rear window trouble

[natedogg11c]

yes I've searched the forum for about the past year of owning my 97 4runner for this topic and haven't found another set of symptoms like mine. yes ive made sure the wiper is docked correctly and the window lock button isnt pressed

so what i am experiencing:
hatch window will not roll up or down by key or switch
rear windshield wiper will not work but the spray does.
rear defrost does work
rear hatch unlocks with key and by switch
when i try the rear window switch i can hear the rear ecu (blue box) clicking
there is a constant ~.36 amp draw on the battery when rear ecu is hooked up (will drain my battery to flat dead in 4 days)

i replaced the hatch wiring harness that goes from body to hatch because it went down one day and wouldn't go back up.
i tried a different 97 rear ecu and when i did that everything worked perfectly once and i had no battery draw. after i shut it all up and let it sit thinking it was fixed the next time i tried it the rear window motor was so weak that i had to help it go back up and the windshield wiper no longer worked along with my amp draw being back. ive repeated this same set of symptoms multiple times to be sure it wasnt just that ecu

i dont believe either motor is bad because they do work perfectly the first time i just dont know what else to try.

 

[brillo_76]

The 360ma draw is only when the hatch control unit is plugged in and as soon as you unplug it its gone.


Any shorts in your back key mechanism? As the early years 96 97 are known to get too much water in the hatch .

Any too much current draw in the lock actuator for the hatch lock?



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[natedogg11c]

yes the 360 ma draw is only when the rear ecu is plugged in. if the rear ecu is unplugged i can still lock and unlock my rear hatch with the door buttons as far as i know. which would eliminate the lock actuator. i haven't found any evidence of water inside the hatch. ill open it up and see if the wires going to the lock cylinder can be easily removed to test if that is where the draw is.

 

[brillo_76]

I believe the water will drain out but I read somewhere that something was redesigned to reduce the water in the hatch.

Check the wiper motor and window motor for resistance. Motors should be extremely low.

Can you unplug everything off the ECU and still have that current draw. On another thread I showed the wiring diagrams for that area. So you can use those to verify all is good.

Mostly it's broken wires at the flex boot that causes issues. I saw you replaced that section of harness. I figured you probably inspected that section of the new harness very well before installing. As if insulation is cracked on those wires that section of wire is done.

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