Rear wiper almost not touching the window

Just did this fix and it worked like a charm. No need to remove the spring. All you need is a small saw, a 10mm socket and a small screwdriver. I used the screwdriver just to finish popping the tabs off as I couldn't quite cut all the way through.
If your wiper arm comes off easily this takes very little time. Remove 1/8" to no more than 3/16" off of the stops. I took a few pictures. Click on the link below to see photos.

Photobucket
 
Just adding on. I had the same problem on my 2004. The wiper was barely touching the glass. It used to work fine. Replacing the rubber insert did not help.

But after taking off the cover (that covers the nut that holds the entire wiper on) I noticed that the blade arm had split on one side of the attachment point over the motor spline. So the wiper still moved back and forth, but did not have the right angle anymore.

I am just adding that the metal grommet inside the plastic arm that slides on the motor spline was totally rusted on. The plastic arm just fell apart and all I was left with was the motor spline with the metal grommet fused on it. PBlaster did not loosen it and I did not want to torque it too hard with pliers.

But the earlier references to a puller helped. I ended up going to Autozone as they will lend out tools for free as long as you return them. I picked up a three arm puller. With some work, it popped off the rusted grommet. With some cleaning solution and a small wire brush I cleaned off the spline and it looks good to go while I wait for the replacement. I did put a light coat of oil on after cleaning so the spline remains rust free while I wait for the replacement. Here are some basic photos.

IMG_0466.JPG
Here is the cleaned off motor spline. Note that the spline part is tapered. The threaded part is where the nut goes to hold on the wiper.

IMG_0467.JPG
The puller may have a point on tip the bolt you tighten, but it was easier to put the wiper arm nut back on a few turns and rest puller bolt in the natural cup this creates. Note that the nut is not tightened down right to the spline. This leaves a bit of room for the wiper grommet to pop off. But make sure to tighten the bolt enough so there are a few threads for support. You just want a small space for the grommet to pop off the spline. That's all you need as the spline is tapered. Once it pops you can easily remove it by hand.

IMG_0468.JPG
Here is the actual metal grommet that was embedded in the plastic arm. Yes, it is a bit chewed up as I gently tried using wrenches to remove it. It rests on the tapered spline in the front of the tapered spline right next to the threads. It does not go all the way back. But note how small it is. The puller worked well, but I had to rotate it a few times to get the best grip behind this grommet.

Lastly, a few more comments for those in this situation.

  • Hold the three arms of the puller with your dominant hand. You may need the strength to keep the arms on and behind the grommet.
  • Slowly turn the puller bolt with your wrench. Going too fast just makes the arms pop off
  • You may need to turn the puller at times to find the best edge for gripping. My truck is 11 years old so the metal grommet was pretty bad.

Keep in mind that in my situation the washer arm was already broken so I just busted it off to expose the metal grommet. If you are trying to save the arm you may have a lot of difficulty if it is rusted on. In the end you may just decide to get a new arm. I found an OEM replacement on Ebay for 34 bucks delivered. It shows up this week and I will pop it right on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0466.JPG
    IMG_0466.JPG
    27 KB · Views: 1,653
  • IMG_0467.JPG
    IMG_0467.JPG
    26.4 KB · Views: 1,619
  • IMG_0468.JPG
    IMG_0468.JPG
    17.3 KB · Views: 1,592
Last edited:
If you're me and it's last night you first try pulling it off, then you get a puller which does nothing other than start to damage the threads. Then you get out the channel locks and break the plastic part off of the aluminum center part that mounts on the motor shaft. After that you get out the dremel and make a cut in the top and bottom of the center metal piece. But not until you make a hole in a piece of cardboard and put it over the shaft so you don't scratch the paint. Then break the piece by twisting a screwdriver in the slots you cut in the metal center piece. Don't forget the swearing as well.

We apparently went to the same mechanics school. Fix it till its broke.
 
Just did this fix and it worked like a charm. No need to remove the spring. All you need is a small saw, a 10mm socket and a small screwdriver. I used the screwdriver just to finish popping the tabs off as I couldn't quite cut all the way through.
If your wiper arm comes off easily this takes very little time. Remove 1/8" to no more than 3/16" off of the stops. I took a few pictures. Click on the link below to see photos.

Photobucket
Thanks for Posting those pics, as I'm experiencing the same problem with rear windshield wiper making contact with window, but I'm having problems understanding picture 2, with the tape measure...its blocking most of the wiper and I down really have a clear understanding of what your measuring..I see where your cut through on the 2 plastic ridges, but really dont want to start cutting if I dont have a clear idea of how far your going with the cut.

I know it's been a while, but I'm hoping for some clarification on this. I might need it explained to me like I'm 5..lol
 
In photo 2 the wiper arm is removed from the vehicle and laying on it's side. you can see that the bottom of the wiper arm lays almost flat against the tape measure. If you remove somewhere between 1/8" and 3/16" off of the two stops shown cut in photo 3 then it allows the wiper to have a bit of an angle compared to the hinge point and the spring will now pull the wiper flush to the glass. It has been working perfectly for me since I did this simple fix. In photo 3 I just show the cut but had not removed the ~1/8" ends. They popped right off with a light pry of the screwdriver.

For most people the hardest part was removing the wiper arm. Luckily mine easily came off. I hope this helps.

Thanks for Posting those pics, as I'm experiencing the same problem with rear windshield wiper making contact with window, but I'm having problems understanding picture 2, with the tape measure...its blocking most of the wiper and I down really have a clear understanding of what your measuring..I see where your cut through on the 2 plastic ridges, but really dont want to start cutting if I dont have a clear idea of how far your going with the cut.

I know it's been a while, but I'm hoping for some clarification on this. I might need it explained to me like I'm 5..lol
 
In photo 2 the wiper arm is removed from the vehicle and laying on it's side. you can see that the bottom of the wiper arm lays almost flat against the tape measure. If you remove somewhere between 1/8" and 3/16" off of the two stops shown cut in photo 3 then it allows the wiper to have a bit of an angle compared to the hinge point and the spring will now pull the wiper flush to the glass. It has been working perfectly for me since I did this simple fix. In photo 3 I just show the cut but had not removed the ~1/8" ends. They popped right off with a light pry of the screwdriver.

For most people the hardest part was removing the wiper arm. Luckily mine easily came off. I hope this helps.

I like this solution way better than the add on spring mentioned in other threads on this subject! The spring appeared to be effective, but looks hokey as hell! Not to mention the extra spring would be another thing for the car wash to snag and tear off. As it is now, I need to slide a plastic sleeve over the whole blade/arm before going in to prevent the blade from getting ripped off by the swirling cloths. I hate car washes, but it’s a necessity with all the salt they use here to keep corrosion at bay, since it’s way too cold to wash at home. Anyway, I’m going to try modifying the stops as this seems like the best/cleanest solution. Thanks!
 
Thank whoever it was that posted the trim a piece off the arm solution! I was in the process of trying to figure out what the problem was with my rear wiper when this thread popped up. Worked like a charm.
 
Just finished trimming the stop on the wiper arm. Works like a charm. Nice to have a working rear wiper. Thanks for the how-to!
 
Pics

Pics of rear wiper blade - marked in red file down with small file. Works great. Disconnect spring to gain full access to area to be filed. Use needle nose pliers to remove/replace spring

This solves the problem. Let wiper run use spray bottle of water and see the difference of how the wiper blade lays on the glass
 

Attachments

  • A27CA84A-0B67-4D6B-A751-950159D5E72C.jpg
    A27CA84A-0B67-4D6B-A751-950159D5E72C.jpg
    137.5 KB · Views: 1,808
  • 3CFDC7CF-A518-4B84-9AC6-537BBD9856E0.jpg
    3CFDC7CF-A518-4B84-9AC6-537BBD9856E0.jpg
    112.2 KB · Views: 1,730
Last edited:
I am wondering if this could be a window adjustment issue. Personally I have not experienced this issue but I work on a ton of 4 Gens in my shop.
Could it be more prevalent with owners that use the rear window more than others?
If someone is having this issue and have not yet performed the mod have someone climb in the back and push a little bit outward on the rear glass while operating the wiper. If that helps then I would say the glass is out of adjustment or the rubber glass channel is worn out.
Just my .02 cents.
 
