Rear woofer replacement, foam, cover, and cabinet questions

[Seasparrow]

I just received my Ts-SW2002D2 pioneer 2 ohm to replace the disintegrated rear cargo speaker in the sidewall.

I watched a good video of an audio shop ( YouTube ) showing how to do it and it seems doable (with help from family). Final mount did not use supplied plastic ring or old grill, only grill was in trim panel and no foam between speaker and trim panel. Would you try and put the old grill over speaker ? Would you put foam between speaker and trim panel ?

Enhancing the plastic cabinet, any reason to try and apply mat to the area??

replacing pillar speakers? does anyone know how the speakers in rear pillar come out? I bought (what I think are) 2 original OEM speakers for the pillars. Not sure what I am going to get as the pillar speakers were only 9 dollars, I bought a left and a right. We will see what I get.

Kind of stupid questions but I only want to go in there once.

Thanks for any help.

 

[RobD]

I just received my Ts-SW2002D2 pioneer 2 ohm to replace the disintegrated rear cargo speaker in the sidewall.

I watched a good video of an audio shop ( YouTube ) showing how to do it and it seems doable (with help from family). Final mount did not use supplied plastic ring or old grill, only grill was in trim panel and no foam between speaker and trim panel. Would you try and put the old grill over speaker ? Would you put foam between speaker and trim panel ?

Enhancing the plastic cabinet, any reason to try and apply mat to the area??

replacing pillar speakers? does anyone know how the speakers in rear pillar come out? I bought (what I think are) 2 original OEM speakers for the pillars. Not sure what I am going to get as the pillar speakers were only 9 dollars, I bought a left and a right. We will see what I get.

Kind of stupid questions but I only want to go in there once.

Thanks for any help.

The video from the audio shop is spot on. No foam between the speaker and the trim, just around the subwoofer, if you're so inclined.

Toss the grill, clock the subwoofer slightly so the holes line up. YOU DON'T NEED TO DRILL NEW HOLES. The sub has all the right ones, but you'll just have to rotate it slightly. Not much point in matting the enclosure. You aren't putting a ton of power to it. The speaker plug is shaped like a T. The bottom of the T is positive, the top is negative. I'm not sure why they went through all the trouble of putting their polarity tester on it when they could have just read the terminal on the back of the old sub.

 

[Seasparrow]

Thanks [MENTION=88352]RobD[/MENTION] for the advice, I will foam the back of the speaker and leave the rest of the stuff off.

I listened as he installed it calling out and watching the pairs, It should be

pair = red+ yellow-

pair = black+ green-

I did see a another video of a guy doing his and he did not drill holes, cant see the speaker why drill new holes just to level the logo.

Found a picture on crutchfields site, the rear pillar speaker grill pops off and is easily accessible. Crutchfield was helpful and when It is time for the front speakers I will probably give them my business.
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[RobD]

Thanks [MENTION=88352]RobD[/MENTION] for the advice, I will foam the back of the speaker and leave the rest of the stuff off.

I listened as he installed it calling out and watching the pairs, It should be

pair = red+ yellow-

pair = black+ green-

I did see a another video of a guy doing his and he did not drill holes, cant see the speaker why drill new holes just to level the logo.

Found a picture on crutchfields site, the rear pillar speaker grill pops off and is easily accessible. Crutchfield was helpful and when It is time for the front speakers I will probably give them my business.
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.
.

Just in case your color coding is different, just check the plug. You should find the labeling on it.