Recommendation on oil changes.

[Froglips]

What do you mean when you say that you have never used a car that used oil? And what did you use to measure compression? Did you measure each piston directly? What vehicles and engine types?

Lots of cars over pushing 50 years now. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Honda, even one VW in my much younger days (which did burn oil - bought used and apparently abused).

I would say that an engine uses oil if there is any blue haze visible in the exhaust upon starting or if oil is having to be added between changes. Yes, compression tests are run on each cylinder individually to check for cylinder-to-cylinder variability, high to low across all cylinders and to see if all are within spec and spec range (+/-) according to the shop manual. Easiest to do this when changing spark plugs. If there is a low reading, one can start investigating to determine if it is a ring, valve or a head gasket problem.

All I was trying to convey in my initial post was a "new car habit" of mine that has worked for me, similar to people's various opinions on how to break-in a new car. It was also a compliment on this new Toyota that I did not observe stuff in the initial oil change that I had seen with other manufacturer's engines.

Thanks - I'm done.

 

[Quentin]

Just did my first oil change on my V6 SR5 4WD.

Comments:
- You need a 67mm filter socket. A 65 will NOT work. I had to buy another one today.
- The skid plate makes this a messy, messy process. I got a radiator hose to attach to the little drain from the filter housing and that went well, but taking the filter housing out spilled loads of oil all over the floor because the skid plate doesn't pivot all the way back and you end up reaching around it a bit. The skid plate prevents you from putting your catch pan directly beneath where the filter housing attaches.
- Putting the jack under the frame on the driver side gives a little more room to get under there.
- Really, if you have access to a lift, this oil change would be far, far easier.

Otherwise, it went well and Harvey has new 0W-20 Toyota synthetic. I checked the level prior to draining and it was set right at full. So, my T4R doesn't consume any oil. 3 vehicles following strict break-in, 3 vehicles that don't burn a drop of oil.

 

[Quentin]

Hey! I had the same problem re: skid plate, until I realized that the skid plate is actually removable! I could definitely see how having the skid plate on the hinge would make the oil change really, really sucky! Also, I used a impact driver with impact sockets to make really quick work of the skid plate.

Re: taking the skid plate off, search these boards for a repair manual (someone kindly posted this). It's REALLY useful since it diagrams everything and provides Toyota recommended torque settings. I found the plastic oil drain plug for draining the filter was useful as well, but the filter definitely still had oil after the drain plug stopped draining. I think I'll have to shove it in a little more next time (TWSS).

Yeah, I think I'll be taking the skidplate completely off the next time. I think I know how it comes off but I'll check the TIS at work next week. Like you, I expected a lot less oil in the cartridge housing by using the provided drain. I am 90% certain that I had it fully flush.

I need to get a small impact wrench. It will make rotating tires (running the nuts off after breaking torque) much easier too.

 

[1000MPH]

Geez, didn't you guys read my "how to" starting on post 58?

The lower bumper cover is 5 bolts and a clip. Taking this cover off makes the front engine cover easy to remove without raising the car.

 

[Quentin]

Geez, didn't you guys read my "how to" starting on post 58?

Raising the car isn't an issue for me. I usually put my cars on jack stands when I change oil just for comfort. I was under the impression that the skidplate would move back more to allow more clearance than it does.

 

[mpaquette]

Geez, didn't you guys read my "how to" starting on post 58?

I changed my oil for the first time this weekend. Pay attention to what 100MPH wrote up and you'll be fine. Definitely take off the lower cover so you can completely remove the skid plate. I used ramps while doing the change and it couldn't have been any easier.

Anyone complaining about the skid plate being complicated to remove has probably never changed the oil on a Volkswagen. :

 

[Quentin]

I changed my oil for the first time this weekend. Pay attention to what 100MPH wrote up and you'll be fine. Definitely take off the lower cover so you can completely remove the skid plate. I used ramps while doing the change and it couldn't have been any easier.

