remove bj spacers and crank up tbars or crank down tbars and keep spacers?

[jimmy94]

my 94 has no shcoks, no cv shafts, bad balljoints and tierod ends. and im still driving it daily b/c of lack of another vehicle. it has front balljoint spacers, and rear land cruiser coils. rear has bad shocks, but are there. so, i need the cheapest way possible to keep my lift, and fix my truck without buying a 800 dollar rough country drop kit for my front end. i simply cant afford it. should my installing balljoint spacers have murdered my cv shafts like that? in less than 2 months? given, i had no front shocks. my tbars were set a little above factory. also, the 6 bolt flanges that the cv shafts bolt onto the diff are broken off and still bolted to my cv shafts...repairable? i have my diff, drive shaft, cv shafts all are removed. still drives good, up until i hit any bump then my wheels wobble allover the place and i have to stop almost and reaccelerate. this a result of no front axles or horribly bad balljoints and tie rods.. thanks for any advise!!! i do have a parts truck with all the parts i need except ext front shocks. could i retrofit the rear shocks to the front? anyt ideas? i apologize for the repetitiveness.. i figure that more question i ask and more opinions i get the more fit i will be to to help myself and others

 

[ChoochCharlie]

Dude. This sounds like a troll, but I think your serious?
Your truck is deadly to drive right now. No shocks - Bad. Bad ball joints - Very Bad. Bad balljoints - deadly accident waiting to happen.
You need to park this thing and get some parts on it.
Install new ball joints, shocks and tie rods. Then you have a safe 2x4 to drive. Then get it to a trans shop about the broken flanges. and no, front and rear shocks are not interchangeable.

 

[Hyde802]

Pot some spaces in your next post, makes my head hurt. Also, You dont need to start a new thread, just ask the question in one of your OTHER THREAD TALKING ABOUT THE SAME THING.

The bolts that connect the CV to the stub shaft can be hammered out like a lug nut.

As for your CV shafts, look into switching to manual hubs so they are not turning when your in 2wd on the road.

And fix your worn front end parts, ball joints are cheaper than a ambulance ride. Having your axles removed isnt effecting this. Shocks can be had for under 20$ a pop. Get some, youll be amazed how much better the ride is.

 

[KidVermicious]

No, your BJ spacers by themselves should not have destroyed your CVs.

Second the above sentiments, as well. Park that death trap and ride the bus until you get it repaired, you are a menace to yourself and others.

 

[j2custom]

Go on ebay, search 4runner suspension and buy the ball joint, tie rod end, pitman arm and idler arm kit that is sold as a kit. It is less than $80.00 and is all direct replacement stuff. Like Hyde802 said get some O'Reilly shocks for cheap... You only need 1-2" front shocks with the BJS. The rear are approximately 27" long fully extended and 15-16" compressed. Any good parts guy can look up according to stock length and add what you need. HTH :guitar3:

 

[ruskymx]

No offense, but I'm glad I don't drive in northern Ohio. :jaw drop: Park it and fix it before you hurt yourself or someone else because you lose control of the vehicle.

Ruskymx

 

[jimmy94]

i did actually order the kit off ebay for the front end rebuild, and installed the balljoints but havent yet done the rest, planning on this weekend being off work for the holiday. thanks for the referance j2custom!. i put the stab. bar and links on from my other runner because i found mine messed up.


i need to weld my custom shcok mounts on my drivers side LCA. there rusty and cracked from the salty roads up here. had a buddy make these for me he has a metal shop.

 

[brs256]

Very unsafe truck to drive .... your vehicle will b reported to the state highway patrol ... BTW the probe runs great ... and dosnt have a broken axle shaft or bent brush guard ... and my Ford explorer is getting 32" super swamper tsl's mounted tomorrow ... guess who has a working 4x4 ....

To all members DO NOT PURCHASE anything from this KID .... he is a liar and a thief ... he stole his mother's title to "his" 4runner .... and trade it to me...he is an experienced back yard mechanic who dosnt know what he is doing when it comes to 4x4's .... that 4runner is still driven daily with no shocks


Sorry for the rant everyone ... I just wish that none of you get screwed like I did.. by this KID and his mommy

 

[T?@\7]

plz esplain

 

[Hyde802]

 

[run4yota]

look on ebay, there is a company i think it's like 5startrucks or something similar. he sells all kinds of shock kits for different applications and lifts for real cheap, i got 4 pro comp es 9000's for 3" lift for 149 after shipping.

the front lift tearing up your cv's is a common problem with people whobinstall them without checking the cv angles for proper clearance. jack the vehicle up in the air with the cv's installed and let the tires hang at full drop. the front tires should rotate freely. if they rotate a little and then bind it's because your cv angles are to steep and they need to be lowered. there are two ways to to fix this problem one is to buy a differential drop down kit from "fat bobs garage" they are about 40 bucks i belive. they will work grat if your jus barely binding, but if you are binding quite a bit the only real solution is to put in thicker bump stops in your front end. on some bj spacer kits that are real radical youwill need to do both and possibly even use washer's to make the bump stop even thicker. on mine i have a 3" ball joint spacer, with the diff drop kit, and 1/4" thick washer to lower the bump stop, and i'm BARELY in the clear with that. i had to custom weld plates to my front diff mount to lower it (whick brings the frond drive shaft angles to near stock.. umm winning) and now i finally have good lift (about 3.5") and a cv friendly angle at full droop. will this cut down on your travel un fortunately yes, but it's a must if you plan on getting your cv's to last more than a few months.

+1 on removing the cv bolts with a hammer.. makes the job 10x easyer.

also your ball joints might be fine, if you have spacers with no allignment you will experience the same symptoms of worn ball joints. a worn idler arm will cause this problem too.

good luck!

p.s. to the guy ranting about god knows what... we were all stupid kids at one point, but we grow into the people we are by making mistakes and learning from them... i messed up many things before i learned how to do it right, but now i have a considerable amount of knolage from it. the purpose of this forum is to build a community of people who can help eachother by sharing information on how to solve problems, not create more by bad mouthing someone... keep personal issue personal. thanks

 

[T?@\7]

but now i have a considerable amount of knolage

:dammit::hatsoff: