redrunner12af
New member
this is my first post---
although I didn't like going thru the initiation of registering, I felt that this repair might be good for someone wishing a cheaper way of repairing the rear window switch. the only place I could find a new switch was from the dealer @$107-- ouch!! so then I lucked out on with this idea :wow:
parts list:
1 -- switches, momentary, one red one black, one #275- 0609 Radio Shack (2 switches / bag) approx. $3.75
2 -- wooden paint mixing paddle - free at any hardware or paint store.
3 -- shrink tubing ( to go over switch leads) Radio Shack.
4 -- epoxy glue
5 -- electronic grade solder RS
6 -- wood stain
procedure:
1 -- pry up the broken switch using a knife. disconnect the switch connector !!! important!!! SECURE THE REMAINING WIRE SO IT DOESN'T FALL DOWN IN THE BLACK HOLE . at this point, you will might want to disassemble the switch to see if it can be repaired -- burned contacts might be cleaned up -- anyway, remove the light first so the switch can more easily be disassembled
2 -- turn the switch upside down and outline w/ pencil, the dimensions of the case onto the end of the paint paddle -- don't cut the paddle at this time -- determine the centering points for the two new switches -- now drill out the holes ( I think it was 7/16 ) with a wood bit. hint: drill a little bit on one side and flip it over to complete the hole - this will help reduce breakout of the wood. now fit the switches to make sure they fit. don't attach them yet! now cut the wood to length and fit to the hole - you will want to use a plane to cut down the long edges . take a cue tip and some stain and stain the wood - set aside to dry.
3 -- take the nuts and washers off the switches
4 -- reattach the disassembled switch to the harness - turn on the ignition and determine which wires do what by using a jumper wire between the different contacts outside the open switch housing - mine was: green & red/yellow for up ---- green/yellow & red/blue for down (the middle blue wire seemed to do nothing)
5 -- remove the switch harness from the connector and take it to the work bench -- now cut the wires close to the broken switch and strip a little insulation from the old wire harness --- slip the nuts, lock washers, and shrink tubing onto the harness -- slip the wires through the wooden mounting piece - determine that everything is correct !! (I forgot to take the nuts and washers off and had to re-solder everything again) slip on the shrink tube and push the shrink tube up out of the way so it doesn't accidentally tighten up when the heat hits the solder- once you have soldered the connections, take it out and test it - if it works, then slide the shrink tubing up to cover the terminals and apply heat.
6 -- if it worked, cool some beer !!!!!!!!
7 -- in my case, the wiring pushed the wood mount up so I had to add a dab of epoxy to the edges -- I wouldn't clean the surfaces as you might want to lift it out later - ie: you just want a little glue action
ps: when I had to de-solder , I was pulling on the new switch and it came apart -- I noticed that the connections didn't have any conductive grease on them --I forgot to do that and went ahead and epoxied the end back on - you might want to pull the ends off and grease the contacts - go now - the beer is cold
although I didn't like going thru the initiation of registering, I felt that this repair might be good for someone wishing a cheaper way of repairing the rear window switch. the only place I could find a new switch was from the dealer @$107-- ouch!! so then I lucked out on with this idea :wow:
parts list:
1 -- switches, momentary, one red one black, one #275- 0609 Radio Shack (2 switches / bag) approx. $3.75
2 -- wooden paint mixing paddle - free at any hardware or paint store.
3 -- shrink tubing ( to go over switch leads) Radio Shack.
4 -- epoxy glue
5 -- electronic grade solder RS
6 -- wood stain
procedure:
1 -- pry up the broken switch using a knife. disconnect the switch connector !!! important!!! SECURE THE REMAINING WIRE SO IT DOESN'T FALL DOWN IN THE BLACK HOLE . at this point, you will might want to disassemble the switch to see if it can be repaired -- burned contacts might be cleaned up -- anyway, remove the light first so the switch can more easily be disassembled
2 -- turn the switch upside down and outline w/ pencil, the dimensions of the case onto the end of the paint paddle -- don't cut the paddle at this time -- determine the centering points for the two new switches -- now drill out the holes ( I think it was 7/16 ) with a wood bit. hint: drill a little bit on one side and flip it over to complete the hole - this will help reduce breakout of the wood. now fit the switches to make sure they fit. don't attach them yet! now cut the wood to length and fit to the hole - you will want to use a plane to cut down the long edges . take a cue tip and some stain and stain the wood - set aside to dry.
3 -- take the nuts and washers off the switches
4 -- reattach the disassembled switch to the harness - turn on the ignition and determine which wires do what by using a jumper wire between the different contacts outside the open switch housing - mine was: green & red/yellow for up ---- green/yellow & red/blue for down (the middle blue wire seemed to do nothing)
5 -- remove the switch harness from the connector and take it to the work bench -- now cut the wires close to the broken switch and strip a little insulation from the old wire harness --- slip the nuts, lock washers, and shrink tubing onto the harness -- slip the wires through the wooden mounting piece - determine that everything is correct !! (I forgot to take the nuts and washers off and had to re-solder everything again) slip on the shrink tube and push the shrink tube up out of the way so it doesn't accidentally tighten up when the heat hits the solder- once you have soldered the connections, take it out and test it - if it works, then slide the shrink tubing up to cover the terminals and apply heat.
6 -- if it worked, cool some beer !!!!!!!!
7 -- in my case, the wiring pushed the wood mount up so I had to add a dab of epoxy to the edges -- I wouldn't clean the surfaces as you might want to lift it out later - ie: you just want a little glue action
ps: when I had to de-solder , I was pulling on the new switch and it came apart -- I noticed that the connections didn't have any conductive grease on them --I forgot to do that and went ahead and epoxied the end back on - you might want to pull the ends off and grease the contacts - go now - the beer is cold
