Rear window won't roll down

Update: so the motor worked fine when jumped with a 12v supply so I am thinking the "back door ECU" as I discovered its called. Will try to source a good used one then have a play with the old one. Anyone know the part# it might help get me a lead on one locally?
 
Well, here's a question that may help me as well as some others. I've searched the site and Google and can't find anything as useful as I'd like. I have a 97 that I purchased recently. The previous owner said that the rear window hasn't worked since he got the vehicle and he never looked into it. So while I'm waiting for the lift kit to come in I figured I'd pull the rear hatch panel and have a look. Everything looks good except for a broken wire on the wire harness that clips to the lock mechanism. See the attached photo.

While going through the process I removed it and tried the rear window with the hatch up. It works. Goes up and down no problem. Turn on the wipers and the wiper doesn't work with the hatch up. Close the hatch and the operations are reversed. The wiper works again but the window will not engage. So I've narrowed it down to a wiring issue. Does anyone have a useful tailgate wiring diagram for these vehicles? Current thoughts are to replace the wire clip that goes to the lock and see if that fixes it. Second thought is to eliminate the sensor that let's the truck know if the tailgate is in the up or down position. There's not a lot left to try and re-solder that original harness but I'll try.

Thanks for any and all help. Forum nazi's hit me with all the "try search" comments you want but I've tried and no one else is reporting these symptoms that I've been able to find.


EDIT: Actually, forum nazi's fire away with all guns blazing. I decided to look a little closer at the wires that go through the loom. After pulling the factory tape off I spotted a broken connection way down there. With the lid up it pushed the wire together so it could send voltage to the motor. With the lid down it created enough space to stop the volts from getting home. So, with the help of two pairs of needle nose and the skills I learned from playing the game Operation as a kid I was able to skin it and get a crimp connector on it. Now every thing is working as it's supposed to. Locks=check. Wipers=check. Window=check.
 

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I have a similar issue but my is tied in with my fob when my fob doesnt work my window doesnt work. Now when my fob is working its very strong as if it had a new battery its not weak or dieing (like my other one). so riddle me that one.

I try and open the window using the switch......nope ..... **** me right.... anyways still looking for some kind of a hint from anyone willing to help. i'll try the wiring harness and see.
 
I'm having an issue where it seems one of the cables is binding. The window, with some assistance, will roll almost all the way up, and only a little more than half way down. I dug around in the door and nothing is in the way and the tracks are clear. When I roll the window down, one cable gets extremely taut and then stops progress. The other cable stays somewhat loose.
Anybody else ever run into this? I'm thinking of opening everything up again to lube the cables but I'm not sure that'll do very much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Rear window

So when I roll the rear window down it goes an inch or two then stops. If I go behind the truck and use the key to roll it down it does the same thing, but when I turn the key and pull on the rear wiper housing towards me it goes down smoothly like it is supposed to. Any idea what it could be catching on? This happen to anyone else
I haven't ripped open the back hatch yet jw if anyone has had and fixed the problem before I get into it
 
just bought my 4runner a couple weeks ago. all the windows work but kind of slow rolling up. the rear window scares me everytime i put it down, just always thinks its not going to go back up. but it does, little slow though. anyone know what i can do to make the windows go up and down with a little confidence? any preventive maintenance suggestions?
 
Believe it or not, we get threads all the time like this.

Go press your window lock button.

Unfreakinbelievable...this solved the problem for me. Thank you.
How I owned this truck for 14 years without learning this I will never
know. The button I've never intentionally pressed. :wow:
 
rear wiper too low

Hi guys,
I'm just adding my comment here as a possible solution for people that have the same problem as us.

Some time ago my back window decided to not go down anymore...
So obviously I came here for solutions and started with the simple stuff. Window lock, rear wiper off, rear hatch key switch etc... nothing...

Anyway I tried to do it with the hatch opened, moving the cables sleeve around etc...

And then I tried to move the rear wiper to make sure it was well into its cradle, while holding the key turned left in the keyhole of the hatch, and boom the window started moving !!

