Recovery Gear Options

[Dalko43]

OP,

I'm not a hard core trail guy. I'll go explore some old hunting/logging roads during the warmer months. But even during my mild explorations, I've encountered situations where recovery gear is good to have...muddy tracks, creek crossings, also lots of snow up here in NY.

So if you're going off the beaten path at all, I wouldn't hesitate to spend some money on some decent gear. There's a good chance it will sit in your trunk for most of its life, but when you get into a situation where you need it, you don't want to rely on crappy quality gear.

I can't provide feedback on everything you are looking to get, but for the D rings, tree-straps, recover straps, I'd say avoid getting low-quality stuff.

Make sure the D-ring has its Working Load Limit (WLL) written on it; rule of thumb is it should cover your vehicles gross weight and then some.

Make sure you get a recovery strap that is actually rated for recoveries (meaning its has some kinetic stretch in it). Don't get a generic, cheaper tow strap; they are not rated for kinetic recoveries. If you want something higher-quality, you can also get the recovery ropes (Vodoo makes one for example), but they do cost more than the regular straps. Rule of thumb: it should be rated for 2-3x the gross weight of your vehicle.

If you get a trailer hitch recovery kit, again make sure its WLL is posted somewhere by the manufacturer.


I got a 10ft tree strap (really good for connecting to two different recovery points on a vehicle), recovery strap rated at 17,600lbs, 2 D-rings rated at 4.75T all from ARB...they cost perhaps a bit more than some of their competitors, but they have a solid reputation and all of their gear has the WLL's and specifications written on it.

I also got the trailer hitch recovery point (4.75T) from Smittybuilt. Would have preferred to get it from ARB, but they don't sell those.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Hi Lift jack points???

I really can't tell if you're serious or just trolling. Several people use/bring a hi lift for those just in case moments. We all hope to not have to use it to lift the truck up but will be glad we have it when it's needed. ...

You work with what you have. A hi lift is better than no hi lift. ...

And yes, we do have hi lifts. Mine is mounted on the rear like my cousin's and the tacoma has his secured to the rack.

Hi lifts were mounted upside down with the base plate and handle inside the trunk to allow more clearance with our departure angles.

No, I'm serious. The questions about a hi-lift are sincere.

I can't tell from your Avatar who you are (it's not you, correct?) and your forum name is not yours, right? There's a lot lost in translation with forum posts. Like I said, you live close enough we could have this discussion in person.

A 5th Gen T4R has exposed thin body work all around the outside. Where do you attach the hi-lift? Your jack in the photo looks like it's set up to lift at the rock sliders. Thanks for the photo, BTW. I like the way you're carrying it.

I'm painting another coat on my rock sliders today. Come by and I'll let you paint some too. :naughty:

 

[03_4x4Runner]

I never did get around to doing it, but I had an idea to combat this problem.
I was going to take 2" lengths of 1/4" straight rod, or rebar, and weld them to the bottom of the bumper. tacked in the middle, the using a hammer, pounding it down, until it followed the profile of the bar, then welding it the rest of the way.

That will work.

 

[nevada]

I recently found these,


Shackles


for the price, I don't think you can beat them. just look at the ratings!

 

[dchild]

A 5th Gen T4R has exposed thin body work all around the outside. Where do you attach the hi-lift?

You use a lift mate, which has hooks to lift from the rims. Plus you don't have to jack as far since the suspension stays loaded.

When used as a winch (for example with this kit), the hi-lift has a >2T rating/3.5T limit, and it is supposed to fail safely (it has a pin that will snap and lock it in place). Both of those make it safer than a come along in my view.

4x4s can be useful in a lot of ways; you can stack them to get over rocks or even make little ramps/bridges, you can put them under your wheels in mud (sort of like max trax), an impromptu base for a jack or to give the bottle jack extra height. They aren't really ideal for any of these purposes but they work.

Another option that I have not used personally is an exhaust jack, they seem to be able to lift safely and on irregular surfaces.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Yeah, just make sure to use a bung otherwise the two straps can fuse together on a really hard pull. Rolled up newspaper or magazine will do the trick.


I'll add a 3' long 1/2" drive breaker bar to that as well.

...While it isn't specifically the hitch, you can see what I'm talking about in this video.

https://youtu.be/0xsV2FJin_A?t=2m22s

Hi Intruder,
You've posted several good responses. I have two questions:
What is a bung? I know why you need something there so you can get the straps apart later.

What is the breaker bar for? Is that something to do with a wrench and the lug nuts? Is it just a handle for extending the length of a ratchet?

