Rear suspension bushings-Daily Driver

My originals on my 98 looked alot worse thrn those. Good call though as those bushings are gone.

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My originals on my 98 looked alot worse thrn those. Good call though as those bushings are gone.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
Holy cow, can’t imagine worse than what I took out but given the crap they throw on our roads in the winter I can only imagine what your looked like.
Can’t wait to do the upper arms and panhard.
 
2nd verse, same as the first....

Panhard was the easiest of them all. I had issues with the rear control arms and getting the axle to line up nicely, so plan on using a comealong or heavy duty ratchet strap, probably a jack or two and maybe a prybar to help get everything lined back up again.

And wow, that's crusty... glad I bought a TN truck and live in GA
I used a ratchet strap as the rear axle definitely shifted on me as well once I removed the lower arm.
Removing the old crusty bushing was a bit of a battle that took most of the time.
Once I finish up the rear I’ll probably move onto the front upper & lower control arm bushings which I know isn’t a fun job.
 
Finished replacing the rear lower control arm bushings.
What an improvement as the originals were toast.
Next up, upper arms and panhard.
Any install tips?

Do the upper control arms one side at a time to minimize axle shift. If it does shift some ratchet straps are very helpful to get it to line back up. Do the panhard bar with the tires on the ground.
 
Do the upper control arms one side at a time to minimize axle shift. If it does shift some ratchet straps are very helpful to get it to line back up. Do the panhard bar with the tires on the ground.
Ahhh, exactly what I was looking for regarding the panhard bushing replacement.
I figured best to do the upper arm bushings same way as the lowers, up in the air with no load on rear suspension but wasn’t sure if that applied to the panhard.
Thanks for the heads up on that, very helpful.
 
2nd on do the control arms one at at time. :) That's how I do them abd making the job alot easier.

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Ahhh, exactly what I was looking for regarding the panhard bushing replacement.
I figured best to do the upper arm bushings same way as the lowers, up in the air with no load on rear suspension but wasn’t sure if that applied to the panhard.
Thanks for the heads up on that, very helpful.
You're welcome. I forgot to add that if the panhard doesn't line back up for reinstall if you jack up on the frame on the passenger side (or preferably a tow hitch if equipped) it will move the two mounting points further away. If you need them closer together you can try adding weight to the cargo area or using a ratchet strap between the passenger side of the axle and the passenger side frame above it (essentially you are trying to compress the right rear suspension).
 
Fortunately I have a 4 post lift and a hoist stand available for this suspension work, makes this type of work much more pleasant.
When I replaced the lower arm bushings I supported 3rd member with the hoist stand.
Once supported I replaced the bushings in each arm one at a time. Still needed the ratchet strap as the rear diff shifted ever so slightly.
Thinking once up in the air I’ll use the hoist stand to stabilize the panhard and try and maintain it’s original position hoping reinstall goes easy and all lines up.
 

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Does the Panhard bar bushings have a metal sleeve like the upper control arms or is it just a rubber bushing like the lower?
 
Does the Panhard bar bushings have a metal sleeve like the upper control arms or is it just a rubber bushing like the lower?

The panhard is like the rear upper control arms where you need to cut around the edge of the bushing to press it out. The rear lowers are different being a press fit metal sleeve.
 
Ahhh, exactly what I was looking for regarding the panhard bushing replacement.
I figured best to do the upper arm bushings same way as the lowers, up in the air with no load on rear suspension but wasn’t sure if that applied to the panhard.
Thanks for the heads up on that, very helpful.
Just make sure you re-tighten everything on the ground if you go with rubber bushings. You want to have all the bushings in their static positions (unloaded) at right height. Poly bushings can be tightened whenever, since they have sleeves that rotate in the bushing.

-Charlie
 
Replaced all bushings on lower arms, panhard, and passenger side upper control arm.
The last bolt on the driver side upper control arm is giving me a fight.
Expected an issue as they (front & rear bolts on this arm) were tough to remove.
Rear frame rails supported by stands and wheels suspended, no load.
Have ratchet strap pulling driver side of rear axle assembly forward and 3rd member supported by stand.
Tried just about everything to get this bolt to line up, raised & lowered 3rd member, released & tightened ratchet strap. Even tried a “C” clamp to pull the arm back against the bracket …..no luck.
Suggestions welcome and appreciated.
 

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The last bolt on the driver side upper control arm is giving me a fight.

Pretty sure that's the one that gave me the biggest fight too. As I recall, I left it loose till I removed the shock (was replacing those also) and that made it very easy... so try popping the shock loose of the bottom mount.
 
Pretty sure that's the one that gave me the biggest fight too. As I recall, I left it loose till I removed the shock (was replacing those also) and that made it very easy... so try popping the shock loose of the bottom mount.
Worth a shot as pretty much out of ideas.
 
You probably want to have all the other bolts loose back there while you are doing that. You may also have to remove the springs to cycle suspension height to get it to line up.

-Charlie
I haven’t tightened the forward positioned bolt on the upper arm in question and have yet to torque the passenger side upper arm either.
All the other bolts as in the lower control arms on both sides?
 
I haven’t tightened the forward positioned bolt on the upper arm in question and have yet to torque the passenger side upper arm either.
All the other bolts as in the lower control arms on both sides?
It is often false economy to try to leave too many things bolted up and in place... At this point, it is worth a try to loosen up the bottom arm bolts.

-Charlie
 
All buttoned up.
What finally did it was partially and slowly loading up the rear suspension and raising the rear diff assembly.
Loosened the panhard as well.
Allowed enough wiggle room for the remaining bolt to slide into place.
Thanks to all for the help.
Last thought…….is it necessary to get a wheel alignment after replacing all the rear bushings?
 
All buttoned up.
What finally did it was partially and slowly loading up the rear suspension and raising the rear diff assembly.
Loosened the panhard as well.
Allowed enough wiggle room for the remaining bolt to slide into place.
Thanks to all for the help.
Last thought…….is it necessary to get a wheel alignment after replacing all the rear bushings?

This was my method as well. I pulled the panhard bolt and cycled the suspension a few times and it worked out.

I would not say a rear alignment is required, but its a good idea to get one every 6 months or a year depending on how hard you drive.

Edit to add - There is nothing to adjust in the rear, so if it's off, you have a bent arm or axle...
 
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All buttoned up.
What finally did it was partially and slowly loading up the rear suspension and raising the rear diff assembly.
Loosened the panhard as well.
Allowed enough wiggle room for the remaining bolt to slide into place.
Thanks to all for the help.
Last thought…….is it necessary to get a wheel alignment after replacing all the rear bushings?
Like Shadow said there isn't any adjustment in the rear suspension for alignment (unless you have adjustable upper/lower control arms).
 

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