So when my wiper is fully into its cradle it doesn't work, but when I lift it a little bit and leave it there then the window works.

here you go, hopefully this will help someone figure their version of this problem out.

thanks for all the posts above that helped me narrow down the possibilities ! :clap2:
 
Rear Window quit working after evaporator coil was replaced

I have the same problem that my rear window does not go down when I press the button on my key. So I went into the car and tried the button on the dash and it worked fine. I went to close the window by putting the key in the lock and nothing happened. Had to go back into the car and use the button on the dash. So did the repair place wire the dash back wrong when they were done with replacing the ac evaporator coil?
 
I'm with Gerdo. Same problem on my 96. Same solution. I'd add to what Gerdo said, though. Don't splice the wires where they are already broken. Cut back a ways and splice in a length of wire. I spliced mine inside the vehicle, under the headliner, and inside the lift gate. This way I don't have a relatively weak splice in a location that is an obvious stress point.
 
Had the same issue and after reading thru the thread and trying some stuff mine ended up being resolved after simply cycling the barrel switch for the rear window wiper...sounds so bazaar but I’ll take it!
 
I'm having an issue where it seems one of the cables is binding. The window, with some assistance, will roll almost all the way up, and only a little more than half way down. I dug around in the door and nothing is in the way and the tracks are clear. When I roll the window down, one cable gets extremely taut and then stops progress. The other cable stays somewhat loose.
Anybody else ever run into this? I'm thinking of opening everything up again to lube the cables but I'm not sure that'll do very much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever get this figured out? I am having the exact same symptoms?
 
Well, here's a question that may help me as well as some others. I've searched the site and Google and can't find anything as useful as I'd like. I have a 97 that I purchased recently. The previous owner said that the rear window hasn't worked since he got the vehicle and he never looked into it. So while I'm waiting for the lift kit to come in I figured I'd pull the rear hatch panel and have a look. Everything looks good except for a broken wire on the wire harness that clips to the lock mechanism. See the attached photo.

While going through the process I removed it and tried the rear window with the hatch up. It works. Goes up and down no problem. Turn on the wipers and the wiper doesn't work with the hatch up. Close the hatch and the operations are reversed. The wiper works again but the window will not engage. So I've narrowed it down to a wiring issue. Does anyone have a useful tailgate wiring diagram for these vehicles? Current thoughts are to replace the wire clip that goes to the lock and see if that fixes it. Second thought is to eliminate the sensor that let's the truck know if the tailgate is in the up or down position. There's not a lot left to try and re-solder that original harness but I'll try.

Thanks for any and all help. Forum nazi's hit me with all the "try search" comments you want but I've tried and no one else is reporting these symptoms that I've been able to find.


EDIT: Actually, forum nazi's fire away with all guns blazing. I decided to look a little closer at the wires that go through the loom. After pulling the factory tape off I spotted a broken connection way down there. With the lid up it pushed the wire together so it could send voltage to the motor. With the lid down it created enough space to stop the volts from getting home. So, with the help of two pairs of needle nose and the skills I learned from playing the game Operation as a kid I was able to skin it and get a crimp connector on it. Now every thing is working as it's supposed to. Locks=check. Wipers=check. Window=check.

I read this message, went out move the black rubber covering the wires and discovered I had the big blue wire broken in half and two others on thier way. I spliced them and all is good! Thanks!!!!
 
I read this message, went out move the black rubber covering the wires and discovered I had the big blue wire broken in half and two others on thier way. I spliced them and all is good! Thanks!!!!

BUMP!!!

I just looked under my rubber housing this morning after reading your reply here and my white/black wire is split, blue wire on the way. Thanks for this!
 
Just gonna chime in on this topic cause I just replaced the motor on my rear tailgate (97 3rd gen)

There is a position sensor on the rear wiper motor that prevents the rear glass from going down. It does not prevent the rear glass from going up, only down.

My rear wiper arm broke off 10 years ago and I have been wanting to remove the motor and plug the hole for the wiper. So when I went to do that today while I was replacing the rear tailgate window motor, I found that I was not able to roll the window down. Shorting the 3 wires on the sensor fixes this.

Hope this helps someone someday.
 
We just had a huge rain storm with multiple inches of rain. The window worked last week, tried it today after the rain, didn’t work. Hoping this is the case! You’re giving me hope
 
I think tim just did a video on this.
or maybe it was the tailgate lock and replacing the glass
if not his, I know that there are several videos on you tube about window not going down in 3rd gen
 

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