Rear Shocks and Springs Install - Help Required

D

DAWG NATION

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Hi

So i eventually managed to get the new springs and Daystar spacers in but now the KYB shocks are to short.
I can jack up the axel, compressing the spring and then the shocks will fit but i don't know if thats a good idea?

What should i do...
Take off the Daystar Spacers?
Or
Compress the spring so that the shocks will fit?

Thanks in advance...
 
Last edited:
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Not 100% sure on this, but you could have the wrong springs. Those springs are only listed to work on 96-00 4runners, and then change to the 81043 for 01-02 4runners. I'm sure if that's the issue, but it's worth looking into since you have an 01.

Mike
 
Thanks for the input Mike...
Let me clarify.
The Springs are fine and the shocks fit IF I remove the 1.5 inch spacer.
With the spacer on the spring the shock is not long enough.

I can make the shock fit by jacking the axel up which compresses the spring...
My question is, is it ok to make the shock fit by compressing the spring.

Thanks
Theo
 
Those Moog springs have the dimensions of the '99 Limited springs, which give about 1" of extra height over any other stock spring. Combine that with 1.5" spacers and your in the neighborhood of a 2.5" lift, which is what's stretching the shock to it's limit. Is the brake flex line being stretched tight as well?

If you compress the spring to get the shocks on, your going to kill the shocks quickly because they will be constantly being extended to their max length. They're basically becoming a limiting strap for the suspension.

You'll need longer shocks to keep the spacers installed if you want a properly functioning rear suspension.

It looks like you have 2 options.

(1) ditch the silly spacers and let the suspension function properly
(2) get rear shocks that are designed to work with a 2-3" lift

For what it's worth, I used the same moog springs on my 'runner, mainly at the time as a cheap way to hold me over until I'd get a OME suspension. I'm at 1 1/2 years with the springs and they still work fine and they have not sagged. I'm not getting rid of them now!
 
It’s all relative....

It’s expected that your springs will have some preload when the shocks are fully extended. Otherwise the springs may fall out when you fully extend the suspension.

The nuance is “how much preload”.

Given that your running OEM spec coils and OEM spec shocks + a 1.5 inch spacer, Id expect your preload to be 1.5 inches more than factory spec.

Everyone who’s ever installed such spacers as a lift option would experience the same preload scenario.
 
Dieselchessy said:
It’s all relative....

It’s expected that your springs will have some preload when the shocks are fully extended. Otherwise the springs may fall out when you fully extend the suspension.

The nuance is “how much preload”.

Given that your running OEM spec coils and OEM spec shocks + a 1.5 inch spacer, Id expect your preload to be 1.5 inches more than factory spec.

Everyone who’s ever installed such spacers as a lift option would experience the same preload scenario.
Click to expand...

Agreed
 
Thanks for all the advice...
Last nite I was contemplating getting longer shocks to keep the extra height but judging by the replies it's a bad idea.

So I'm going to take off the spacer's and live with the lower ride...
 
DAWG NATION said:
Thanks for all the advice...
Last nite I was contemplating getting longer shocks to keep the extra height but judging by the replies it's a bad idea.

So I'm going to take off the spacer's and live with the lower ride...
Click to expand...

Good choice.

I personal wouldn't listen to the ones that are telling you it's fine. The idea behind getting an OEM length shock it to match it with the OEM length spring. While you do have an OEM length spring you don't have the corresponding length shock for the taller spring. It would be fine IF you have the tall shocks to match the tall springs. But, essentially your shocks are at minimum an inch short.

Mike
 
DAWG NATION said:
Thanks for all the advice...
Last nite I was contemplating getting longer shocks to keep the extra height but judging by the replies it's a bad idea.

So I'm going to take off the spacer's and live with the lower ride...
Click to expand...

To me, “keep the extra height” is an odd statement, as well as your comments in the OP about jacking up the axle.

The shocks wouldn’t allow “extra height” unless they were so short they held the springs compressed more than the static ride height.
I can’t imagine that’s the case.

It sounds to me like you have the frame on stands and the axle hanging.

But you probably took it apart.... Did you not then have to remove the shocks to allow the axle to drop down low enough to remove the stock coils?
In that scenario you still would need to compress the springs to install the shocks.

Whatever you choose, when your done you need to set the rig on the ground before tightening the bolts for the upper and lower track bars. Hopefully you loosened the bolts prior to letting the axle hang with no shocks.

And hopefully your not stretching your brake line(s) and brake cable too bad.
 