I'll check the video out later today. I think I get it. The hitch is one of the hardest places to lift from due to the suspension sag on the wheels, you're reducing the truck's traction to the front two wheels, and it's dead center on the back end, forming a balance point that can lean either way. Thanks again.
Dave

 

[DesertCanyons]

Good info and list

I have the WS come along you mentioned. I find it very useful for both recovery and other misc scenarios where pulling power is required (in fact I've used it for non recovery more than recovery). ...

Hi lifts are interesting. They are both the best and worst tool for many scenarios... ...

Maxtrax are another great light recovery tool. ...

Here is what I carry in my 5th gen when fully geared up.
- Hilift
- WS power puller
- 25ft winch line extension
- 1 tow strap
- 1 snatch strap
- 1 Tree saver
- 1 soft strap
- 3 D shackles
- 2 snatch blocks
- 2 Maxtrax
- 1 wood base 2x12x2'
- 1 jackstand with integrated bottle jack

Speaking of the hilift... here is a pic from this past weekend ...

Thanks wfo9,
Lots of good info here. Your list is very good. I'll probably acquire about half of that before my next trip.
You have some good ideas for the Hi-lift. With the right accessories it can be used on a 5th gen T4R.
The one big issue I see with your pic' is the guy is depending completely on the lift while he works under the truck, AFAIK.

 

[Intruder]

Make sure the D-ring has its Working Load Limit (WLL) written on it; rule of thumb is it should cover your vehicles gross weight and then some.

That's actually not right at all and could get someone killed. The shackle should have a WLL much higher than the break strength of your straps and winch line. That way your strap or line will break long before the shackle fails.

Hi Intruder,
You've posted several good responses. I have two questions:
What is a bung? I know why you need something there so you can get the straps apart later.

It's just something you put between the two strap loops to keep them from fusing. Like I said, you could use a rolled up magazine or newspaper, anything that is strong enough to keep the straps apart during the pull but not as likely to go through a windshield if a strap breaks.

What is the breaker bar for? Is that something to do with a wrench and the lug nuts? Is it just a handle for extending the length of a ratchet?

Yeah, it's just a long bar that'll accept your ratchet heads. Really handy for those bolts that are seized from mud, rust, salt, etc.

I'll check the video out later today. I think I get it. The hitch is one of the hardest places to lift from due to the suspension sag on the wheels, you're reducing the truck's traction to the front two wheels, and it's dead center on the back end, forming a balance point that can lean either way. Thanks again.
Dave

Yup, you got it.

 

[Dalko43]

That's actually not right at all and could get someone killed. The shackle should have a WLL much higher than the break strength of your straps and winch line. That way your strap or line will break long before the shackle fails.

No, my feedback was pretty spot-on.

A 4runner's Gross vehicle weight is ~ 6,300lbs.

A 4.75T D shackle (like this one from ARB: ARB D Shackle 4.75T, 10,472lb (ARB207D)) has a rated WLL of about 10,500lbs...note that is the WLL, not the ultimate strength, which is much higher (2-3x higher, depending on how the testing is conducted). I think getting a D shackle with a WLL higher than your strap's break strength (which should be somewhere around 16k-19k lbs) is quite an overkill for a 4runner.

10,500lbs covers the 4runner's gross weight and then some, for purposes of WLL. A 4.75T D shackle is more than sufficient for a 4runner.

You can go check out this article on offroad recovery tools for more info: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/essential-towpoint-ideas-for-proper-offroad-recovery-13500.html

 

[carlomagne]

No, I'm serious. The questions about a hi-lift are sincere.

I can't tell from your Avatar who you are (it's not you, correct?) and your forum name is not yours, right? There's a lot lost in translation with forum posts. Like I said, you live close enough we could have this discussion in person.

A 5th Gen T4R has exposed thin body work all around the outside. Where do you attach the hi-lift? Your jack in the photo looks like it's set up to lift at the rock sliders. Thanks for the photo, BTW. I like the way you're carrying it.

I'm painting another coat on my rock sliders today. Come by and I'll let you paint some too. :naughty:

Hahaha i give up. Believe what you want to believe. A hi lift is a worthy investment for under $200 including a slider attachment and larger base plate.

 

[Chsbrgr]

Thanks [MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION]

It's a good list. This includes everything I've been looking at. When ordering through Amazon you can end up paying individual shipping for each item because they all come from different suppliers. I'm looking for one source that might sell all of the items I want. I think I found one in Gardena, CA that carries or can order most of everything I need.

I like your last comment. Safety first. Best safety device is between your ears. You have to know how to use this stuff properly.

Gardena eh? Probably https://www.expeditionexchange.com/contact/

The prices are right and the customer service is excellent!

