills and maneuvering my joints in ways I think the human body wasn't made to contort into. All this being said, I think for people without BL's the simplest solution to removing these difficult to remove and I'll designed shocks(with little risk of damaging the mount) is to use a strap wrench on the shock body(assuming the stock shocks are being removed--they don't spin separately from the shock shaft) and using a adjustable ratcheting closed end wrench. It's still nearly impossible, but it's better than bending it till it snaps and possibly ovaling out your upper mount.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

I was just giving you shit for the correction, not being a dick. I completely agree that these are the worst setup I've ever seen. I was able to do it because I have a 1" BL so I have a bit more room. But when I did it on my 2wd I was still able to get in there(was a MASSIVE BI*CH)....

No worries man - thats what I figured.

I agree it is poorly designed (the drivers side for sure).

I also agree that I don't like the "bend it back and forth till it breaks approach".

Your strap wrench idea would definitely work on the upper shock body. I was replacing my shocks (don't care about the old ones) so once I got that 14mm deep socket on the upper nut, I just put a channel lock on the upper tube and it came off in short order.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I used a sawzaw in the end. Took literally seconds per shock.

 

[nor_cal51501]

I used a sawzaw in the end. Took literally seconds per shock.

Yes, but then you need to clean up the mess an exploding gas shock leaves. Plus you still need to get the upper nut off.