I am wondering if this could be a window adjustment issue. Personally I have not experienced this issue but I work on a ton of 4 Gens in my shop.
Could it be more prevalent with owners that use the rear window more than others?
If someone is having this issue and have not yet performed the mod have someone climb in the back and push a little bit outward on the rear glass while operating the wiper. If that helps then I would say the glass is out of adjustment or the rubber glass channel is worn out.
Just my .02 cents.

I can't see anyway the glass could be out of position so much that the wiper wouldn't be able to lay flat, the rubber channel even if it's worn somewhat would never let the glass be that far out of alignment, if it was the glass would never close all the way to allow the wiper to activate.

I have done mechanical work for many years and just can't see that as a possibility.
 
Last edited:
The rear wiper blade on my '05 makes almost no contact with the window. Swings fine and gets back to "base", but is useless for actually wiping anything as it doesn't touch the glass.

Any ideas?

Is your glass the original or has it ever been replaced. Our 06 shattered using the defroster.The replacement (not a Toyota glass) is curved slightly different and the wiper won't wipe it clean like the original did. I even had to adjust the window trim at the bottom to make it fit better.
 
So Ive had to replace rear hatches in my 03 and in my 08. After replacing them, the rear wiper wouldnt touch.

Most recently I had to replace the rear wiper motor in my 08 because the part out I bought the hatch from, the guy used a sawzall for everything and used a sawzall to remove the rear wiper from the spline/ bolt the wiper arm attaches to.

Anyhow, after I got it all buttoned up, the rear wiper was nowhere close to the window. Like it would run parallel to the rear window at 1/4 inch away at not touch. I tried buying the yeti spring helper. That didnt do enough. I tried shaving down the rear wiper arm fulcrum point as discussed in the thread, which helped a little.

Ultimately, I took apart my rear hatch - removed the panel and the tarp for rain/ weather protection. I loosened the bolts that hold the motor in and placed 1/8 inch nylon spacers between the the rubber "washer" that hold the motor secure and the thread hole. This essentially moves the motor back into the hatch and pulls the wiper arm closer to the glass. Problem solved.

[truth be told, I started with 1/4 inch nylon spacers (86 cents for a pair at home depot), but the bolts wouldnt thread with this distance and had to split it in half. Also the driver side spacer kept falling off and I lost it so I only have one spacer on the passenger side motor bolt. But it makes contact and works well. The third bolt at the top of the motor is from a hanging attachment and does hold the motor any further out or closer in so this one doesnt make a difference if you space it]

Anyhow, hope that helps someone else. 86 cent fix, but a little frustrating and difficult to get the spacers in a tight space overhead.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know if this was an issue from the factory? I have a hard time imagining it was, but I recently bought an "OEM" rear wiper blade for my 4Runner and it had the issue where it was too long. I've been wrangling with the company trying to get a partial refund but they're claiming their materials are all legit.
 
Does anyone know if this was an issue from the factory? I have a hard time imagining it was, but I recently bought an "OEM" rear wiper blade for my 4Runner and it had the issue where it was too long. I've been wrangling with the company trying to get a partial refund but they're claiming their materials are all legit.

Very likely is. I bought my 4R used, but the wiper arm that was on it had this issue and I highly doubt a previous owner ever replaced it.

IMO, just file the new one down. You won't see the modification once installed, arguing with the vendor isn't worth the time/effort.
 
Thanks for the response. I already filed it down and it's been working great, my main complaint is that I would have bought a cheaper one on Amazon if I'd known the OEM part had this issue -- I'd read about it but assumed the knockoffs were the ones that came too long and the originals were correct. Could've saved about $50. Which admittedly isn't all that much, but assuming their part was aftermarket like I thought, I was more mad at the principle of it and the fact I could've just bought a cheap one to start with.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top