Anyone complaining about the skid plate being complicated to remove has probably never changed the oil on a Volkswagen. :

I just sold my VW GTI last week, actually. The VW was pretty simple. 4 bolts remove the underbelly tray and it is like any other oil change after that. In fact, I wish Toyota would go to the cartridge style like the Germans; instead of using a fluted filter wrench, you use a 37mm (i think) hex socket. I initially bought a 65mm wrench and was forced to get a 65/67 combo wrench in a pinch instead of a 67mm only. It just doesn't fit all that well and that makes removing and installing the T4R canister a pain.

Reminds me, I need to rotate my tires.

 

[mpaquette]

I just sold my VW GTI last week, actually. The VW was pretty simple. 4 bolts remove the underbelly tray and it is like any other oil change after that. In fact, I wish Toyota would go to the cartridge style like the Germans; instead of using a fluted filter wrench, you use a 37mm (i think) hex socket. I initially bought a 65mm wrench and was forced to get a 65/67 combo wrench in a pinch instead of a 67mm only. It just doesn't fit all that well and that makes removing and installing the T4R canister a pain.

Reminds me, I need to rotate my tires.

Hmmm, must have been my Passat then. I swear that plastic piece of crap belly pan had a mind of its own on that car. It had fasteners in the wheel wells that had to be remove (4) and probably another 6 or 8 on the pan itself. Removing it wasn't all that bad, but getting it back on was an exercise in patience. The Passat had an old fashioned canister oil filter the size of a coffee can and it had to be removed from the top, but only after disconnecting some hoses.

I'm pretty sure the wrench I have is 65mm and worked perfectly. I bought the overpriced wrench directly from Toyota. I was surprised the filter housing on the Toyota is plastic.

 

[Physgirl]

Just did my first oil change on my V6 SR5 4WD.

Comments:
- You need a 67mm filter socket. A 65 will NOT work. I had to buy another one today.
- The skid plate makes this a messy, messy process. I got a radiator hose to attach to the little drain from the filter housing and that went well, but taking the filter housing out spilled loads of oil all over the floor because the skid plate doesn't pivot all the way back and you end up reaching around it a bit. The skid plate prevents you from putting your catch pan directly beneath where the filter housing attaches.
- Putting the jack under the frame on the driver side gives a little more room to get under there.
- Really, if you have access to a lift, this oil change would be far, far easier.

Otherwise, it went well and Harvey has new 0W-20 Toyota synthetic. I checked the level prior to draining and it was set right at full. So, my T4R doesn't consume any oil. 3 vehicles following strict break-in, 3 vehicles that don't burn a drop of oil.

You need to remove the skid plate for the process to go smoothly. I bent the tabs to make the next removal easier. Which way is everyone bending them? Bending them away from the skid plate works but barely. Best bet would be to cut them off.

I purchased a dual filter wrench this morning, 65/67 and as others have posted this will not work. I had to put 4 layers of paper towels in between to get the socket to seat properly, the filter housing is most definitely a 65mm. It slips on the 67 and does not seat deep enough to engage the 65mm flats. I will purchase a proper tool soon. I was not able to get the metal clip to go past the tab on the engine side aluminum boss, but the thing is very tight and I got up to 25 ft-lbs, didn't want to break anything. Definitely a PITA oil change but I am glad it was done at 1200 miles to get out any metal particles just in case.

 

[lebowski_c6]

Why did toyota get rid of the oil filter accessible from above like on the 4th gen? That was a brilliant design.

I'll probably do my first change next weekend. I have to say it's a bit disappointing you have to lift the vehicle, for something with as much ground clearance as the 4R they could have designed it so the oil can be changed more easily. I can change the oil and filter on my '06 corvette without lifting it, and that thing has zero ground clearance.

I do have a set of Race Ramps, not sure what the weight capacity is on them.