 

[delloro]

DesertCanyons, I have yet to be stuck within winching distance of a tree. So I have yet to buy a winch.

Here in the SW, sand and high-centering are the likely risks. A shovel, tow straps, a compressor, shackles and fix-a-flat are all I carry for recovery gear. If I was facing sand for sure, traction boards might be tempting.

Instead of a winch to get me out, I will first get a locker to keep me out. Trying not to get the Harrop elocker....

 

[CharlestonFisher]

Never use a Hilift in the hitch, it's a disaster waiting to happen. Either you'll put the Hilift through the back window (the jack begins to angle towards the vehicle as you lift it) or the entire vehicle will become unstable and slip to one side. I've seen people use that as a legitimate recovery technique, but they did it on purpose and knew what they were doing. Still dangerous as hell though.

Good stuff here. This is another reason to install rear recovery points on a 4Runner. Trainers will anticipate the jack moving towards the vehicle by starting the lift with it angled out so it self corrects at the top of the lift. Ideally one would angle the jack towards the diagonal wheel (assuming level ground). Having soft shackles would allow the jack to start at the correct angle. See below:

 

[e60ral]

Can someone recommend a strap and shackles on Amazon?

Also, I've read that soft shackles are a good idea, any downsides?

 

[spencenasty]

Hahaha i give up. Believe what you want to believe. A hi lift is a worthy investment for under $200 including a slider attachment and larger base plate.

Don't go, DesertCanyon may be a new age Buffalo Bill.

 

[wfo9]

The one big issue I see with your pic' is the guy is depending completely on the lift while he works under the truck, AFAIK.

He is not really working under the truck... He is putting a ratcheting strap around the tire so the bead will set... At this angle, there was really no other alternative. You can't really tell from the pic, but the angle is a good 45* and the front end was pretty light... I did not have my bottlejack/stand with me. That under the front axle would have probably been a more ideal choice, but you have to work with what you have...

My main point was:
Ratchet strap is a good extremely cheap tool for a lost bead.. much faster and easier than putting on a spare. On board air of some sort is a 100% required recovery tool in my book.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Expedition Exchange

Gardena eh? Probably https://www.expeditionexchange.com/contact/

The prices are right and the customer service is excellent!

Thanks for the tip. Yes, that's the place. I plan to call them this morning and find out what they have in stock before I drive 30 minutes to see them. It may be cheaper than shipping costs if they have most of what I need.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Ratchet strap for tire bead

He is not really working under the truck... He is putting a ratcheting strap around the tire so the bead will set... At this angle, there was really no other alternative. You can't really tell from the pic, but the angle is a good 45* and the front end was pretty light... I did not have my bottlejack/stand with me. That under the front axle would have probably been a more ideal choice, but you have to work with what you have...

My main point was:
Ratchet strap is a good extremely cheap tool for a lost bead.. much faster and easier than putting on a spare. On board air of some sort is a 100% required recovery tool in my book.

Good point. I will have to see what I have in a ratchet strap and if it's the right size for this.

I understood the angle somewhat but couldn't be sure how close the guy was to being under the truck.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Soft Shackles & Hi-Lift

Good stuff here. This is another reason to install rear recovery points on a 4Runner. Trainers will anticipate the jack moving towards the vehicle by starting the lift with it angled out so it self corrects at the top of the lift. Ideally one would angle the jack towards the diagonal wheel (assuming level ground). Having soft shackles would allow the jack to start at the correct angle. See below:

Thanks,
What kind of recovery points do you have on your 4Runner? To use the hi lift jack on the rear corner I believe you need either a steel bumper or a projection of steel tube welded to the frame that extends past the plastic bumper. Not sure what is needed or how it might work. Anything under the bumper would lower the departure angle. Certainly the 4Runner needs two good hooks or shackle holes in the back. But that would not allow using a hi-lift with a strap around the weak plastic bumper, would it?

I've looked at these soft shackles and know they would be preferred over a steel shackle in some rigging situations, but looking at them I can not see how they work. Do they come apart and reconnect? Does the loop depend on the knot and the feeding of the rope back into itself? I can not tell how it holds the loop together.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Hahaha i give up. Believe what you want to believe. A hi lift is a worthy investment for under $200 including a slider attachment and larger base plate.

CarloMagne,
I don't know anything about the hi-lift jacks. That's why I'm asking questions.

I ask because I still don't see very many points on a T4R to lift from with a high-lift. And yes, your rock slider attachment works but may lift the whole side rather than one wheel.

All my local friends with many years of off-roading experience tell me to skip the high-lift and carry a good cylinder jack.