Replace all 4 leaking Struts, any suggestion for cheap?

Steve40th396 said:
This kit shows 4 springs with the kit, but states only two fronts. What rear spring would compliment this system?
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Depends on what purpose you have in mind. Towing or carrying a heavy load but don't need a lift? Increase your spring rate to match the weight. Want a little bit of lift while putting a heavy load on it? They make lift springs with an increased load rating.
Want more suspension travel? Metal Tech makes a dual rate spring for longer travel suspensions that come in medium or heavy duty loads that give you a little bit of lift also. I have the MT mediums and love em. There are quite a few options out there.
Eibach has them on their site.
16+ 4RUNNER 1" REAR LIFTS SPRING
 
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Front right on my '15 Limited with 68k miles is soaked, looks like i'll be putting 5100's on soon. $460 before tax/shipping for all four right now through Rock Auto. Was debating new springs but with less than 70k miles on the stock ones I don't think it's worth another $2-300. Also with the strut mounts for the top up front, ok to reuse the old ones or should i throw two of those in the cart before i checkout?
 
MZ2215 said:
Front right on my '15 Limited with 68k miles is soaked, looks like i'll be putting 5100's on soon. $460 before tax/shipping for all four right now through Rock Auto. Was debating new springs but with less than 70k miles on the stock ones I don't think it's worth another $2-300. Also with the strut mounts for the top up front, ok to reuse the old ones or should i throw two of those in the cart before i checkout?
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Unless you want different springs, replacing would be a total waste. Those springs have at least another decade and 100k+ miles of healthy life.

I would replace all rubber components and any corroded or damaged fasteners while I was in there.
 
I finally replaced 4 struts with Bilstein 4600 for my 2010 limited and removed entire X-REAS. As my truck is older and kind of rusty, plus it is the first time for me, it took me 2 full days to get the job done. First side was taking longer for sure as you will face challenges. When move to another side, you are master of this already and will be a lot quicker.

Here are some tips I would like to share, and they are based on 5gen 4Runner Limited with X-REAS:

  • For front strut, not just doable without spring compressor, it is actually much EASIER and SAFER. So, I highly recommend you go this way. It looks complicated mentally only. Turns out it is the best and easiest way to do so if you do this work at home when car is stay on the ground with only 1 corner up.
  • It doesn’t mess up my alignment at all, not sure if I am just lucky or because rusty welded it ��
  • You only need one jack stand (to keep one corner up) and one jack to get all 4 struts replaced. It is safe enough, no hard force you need to do.
  • To remove the entire X-REAS (I guess everyone will do this if you are reading my comments here), you don’t need to lift the entire car. You only need to do one corner at once, while you are replacing each strut. Of course, if you have X-REAS, you have to replace all 4 struts (I mean still one corner at once).
  • Because of X-REAS, Oil will leak, but not too much. You will get messy, cannot really keep ground oil free. I put lots of cardboards and oil pan, but still oil dripped to the floor as sometimes you just cannot keep up.
  • Do rear struts first as it is easier so you can gain some kind experience.
  • As the job is oily, you will easily get brake rotor dirty. Make sure clean it up before you put tires back.
  • To do front struts, you need a second hand to help you when you drop/lift the lower control arm. My 10 year old helped me. I promote to pay him double of the lawn mowing ��
  • Neither front nor rear strut removal requires disconnect swing arm (Stabiliser Bar) at all. I didn’t do it and still can easily take struts out or put them back in.


The videos I used are following 3 which are good enough for everything:
 
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Thank you for sharing your experience, lessons learned, and the resources you used.

I have a Limited and will likely have to do this one day, please share your thoughts on the 4600 vs XREAS (if you remember how it rode before failure)?
 
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Bmnorm2 said:
Thank you for sharing your experience, lessons learned, and the resources you used.

I have a Limited and will likely have to do this one day, please share your thoughts on the 4600 vs XREAS (if you remember how it rode before failure)?
Click to expand...

I didn't get chance to drive it yet. I will have entry here for sure after.

Another thought, due to huge price difference between 4600 and XREAS, both parts and labor, there is just no reason to keep it. I for sure won't go for XREAS shock parts and DIY at home.

It will be (4600+freeDIY) vs (XREAS+dealer's labor).
 
