Replace CV Axle or Tighten Clamp

slimjj

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As the title says, should I replace the CV axle or just get a screw type clamp and tighten it down. It's cracked a bit, but not torn that I can tell.
 

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I just tightened down mine with a hose clamp and got a lot more miles (20k) out if before she finally tore.
 
You could probably get away with cleaning and clamping. I tried normal worm drive clamps first but they cut into my boots. I rebooted mine with beck arnley boots for $11 apiece and clamped with the "marine style" worm drive clamps. They have rounded edges and haven't cut into the boots at all. Probably 20k miles on them now.
 
How did you get the old one off without tearing the boot?

Agreed, just hose clamp it. When I rebuilt my CV's I used hose clamps all around, no slips or loose clamps since then.

A good pair of side cutters and a strong grip will take that old clamp off without tearing the boot.
 
How did you get the old one off without tearing the boot?

There's one spot on the clamp where there's a crimped nub, pry that open with a flathead screwdriver then take a strong pair of sidecuts and snip it right there. That'll release most of the tension on it and you should be able to unwrap the whole clamp/unbend it and get it off.

mOUdSAQp42XB1uxbF2DqEUA.jpg
 
I had a similar problem on mine. I found that the rubber lips that seal the boot under the clamp are worn, so replacing it with a new CV clamp from Toyota is pointless since they are not really adjustable. I used a rounded edge stainless hose clamp. The groove that the clamp sits in was too narrow for the clamp, so I ground a few mm off one side with a Dremel tool and rounded it as well as I could. I haven't looked at it recently, but it's been holding for a while.

Might as well do a quick fix like clamping and reboot/replace it later rather than replacing it now. There's a lot of grease inside, so a little grease getting out or a little water getting in won't damage it for a while. I think they usually start making noise before they catastrophically fail.
 
I had a similar problem on mine. I found that the rubber lips that seal the boot under the clamp are worn, so replacing it with a new CV clamp from Toyota is pointless since they are not really adjustable. I used a rounded edge stainless hose clamp. The groove that the clamp sits in was too narrow for the clamp, so I ground a few mm off one side with a Dremel tool and rounded it as well as I could. I haven't looked at it recently, but it's been holding for a while.

Might as well do a quick fix like clamping and reboot/replace it later rather than replacing it now. There's a lot of grease inside, so a little grease getting out or a little water getting in won't damage it for a while. I think they usually start making noise before they catastrophically fail.

Anyone know the CV axle diameter? Trying to buy the right sized clamp. Found these on Amazon. 30 - 45 mm and 9mm wide.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036R4UCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
 
I didn't take it off, just put the hose clamp over the original and tightened it down. Pretty ghetto fix but it worked for a long time?



I emailed Steve at CVJ Axles and he said the axle diameter is 1.4" and the boot diameter is 1.5", so roughly 35-38mm, just in case someone else is looking for the diameter for a new clamp.


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I'm about to do this replacement this weekend. Anyone have any recommendations on the best grease to use for the inner boot? I had a bunch fling out and didn't notice the leak until after my 2k mile FL trip.
 
This

There's one spot on the clamp where there's a crimped nub, pry that open with a flathead screwdriver then take a strong pair of sidecuts and snip it right there. That'll release most of the tension on it and you should be able to unwrap the whole clamp/unbend it and get it off.

mOUdSAQp42XB1uxbF2DqEUA.jpg

Yes, use Oetiker clamps not worm gear clamps for this. You'll need Oetiker or cv boot pliers, but once they are clamped they are not coming loose.
 
Yes, use Oetiker clamps not worm gear clamps for this. You'll need Oetiker or cv boot pliers, but once they are clamped they are not coming loose.


How would you install an Oetiker clamp without removing the cv axle and boot? My thought was that Oetiker clamps can't be opened up without ruining them.

Just looking for a temporary solution to get a bit more life out of the boot before it fails.



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How would you install an Oetiker clamp without removing the cv axle and boot? My thought was that Oetiker clamps can't be opened up without ruining them.

Just looking for a temporary solution to get a bit more life out of the boot before it fails.



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Oetikers can absolutely be opened up and be installed on an intact boot. However, just go with the advice of the 3 or 4 of us on this thread and go with a hose clamp and be done with it. Run to the hardware store grab hose clamps, install, and done......its not rocket science.
 
Oetikers can absolutely be opened up and be installed on an intact boot. However, just go with the advice of the 3 or 4 of us on this thread and go with a hose clamp and be done with it. Run to the hardware store grab hose clamps, install, and done......its not rocket science.



Worm drive clamps are on their way and will get it installed. Thanks for the advise.
 
As a follow up to this subject, I just so happened to be under mine last night and saw one of my CV boots was leaking grease. I cleaned it off and found the worm drive clamp to be very loose. I tightened it and checked the other 3 clams which were all slightly loose but not leaking. This may be something to add to the list of things to check periodically so now every 5k miles: rotate tires, check brakes, check fluids, oil/filter, grease UCA's sway bars driveshaft, check CV boot clamps.
 
How would you install an Oetiker clamp without removing the cv axle and boot? My thought was that Oetiker clamps can't be opened up without ruining them.

Just looking for a temporary solution to get a bit more life out of the boot before it fails.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oetiker calls them Toothlock Ear Clamps. I used these on mine. No more seeping. There is no reason to ever open these up unless you are repairing the CV. When it's time, cut 'em with sidecutters at the ear. Much easier to cut than the OEM winding style.

Clamps, Multi Crimp Rings, Quick Connectors, tools | Oetiker
 
Oetiker calls them Toothlock Ear Clamps. I used these on mine. No more seeping. There is no reason to ever open these up unless you are repairing the CV. When it's time, cut 'em with sidecutters at the ear. Much easier to cut than the OEM winding style.

Clamps, Multi Crimp Rings, Quick Connectors, tools | Oetiker

I think he's asking how would you get the clamp onto the shaft without destroying the clamp itself or rebooting the CV axle.

Honestly I have to wonder myself. I don't see how you could "unclamp" those and slip them on the axle without rebooting (there's a strip of steel that pokes up and "locks" the metal into a loop shape). It's not like they're Stretch Earless style clamps that you can open up.
 
I think he's asking how would you get the clamp onto the shaft without destroying the clamp itself or rebooting the CV axle.

Honestly I have to wonder myself. I don't see how you could "unclamp" those and slip them on the axle without rebooting (there's a strip of steel that pokes up and "locks" the metal into a loop shape). It's not like they're Stretch Earless style clamps that you can open up.

I'm not really sure what you're asking. The ear clamps open up like a bracelet. After cutting the OEM clamps off, simply fit the Oetiker clamp over the CV boot, tightening it by hand as best you can so the teeth grab. Then use CV clamp pliers to crimp the ear. This pulls it super tight. Permanently.
 

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