You should have to jack up the axle at least a little bit to get the shocks on in the rear... A 1.5-2.5" lift in the rear is not too much for stock length shocks to handle.

While you are at it, loosen all of the pivot bolts for the links (10 places) and re-tighten once you are back on the ground at ride height. It makes getting the springs/suspension assembly easier to put together and keep the bushings 'relaxed' at the new ride height.

-Charlie
 
Sorry to hi jack this thread but.... what if you don’t change the spring and put a 1.5 to 2” spacer will it be ok for the original rear shock? Or gotta go longer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I'm finally done with this project:cheers:

Thanks to this forum and Youtube I managed to get it done without major problems.
I did end up breaking a wheel stud so I now know how to replace those to.

Probably the worst part was removing the upper nuts on the shocks, and then I broke a wheel stud replacing the tires. At least now I've done it and gained more experience.

At the end of the day Bertha gained 2.5 inches at the back and the ride feels much better.

Now on to the front suspension...YAY...

Thanks Theo
 
Dieselchessy said:
People install 1-2” lifts, coils or spacers, all the time with stock length shocks.
It’s as ok as lifting a rig ever is.
Click to expand...

How does this statement take into consideration the low height of the 2001-2002 4Runners? For example, if I put on a 1999 coil + 1.5" spacer on my 2002 truck I would arrive at +/- 2.5" lift over where my 2002 started, but only 1.5" over where the 99 started. Would the stock length shock be OK in this situation? Is the general statement of 0"-2" of lift OK with stock shocks apply to the tall 1999 springs or not?

Reason I bring this up is that I was looking at lengths on RockAuto today and noticed that the KYB KG54317 is listed as a collapsed length of 12.95" and an extended of 20.12". The Bilstein 24-249966 (Their 2" lifted rear) is listed as a collapsed length of 12.91" and an extended of 20.79".

If the Bilstein really only offers an additional .7" of droop over the KYB KG54317, then the KYB is a nice option for those only looking to adding 1"-1.5" of lift, such as adding a '99 tall spring to a 2000-2002 4Runner. Or even adding a 10-20mm trim packer and '99 tall spring to a 2000-2002 4Runner. The Bilsteins are considerably more expensive than the KYB.
 
NJ-4Runner said:
How does this statement take into consideration the low height of the 2001-2002 4Runners?
Click to expand...
All "lift" numbers are based on ~20" wheel hub center to fender lip measurement. No matter the year of 3rd gen 4Runner, the rest of the suspension geometry doesn't change - mainly the bump stops (well, ignoring some early rear suspension stuff). Droop is limited by shocks, both front and rear.

Shocks designed for lift or stock height has more to do with the internal design - the damping characteristics can and do change depending on the position in the travel of the shock in many cases.

-Charlie
 
On my 1999, I am running 99 Talls with a 1.5 Daystar Spacer. I am running Rear Shocks meant for a 1994 Land Cruiser 80 Series. It works just fine for my needs. I have a set of Airlift bags installed as well to help with any loading issues. The 99 springs are very soft and sag a lot with my dirtbike/carrier on the back, but ride great when unloaded. About 40lbs in the Airbags levels it right out and I don't even notice all the weight hanging off the back. They came in handy when I dismantled my 680 pound motorcycle and put it in the back for a cross country move from VA to Texas.

I was running Tundra front Springs and 7 Wrap's on the rear, and it was way too tall and harsh for regular driving. I had the adjustable panhard bar, and that did center the axle, but it did not help the row boat feeling when turning and going over uneven surfaces.
 
shadow247 said:
On my 1999, I am running 99 Talls with a 1.5 Daystar Spacer. I am running Rear Shocks meant for a 1994 Land Cruiser 80 Series. It works just fine for my needs. I have a set of Airlift bags installed as well to help with any loading issues. The 99 springs are very soft and sag a lot with my dirtbike/carrier on the back, but ride great when unloaded. About 40lbs in the Airbags levels it right out and I don't even notice all the weight hanging off the back. They came in handy when I dismantled my 680 pound motorcycle and put it in the back for a cross country move from VA to Texas.

I was running Tundra front Springs and 7 Wrap's on the rear, and it was way too tall and harsh for regular driving. I had the adjustable panhard bar, and that did center the axle, but it did not help the row boat feeling when turning and going over uneven surfaces.
Click to expand...

I was considering going with that exact setup! Do you get your truck fully crossed up and fully stuff a rear tire? The Land cruiser shocks have a 22.87" extended length and I was concerned that they would allow a rear spring to pop out of the perch.
 
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