For oil, it looks like you guys are using Toyota branded oil? I thought it was Mobile 1. Does Mobile 1 not have a 0W-20 that I can pick up at Walmart?

 

[1000MPH]

Walmart has M1 0W-20 in quarts but not the 5qt size. You do not need to lift the truck or bend/break the tabs if you take off the front plastic cover. It's 5 screws and a clip.

 

[al bundy]

I agree with the last two posters. You do not need to raise the truck at all. I took off the plastic cowling by removing the plastic clips. Then the skid plate comes completely off. Plenty of room then. The oil filter is rather mickey mouse, but readily available from Toyata for about $5.00 Mobil1 0w20w is available in quarts at most Wal Marts or Oreily.
I think the only reason Toyota made all of this difficult is so the dealers will get more service. Not an easy 123 job like it used to be. If you read this entire post , 1000mph and others really outline the procedure pretty well.

 

[lebowski_c6]

I agree with the last two posters. You do not need to raise the truck at all. I took off the plastic cowling by removing the plastic clips. Then the skid plate comes completely off. Plenty of room then. The oil filter is rather mickey mouse, but readily available from Toyata for about $5.00 Mobil1 0w20w is available in quarts at most Wal Marts or Oreily.
I think the only reason Toyota made all of this difficult is so the dealers will get more service. Not an easy 123 job like it used to be. If you read this entire post , 1000mph and others really outline the procedure pretty well.

Thanks. I always prefer not having to lift the vehicle at home to do an oil change if I can avoid it.

I ordered some TRD oil filters and will pick up some Mobil 1 and maybe do it this weekend with pics.

 

[harper7]

No need to bend the hooks.Changing oil this weekend.I'll shoot some pics as always.

 

[Mike G.]

I just finished my first oil & filter change (1,000 miles), it`s not that hard but it should be easier. Here`s a few notes and opinions.

- Ramps make this a lot easier.

- Make a note in your maintenance book what tools you will need.

- If you plan on doing all of your own oil changes, I would recommend
cutting off the two tabs, they are designed so a tech with a lift can let
the skid plate hang, if you are working from the front of the truck with
ramps the hanging skid plate gets in your way. Mine were a pain to get
free, so they are gone. If you have no problems with them, leave them on.

- I left the skid plates off after every thing was complete and let the motor
get to operating temperature, this allows you to check for leaks. I feel
there is greater chance of having an issue (o-rings and such) than a
regular canister filter. Just double check your work.

- I would never take this truck to any fast service oil change shop, they
screw up enough simple oil changes as it is. I also don`t trust dealer
tech`s, they get lazy and take short cuts, I could see o-rings not getting
replaced, oil filter housing not getting cleaned out, and not checking for
leaks after they are done, not to mention what type of oil are they putting in the
truck? If you have to take it to a dealer I would at least take a look for
leaks under the truck.

- This is not that hard to do, the other guys really helped with the pictures
and info. they posted.

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

I have yet to do my first oil change and I am at 5,260 miles. I normally don't wait this long, but I have been trying to figure out which way to go and time seems to be flying by lately.

I got the Service Vouchers mailed to me for the free Oil changes, however I called up Toyota and for Synthetic Oil, they want an additional $45 on top of the voucher. I was thinking about just going the Mobil One route or even just buying Toyota branded Oil, but decided to just start with Amsoil.

I have been using Amsoil for quite a few years now, and the cost difference in the end wasn't too much more then the other routes. I just placed an order today, had to order some for my friends 07' 4Runner anyways so figured why not.

I'm getting a total of 7 qts of 0W-20 and a Wix filter.

I want to thank all of you that have posted your experiences while doing an oil change with these new cartridge style filters. I miss the top engine mounted spin on filter that my Tacoma had. :sobbing: After reading all these posts, changing the filter doesn't seem "all" that bad anymore.

I want to avoid the dealer for the same reasons Mike G. posted above.