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Steve40th396 said:
Also, instead of completely ripping our XREAS system. Maybe put a cap on the lines going into the shocks. And zip tie the lines out of the way? Its not difficult to take everything out, just a bit time consuming. Just a thought.
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Yes, it is an option for some people. But I will not do this as the line is still have oil and pressure in it, not high/danger, but to some people like me, I really want a clean/sharp result without 'possible leakage' stay there. Just my 2 cents
 
I attached 2 pictures here so when anyone do it can find official torques.

Front:
fareastplaza-albums-4runner-struts-picture62742-4runner-front-strut-components.jpg


Rear:
fareastplaza-albums-4runner-struts-picture62743-4runner-rear-strut-components.jpg
 
Bmnorm2 said:
Thank you for sharing your experience, lessons learned, and the resources you used.

I have a Limited and will likely have to do this one day, please share your thoughts on the 4600 vs XREAS (if you remember how it rode before failure)?
Click to expand...

I finally drove it on the real road (80km/h) and in a mall area with lots of speed bump. I will say the new 4600 is for sure better than a leaked X-REAS. I don't remember the old days when my X-REAS was new. But I just ride (as passenger) my friends new 4runner (2022 limited with X-REAS) few weeks ago, I didn't feel any advantage compare to 4600.

So, my personal conclusion is to replace with normal shocks like 4600 or better is the way to go. You don't need to worry about any loss at all. I don't even know why Toyota keep X-REAS system. It is not worth.
 
Fareastplaza said:
Yes, it is an option for some people. But I will not do this as the line is still have oil and pressure in it, not high/danger, but to some people like me, I really want a clean/sharp result without 'possible leakage' stay there. Just my 2 cents
Click to expand...
Understand. I would mechanically cap it off.
 
Added a 1" Cornfed spacer to the springs in the back and swapped out the shocks for 5100's Friday night and then did the front Saturday morning. Did the full 2.5" level on the front so the rear is only about 1" higher now (38 in the rear and 37 up front). I've got two floor jacks and the bottle jack so I was able to do it by myself. Didn't have to unhook any brake lines and the sway bars didn't have to be disconnected. Dropped it off at Toyota this morning, will get an alignment first thing tomorrow. Just have temporary clamps on the lines after removing the x-reas shocks, that'll be a cleanup project for next weekend along with lubing up the auto running boards.
 
Before
<a href="https://ibb.co/174wVgH"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/MZJ3Tvq/PXL-20230818-200951663.jpg" alt="PXL-20230818-200951663" border="0" /></a>
After
<a href="https://ibb.co/RBsqmCW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/b2CkZrn/PXL-20230819-191340479.jpg" alt="PXL-20230819-191340479" border="0" /></a>

Will report back on the ride when I pick it back up
 
Thanks for the helpful thread. I also have a 5th gen 4Runner Limited with XREAS suspension. Only thing I can add is that its probably a good idea to replace the top bearing assembly with a new one when replacing the front shocks.
 
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Still working on sorting the alignment. I work from home and hadn't had a chance to do much driving on the freeway. Did about 400 miles traversing Michigan last weekend and got a good feel for the new setup. Steering wheel can be slightly off center while i'm tracking straight, front wants to wander a little bit at 75 but isn't pulling. Steering feels a little lighter but not darty. Had an alignment done at the dealership 8/21. Called them yesterday and told them I never got a spec sheet after, they couldn't find one. Took it back in today and put it back up, camber at .6/.5 L/R, caster 1.4/1.7, toe .05/.05. Tech said they couldn't do anything with the caster as the cam bolts were froze and i'd need a new control arm (12ish hours at $150per). Going to a non-Toyota local shop on Saturday for a second look. I was able to break the cam bolts loose to lower the arm when i was putting the new shocks in, there's almost NO corrosion for an 8 year old truck that's lived in MI it's whole life. Does that make sense to you guys? Dude said they'd literally need a torch to cut shit out.
 
driver looking back, driver lookind forward, passenger looking back, passenger forward for reference.
<a href="https://ibb.co/hDJ0xQT"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hDJ0xQT/PXL-20230907-221930085.jpg" alt="PXL-20230907-221930085" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4j26Rc1"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/4j26Rc1/PXL-20230907-221859561.jpg" alt="PXL-20230907-221859561" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/pQDcktn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/pQDcktn/PXL-20230907-222023711.jpg" alt="PXL-20230907-222023711" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/Dzzttww"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Dzzttww/PXL-20230907-222040311.jpg" alt="PXL-20230907-222040311" border="0"></a>
 
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