 

[Froggy]

. . . I got the Service Vouchers mailed to me for the free Oil changes, however I called up Toyota and for Synthetic Oil, they want an additional $45 on top of the voucher. . .

Right from Toyota's 4RUNNER 2010 WARRANTY & MAINTENANCE GUIDE:

For 6 cylinder engine equipped vehicles,
the oil change interval is 10,000 miles or
12 months IF 0W20 MOTOR OIL IS BEING
USED. If 0W20 is not available, 5W20
mineral oil may be used, however, it must
be replaced at a 5,000 miles or 6 month
INTERVAL with 0W20 motor oil.

Seems strange that you have mentioned "free oil changes" yet the dealer is demanding $45 for synthetic oil. My read of the 4RUNNER 2010 WARRANTY & MAINTENANCE GUIDE suggests that the dealer MUST use 0W20 oil (only available as a synthetic I believe) unless 0W20 is not available. Of course the oil change interval is 10,000 mile unless the vehicle is operated under Special Operating Conditions.

 

[Froggy]

Are you saying that if a dealer doesn't have 0W-20, they'd put in something else? Even something that's not synthetic??? . . .

I said nothing about what a dealer might "put in"—I quoted the 4RUNNER 2010WARRANTY & MAINTENANCE GUIDE to show what Toyota requires for oil. My read of that guide suggests that synthetic oil MUST be used, the only exception being "If 0W20 is not available, 5W20 mineral oil may be used". The mere fact that a "dealer is demanding $45 for synthetic oil" tells me that synthetic oil IS available and, because of its availability, mineral oil CANNOT be used.

I don't know the wording of specific Service Vouchers or 'Free' Maintainance Plans but it seems to me a dealer would have a tough time charging extra for synthetic oil when that is what Toyota specifies.

 

[Quentin]

You need to remove the skid plate for the process to go smoothly. I bent the tabs to make the next removal easier. Which way is everyone bending them? Bending them away from the skid plate works but barely. Best bet would be to cut them off.

I purchased a dual filter wrench this morning, 65/67 and as others have posted this will not work. I had to put 4 layers of paper towels in between to get the socket to seat properly, the filter housing is most definitely a 65mm. It slips on the 67 and does not seat deep enough to engage the 65mm flats. I will purchase a proper tool soon. I was not able to get the metal clip to go past the tab on the engine side aluminum boss, but the thing is very tight and I got up to 25 ft-lbs, didn't want to break anything. Definitely a PITA oil change but I am glad it was done at 1200 miles to get out any metal particles just in case.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/4R12.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i13/qwikkota/4R11.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

My 65 wouldn't fit, but the 65/67 combo wrench would fit... but I had to push it up to where it was seated against the 65mm portion! I might have just had a poorly manufactured 65 wrench.

My cartridge felt tight when tightening it, but it moved with a steady torque until the little clip was fully seated against the lower crankcase.

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

I'm gonna do my Oil Change today, so yesterday I went to Toyota to get a filter since my WIX from Amsoil hasn't shown up yet and to get the washers for the drain plug.

Right behind me hanging up they had the oil filter wrenches. They had a 65mm which I was gonna buy since everyone on this thread has said it's definitely 65mm. The parts guy was suggesting using the 64mm because that's what all the tundras use I guess. I was doubting him, so he called the service dept and asked them, unfortunately no one knew because they have yet to do an oil change on the 5th gen 4Runner. I even had him look up the SST to see if there was any dimensions on that. There wasn't. I took his word for it and bought the 64MM.

A few minutes ago here at work, I went outside took the front plastic piece, then the skid as everyone has suggested, took just a few minutes. I stuck the wrench up to the filter housing and it fits perfectly.

So for everyone, a 64MM X 14 filter wrench is the perfect size for the Filter housing or at least mine, which should be the same for all 5th gens. It was $13.29 from the dealer and as you can see in the pics, the piece that attaches to the 3/8 ratchet is fully welded to the main piece.